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Remote Filter

fordtruckman2003

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Every oil filter hand tight and rarely need tools to get them off later but simple strap wrench is enough as needed.

If I recall correctly someone did relocate filter on a Gen 12 even though as I've mentioned it's not at all necessary. Can't speak to how much stuff they put in the way the last two generations though. It was quite simple to reach up and grab it. Spent more time cleaning up the tray under it than changing out the filter.
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Diligenthunter

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Every oil filter hand tight and rarely need tools to get them off later but simple strap wrench is enough as needed.

If I recall correctly someone did relocate filter on a Gen 12 even though as I've mentioned it's not at all necessary. Can't speak to how much stuff they put in the way the last two generations though. It was quite simple to reach up and grab it. Spent more time cleaning up the tray under it than changing out the filter.

Power boost engine under tray is awesome, perfect cut outs for the oil filter to drain, quick spray of brake clean and your done.
 
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Gros Ventre

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Every oil filter hand tight and rarely need tools to get them off later but simple strap wrench is enough as needed.

If I recall correctly someone did relocate filter on a Gen 12 even though as I've mentioned it's not at all necessary. Can't speak to how much stuff they put in the way the last two generations though. It was quite simple to reach up and grab it. Spent more time cleaning up the tray under it than changing out the filter.
Yeah, try getting s strap wrench up there... As to hand tight... not so fast.... I've found by experience they need to be tighter...
 
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Gros Ventre

Gros Ventre

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Well, the winters in Wyoming are a bit cold, so my work in relocating the filter was on hold. I have now mounted the filter adaptor to the fire wall. It is bolted to the area where the windshield wiper linkages move. There's plenty of room in there, but don't be using long bolts. Here's a couple of pictures. More to follow as I think through the routing of hoses.
Ford F-150 Remote Filter IMG_7125
Ford F-150 Remote Filter IMG_7126
 
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Gros Ventre

Gros Ventre

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I have now fit-up the engine block adapter an ENV-164 from Improvedracing.com. Looks like it'll work just fine. Have measured out the hose lengths needed. I'm going to use Custom made hoses from Improvedracing.com and use their steel braid covered hoses. Since I now understand that the Ford folks put in a two pressure oil pump I feel the steel braid is really important. I use a specialty filter from Cantonracingproducts.com and have begun noting that their filter gets damaged in-service. I suspect the issue is the suddenness of the pressure change when the higher pressure kicks in. Am thinking through using a surge suppressor of some kind. More to follow.
 
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I actually don't mind the stock location AS LONG AS THE filter isn't gorilla'ed on. I only use filters with a 1" hex on them and I hand tighten+1/4 turn (i.e. hex nut is only for getting it OFF). I travel for work, so I sometimes have to get dealers to change the oil and I've encountered several who apply he-man torque to oil filters. Honestly, the big challenge is the skid plates.
 
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Gros Ventre

Gros Ventre

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Completed the installation. Here are some pix. Chose to use armored hoses in half inch sizing. There is a space between frame members that the hose can slip thru. The block filter landing spot is far enough back from the front end stuff that the hose does not need to turn too sharply turning toward the block adapter. You will need a wrench with a shorter handle to tighten down the flare fittings at the block adapter. If you are interested in doing this, message me and I'll send you some specifics such as hose lengths, what kind of fittings, length of hoses and tips on putting it in..
Ford F-150 Remote Filter IMG_7184
Ford F-150 Remote Filter IMG_7186
 
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Gros Ventre

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Followup note: Installed a pressure gauge. Idle & low power: 38#; high power setting: 95#. Given that 95# setting... I think hand tight is pushing your luck...
 

oneinch

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If one can't agree that changing the oil filter isn't a royal PITA then they're just being argumentative. It's a PITA and takes more than 30 seconds.

@Gros Ventre I'm curious if you needed to compensate oil quantity with your remote setup? I like your thinking with stronger lines due to the high oil pressure. Safe than sorry.
 

scott011422

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Looks great!

How do you deal with drainback? Thats alot of hose to fill on every startup.
 

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Gros Ventre

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If one can't agree that changing the oil filter isn't a royal PITA then they're just being argumentative. It's a PITA and takes more than 30 seconds.

@Gros Ventre I'm curious if you needed to compensate oil quantity with your remote setup? I like your thinking with stronger lines due to the high oil pressure. Safe than sorry.
Depends on the size lines you use. I chose 1/2" (AN -08). The lines are about 60" long. The internal diameter is 0.45" so the math says (eg π*r^2*h) each line is a bit over a pint (total a quart +). Curiously, as I did the final back fill & tightening down, the feed line would not back fill, while the line return to the engine filled just fine. I infer then that the feed line with the engine pump at its other end had so little clearance that it could not back fill. Anyway, I have now chosen to keep the dipstick at its high end.
 
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Gros Ventre

Gros Ventre

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Looks great!

How do you deal with drainback? Thats alot of hose to fill on every startup.
Having put an oil pressure gauge on the engine, and backfilling the lines and filter, pressure pops right up. It continues to pop up quickly on start. I concluded that the pressure side line coming directly from the engine pump, remains full along with the filter (pump clearances are tight preventing much drainback and since the filter is now threaded end up). I also do oil analysis and see no indication of abnormal wear products in the samples.
 

FaaWrenchBndr

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You can simply hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor, crank the engine for about 10 seconds. Release the gas pedal and start engine.
 
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Gros Ventre

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You can simply hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor, crank the engine for about 10 seconds. Release the gas pedal and start engine.
That still takes a few seconds for the oil to flow up and fill the filter and lines. If you prefill the filter and lines, the system sees full pressure much more quickly.
 

FaaWrenchBndr

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That still takes a few seconds for the oil to flow up and fill the filter and lines. If you prefill the filter and lines, the system sees full pressure much more quickly.
well, yes, that’s only common sense.
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