Kicker Key install setup questions

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

Couple questions for anyone that has installed the key to the 4 door speakers. Did you unplug the factory tweeters and center channel (if you have one) before running the DSP? I also have the OEM add on kicker sub (not great but its what I have), I assume I should unplug that for the auto dsp process. I have forscan and will be trying to flatten the factory output before the DSP.

I was also wondering if anyone has decided where the most ideal place is on our trucks for mounting the key. I got the plugnplay kit on the way. I have seen under the glove box, behind the ACM and under the steering wheel. Any insight would be helpful.

Thanks!

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[Graygoose2021]

The KEY will need to be ran to 4 speakers only. So no center channel. Out puts 1 and 2, to right and left tweeter. Output 3 and 4 to midbass. Rear door speakers/sub if so equipped, must be off. The algorithm will run test to see what frequency each tweeter/mid can play, do time alignment, and set crossover points.

 

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

I want to power the door speakers with the key and leave the tweeters and center powered by ACM (obviously the sub has its own amp). I was under the assumption that is the way the plugnplay harness is configured (the 4 channels are for each door NOT the tweeters). With that said you are saying that any speakers not powered by the key need to be disabled during the DSP process?

 

[Graygoose2021]

all 4 channels must be used for the processing of the automated DSP, and yes, all other speakers must be off.(not heard)

 

[Graygoose2021]

Your in Tampa, some of the best guys are in Clearwater, have many videos installing the KEY.

https://www.fivestarcarstereofl.com/

 

[Graygoose2021]

Wtach this

If your just gonna run midbass only, find a small 2 channel amp

 

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

Wtach this

If your just gonna run midbass only, find a small 2 channel amp

How can you run 4 door speakers on a 2 channel amp?

 

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

The KEY will need to be ran to 4 speakers only. So no center channel. Out puts 1 and 2, to right and left tweeter. Output 3 and 4 to midbass. Rear door speakers/sub if so equipped, must be off. The algorithm will run test to see what frequency each tweeter/mid can play, do time alignment, and set crossover points.

I'm being told by crutchfield that the front door speakers and tweeters are on the same channel...

 

[SALEEN961]

I left my center channel unplugged after upgrading my door speakers. I have my Key 200.4 powering the rear door speakers, the front door speakers, and the front tweeters. The LF and RF channels each have a door speaker and tweeter just like the factory setup; but in my setup, the wiring from the Key 200.4 goes to a crossover before going to the speakers and tweeters. No issues with the Key Auto-EQ setup.

 

[Graygoose2021]

I'm being told by crutchfield that the front door speakers and tweeters are on the same channel...

they are, unless you want to biamp and use it independently.

 

[Graygoose2021]

How can you run 4 door speakers on a 2 channel amp?

maybe wording is confusing, above you say you want the current system to power tweeters and center channel.
anywho, Im out for a week, probably wont be online. Call the 5 Star guys, local, and can offer great advice.

 

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

maybe wording is confusing, above you say you want the current system to power tweeters and center channel.
anywho, Im out for a week, probably wont be online. Call the 5 Star guys, local, and can offer great advice.

Sorry for the confusion. My plan right now is leave the factory tweeters and center speaker (will probably unplug the center). Kicker speakers in all 4 doors. Run the kicker key in 4 channel to all 4 doors (not bi amp mode).

Additionally I just realized I made a mistake when ordering the speakers and instead of ordering two sets of 6 3/4s I ordered one set of 6 1/2 and one set of 6 3/4s. Does anyone have any input if I should return the 6 1/2s or just run what I got. Also if I run the mixed sizes which should be front and rear. I was leaning towards the smaller ones in the rear as they will have less mid bass and the sub in the back fills those gaps. Although the front channels will be sharing power with the tweeters so maybe the smaller speakers will perform better. I may be overthinking it but any opinions are welcome.

 

[Jersey devil]

I originally ordered 2 sets of 6 1/2's. One were components for the fronts, the others coaxials for the rears. Wasn't happy with the 6 1/2 components up front so returned them and bought 6x9 components, as seen in many of the 5star audio videos. They turned out to be a major upgrade.

 

[TexasTruck]

I was also wondering if anyone has decided where the most ideal place is on our trucks for mounting the key. I got the plugnplay kit on the way. I have seen under the glove box, behind the ACM and under the steering wheel. Any insight would be helpful.

I mounted my Key 200.4 up and behind the lower glove box. I also used the plug-n-play harness. I wanted access to the switches and dials on the key. You have to trim a little (1/4") off the back of the glove box to clear the key when you close it, but no big deal.....

 

[TexasTruck]

I'm being told by crutchfield that the front door speakers and tweeters are on the same channel...

My OEM basic 6 channel system A-pillar tweeters hang off the same circuit as the front door speakers. I couldn't any info on where they might Y off the circuit or do they connect to the same source as the front door speaker wires.

I installed Kicker CSS 6x9 components up front and 6-1/2 two ways in the rear doors.

Even with trying two sets of passive tweeter crossovers (Focal and MB w/-6db/0db/+6db set to -6db) I still get harsh/screeching sounds from the tweeter. I have the Forscan setting set to flat and tried with and without the Key DSP automatic settings. Source music is FLAC. I thought maybe the OEM A-pillar grill was causing the distortion, but pulled the tweeters out, tested, same result. I'm wondering about what @Graygoose2021 mentioned about bi-amping now.... Run new tweeter wires over to the Key, unpin the rear door speakers from the plug-n-play harness and let the OEM system power them. That will give me more control over the tweeters and/or let the Key DSP figure it out.

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