Brand new PB won’t start

[richardrocks]

Since taking it to the dealer, I’ve been following advice from this thread and firing up the ICE after parking it and waiting 30 seconds for it to power off. So far, so good. Haven’t gotten a Deep Sleep message, yet. Previously I was obsessed with cruising home in EV as much as possible.

Also, I will never, ever leave home without a wrench in case I ever need to disconnect the battery for 10 min again. The error message I got didn’t even mention a battery / charge issue

Sponsored

 

[HammaMan]

Since taking it to the dealer, I’ve been following advice from this thread and firing up the ICE after parking it and waiting 30 seconds for it to power off. So far, so good. Haven’t gotten a Deep Sleep message, yet. Previously I was obsessed with cruising home in EV as much as possible.

Also, I will never, ever leave home without a wrench in case I ever need to disconnect the battery for 10 min again. The error message I got didn’t even mention a battery / charge issue

You can just turn the dial over to tow mode for the last half mile and it won't shut off until you completely stop.

 

[richardrocks]

You can just turn the dial over to tow mode for the last half mile and it won't shut off until you completely stop.

That, too!

Ford, are you out there listening to this ridiculousness?

I also find it odd that the ICE doesn’t fire up right away upon cold start. Once I’m in motion it fires and RPMs spike, which means the ICE literally doesn’t have one second to warm up. I usually idle my cars 20 - 30 seconds (not minutes like some!) but maybe that’s a thing of the past. I don’t think that the manual mentions anything about warming up an engine on a really cold day.

 

[HammaMan]

That, too!

Ford, are you out there listening to this ridiculousness?

I also find it odd that the ICE doesn’t fire up right away upon cold start. Once I’m in motion it fires and RPMs spike, which means the ICE literally doesn’t have one second to warm up. I usually idle my cars 20 - 30 seconds (not minutes like some!) but maybe that’s a thing of the past. I don’t think that the manual mentions anything about warming up an engine on a really cold day.

Yep. That alone is why I bought an EV. You don't just hop in a vehicle and rev away. They need to enable START ICE when remote start is used. You hear us @Ford Motor Company bot human? At least make it an option in screen like what to do with the climate.

"On remote start"
o Start combustion engine
o Prepare cabin

See how easy those options are!?

 

[richardrocks]

Update: I run my ICE the last stretch to my garage each night and merely opening the doors and loading my car in the morning before taking off puts the thing into deep sleep... every day. It’s been starting, thankfully, but no way in hell am I taking this thing anywhere remote for a while.

Also, while backing up, the cam blacked out and after 20 seconds I got the “75 years” logo… it’s like the system rebooted.

I’m not willing to put a brand new vehicle that’s driven daily on a charger.

 

[HammaMan]

Yeah, the AGM just isn't a good fit here. I've watched the voltage jump to 15.2v and the 12v batt would be barely registering 1 or 2 amps of charge when in the upper 70% SOC range. Keep in mind @richardrocks the truck is doing what it's supposed to by sleeping its modules. The problem is that the threshold is too easy to reach. You're not at risk of a no-start as it's doing its job. It just doesn't have enough reserve energy on-hand to run additional things long. I've found on remote start that the battery doesn't even charge -- now this could be due to the LFP I've installed, but when I get in and turn the key to on, DC generation does come alive.

The truck is a perfect candidate for LFP inside the cab at least, designed in a manner that takes the chemistry's limitations in mind. I'm working on a hands-free solution for mine (it's no longer going below freezing for extended periods so it's fine as is right now), it's going to require buying a run of BMS's likely with my own logic, or designing an external controller one to basically heat the batt up to the 45c area when cold climate is detected. The reason for heating the batt up is to basically retain its heat for days between engine starts without having to use its heater ( won't allow charging to occur below freezing and energy output stops at -4f).

That's easy for the negative side of things which connects to a BMS, but the positive lead which attaches directly to a cell is pure copper. Pure copper is great for moving heat. In cold climates it'd slowly be pulling heat from the batt because it's cold outside of it. I have a potential solution since heat doesn't really migrate that far down a cable. I'm trying to source cells that'd allow a drop-in replacement inside of the little batt box. Based on the data I've collected so far, someone who drives to work and comes home with 4 truck wakeups shouldn't be puling more than 5ah from the time they get home until the time they leave for work the next day. Given the truck has a ~95ah batt under hood and a 7ah aux batt in the back, that's just not acceptable behavior from the stock configuration.

It's especially annoying when you go to get in the truck to go somewhere and that triggers sync to go to sleep -- really dumb logic @Ford Motor Company. Just a couple lines of code telling sync to not sleep for 60 seconds against its voltage threshold when the vehicle responds to a wakeup via key or door opening would stop that.

 

[GenXGeekDad]

This just happened to me today. Nothing would get it to start..all things tried in this thread. Drove it this morning , where it was wet and a bit snowy outside. Came home, 6 hours later, would not start.

Then, while on the phone with the dealer service guy, I tried again, truck started up, with READY light all lit up. They are still going to send guys over tomorrow to pick it up ; get it to their service dept to see if they can find anything. Will post an update here, IF they find anything...

Details: 2023 Platinum Powerboost. 619 miles on the OD; bought it 3/10 off the lot w/63 miles on it.

 

[richardrocks]

This just happened to me today. Nothing would get it to start..all things tried in this thread. Drove it this morning , where it was wet and a bit snowy outside. Came home, 6 hours later, would not start.

Then, while on the phone with the dealer service guy, I tried again, truck started up, with READY light all lit up. They are still going to send guys over tomorrow to pick it up ; get it to their service dept to see if they can find anything. Will post an update here, IF they find anything...

Details: 2023 Platinum Powerboost. 619 miles on the OD; bought it 3/10 off the lot w/63 miles on it.

Wow. Same here. And you tried pulling the main battery cable for 10 min and trying again? Mine, too, is brand new. What’s up with this batch of vehicles?

 

[GenXGeekDad]

Wow. Same here. And you tried pulling the main battery cable for 10 min and trying again? Mine, too, is brand new. What’s up with this batch of vehicles?

Not sure, build date on mine is 12/5/2022.. Hopefully dealer will have more info. Never pulled battery cables...just 'fixed itself'.

 

[GenXGeekDad]

Sorry, meant to update yesterday. Dealer picked up the truck from my house , nice valet service.

Had the truck for 5 hours, put 35 miles on it, and found nothing. No TSBs , no codes , nothing. Could not reproduce the issue.

Guess we are chalking it up to a one time event. Dealer was very cool about about, even returned the truck the house; valet return service.

Guess we'll wait and see...

 

[GenXGeekDad]

Hey...I'm back!!! Guess what! Same thing happened again today . 2330 miles on the 2023 PB. Same exact issue.

Tried/failed to start the truck , close to a dozen times. Remote start from fob and from app all failed. Fob remote start actually showed red light on top of the fob.

No codes, just the same message on the screen "Stop Safely Soon" and no 'READY" light. All other accessory power items were running just fine.

So, This time, I checked the 12v. Figured I'd try to loosen the negative cable. Then re-tightened it. Ready light came back on the very next startup. I will say that when I first loosened the negative terminal, it wasn't very hard to loosen. Maybe it was not tight enough from factory.

Either way, we'll see if it does this again after another 45 days...or 1700 miles..

 

[marekjk]

Hey...I'm back!!! Guess what! Same thing happened again today . 2330 miles on the 2023 PB. Same exact issue.

Tried/failed to start the truck , close to a dozen times. Remote start from fob and from app all failed. Fob remote start actually showed red light on top of the fob.

No codes, just the same message on the screen "Stop Safely Soon" and no 'READY" light. All other accessory power items were running just fine.

So, This time, I checked the 12v. Figured I'd try to loosen the negative cable. Then re-tightened it. Ready light came back on the very next startup. I will say that when I first loosened the negative terminal, it wasn't very hard to loosen. Maybe it was not tight enough from factory.

Either way, we'll see if it does this again after another 45 days...or 1700 miles..

I’ve had this EXACT thing happen to me twice on my 23 Lariat PB with only 2700 miles in the odometer.

I’m not sure that unhooking the 12v battery actually does anything as all the electronic gizmos end up running off of the 12v auxiliary battery behind the back seat. Check it out, unhook your under-the-hood 12v and open your doors…. Cabin lights and Ford Sync will all come on as usual.

In my case, unhooking the battery didn’t work. I tried unhooking battery, locking and unlocking truck, locking and walking away a couple min til everything shut off, starting from FOB, remote start….. just a bunch of random combinations of things.

I walked away for 10 minutes completely enraged while my three kids were screaming and whining about going to school and daycare. I came back 10 min later and just decided to try remote start and it worked. That is after stranding me for 2 hours.

I purchased a Bluetooth battery monitor that Snakebitten recommended and keep track of the batteries charge. I also monitor the charge of the Hybrid battery pack using the OBDLink MX+. It’s kind of fun to monitor this stuff for me so I don’t mind.

I will admit that my 2018 Lariat was much easier to take care of and never stranded me for hours like my new PowerBoost has.

 

[Snakebitten]

Sorry for influencing you to geeking.
But you gotta admit that it just feels better KNOWING what is going on, even if it doesn't prevent something from throwing an alert or acting haywire.

If nothing else, you will become one with what's "normal", so you will definitely notice anything that's not.

Since you did grab the Bluetooth battery monitor, is the truck keeping the static voltage above ~12.3?

 

[Davexxxx]

Battery charger. Driving doesn't do much to charge them. It's why I've put the LFP aux batt in mine. Got tired of the flaws the AGM has.

Have you written that up yet? Cause I'm interested.

 

[Snakebitten]

I think he's still in beta stage until he is happy with a lithium battery management solution.

Sponsored