Pro Power Onboard Generator 7.2K Powering a Trailer While Driving -- IT WORKS!

[turbopilot]

I will be pulling a travel trailer with 50 amp service and also a refrigerated cargo trailer with farm produce.

You can pull but the Ford is only going to give you 30 amps per leg so no need for a 50 amp cable.

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[hedge]

Had this thread saved until I got my powerboost, it's given me a number of ideas. My plan is to run a 12 gauge cable and use the 20a connection. The waterproof connectors are much cheaper.

I can get away with this because I have a Victron Multiplus in my trailer that has an assist function. I can set the multiplus to only draw a maximum of 20a and then it adds the rest from battery power (I have 400ah of Li battery). This works for me as I don't continuously draw 30a, only for short periods. Normally I never go over 12a, I can run everything including a/c in my trailer of a normal 12 gauge extension cord (not at the same time).

I'm pretty sure I'll be installing using a transfer switch so I can plug in the factory cable or the truck cable.

 

[hcforde]

My 2023 XLT PowerBoost is here . I will pick it up on Friday.

I have a number of 24V 1.7 kvh Lithium-Ion batteries at my disposal in pristine condition.

I will be picking the brains of forum members on how best to set them up.

 

[hedge]

My 2023 XLT PowerBoost is here . I will pick it up on Friday.

I have a number of 24V 1.7 kvh Lithium-Ion batteries at my disposal in pristine condition.

I will be picking the brains of forum members on how best to set them up.

Are they Lithium-ion or Lithium iron phosphate? the latter is usually used in trailers as they have a safer chemistry.... but Li-ion is also used as an umbrella term to describe any Li battery so it all can get pretty confusing.

 

[HammaMan]

Had this thread saved until I got my powerboost, it's given me a number of ideas. My plan is to run a 12 gauge cable and use the 20a connection. The waterproof connectors are much cheaper.

I can get away with this because I have a Victron Multiplus in my trailer that has an assist function. I can set the multiplus to only draw a maximum of 20a and then it adds the rest from battery power (I have 400ah of Li battery). This works for me as I don't continuously draw 30a, only for short periods. Normally I never go over 12a, I can run everything including a/c in my trailer of a normal 12 gauge extension cord (not at the same time).

I'm pretty sure I'll be installing using a transfer switch so I can plug in the factory cable or the truck cable.

In this case de-rate to 17 amps max (14 if you don't have a 20a plug, most are only 15a, need a sideways blade for 20a). That victron will charge its batteries and run house loads. It could pull that current for many hours sustained which requires a de-rate just like EV.

Better off feeding it 240v if it can take it, or use 1 leg of the 30a plug at 25a / 120v if it supports it. Don't worry about plugs, just plug it directly into the truck w/ no jumpers or extension cords.

 

[EricR]

My 2023 XLT PowerBoost is here . I will pick it up on Friday.

I have a number of 24V 1.7 kvh Lithium-Ion batteries at my disposal in pristine condition.

I will be picking the brains of forum members on how best to set them up.

Will Prouse's website was helpful in my overall understanding of lithium power systems:

https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/​

This site (which I think Will started) proved very helpful. I was able to learn more, see systems others were designing, get questions answered, get feedback on my preliminary designs (there were many), as well as a safety review of my system.

https://diysolarforum.com/forums/vehicle-mounted-systems.7/​

And of course, I will answer questions you may have to the extent of my knowledge.

-Eric

 

[EricR]

Had this thread saved until I got my powerboost, it's given me a number of ideas. My plan is to run a 12 gauge cable and use the 20a connection. The waterproof connectors are much cheaper.

I can get away with this because I have a Victron Multiplus in my trailer that has an assist function. I can set the multiplus to only draw a maximum of 20a and then it adds the rest from battery power (I have 400ah of Li battery). This works for me as I don't continuously draw 30a, only for short periods. Normally I never go over 12a, I can run everything including a/c in my trailer of a normal 12 gauge extension cord (not at the same time).

I'm pretty sure I'll be installing using a transfer switch so I can plug in the factory cable or the truck cable.

Nice!

Please share a link to the 20A waterproof connectors you found, as this could be a good alternative for others with set-ups similar to yours. Also, if you are so inclined, a write-up of your set-up once it is done would be nice, too.

How much does the Multiplus draw when charging?

What you are doing makes sense as you already own the Multiplus. Before we bought our Powerboost I was seriously considering a Multiplus, as well. Once we bought the PB I decided to not put a charger/inverter in the trailer - as the PPoB would be our inverter. This allowed me to install just a charger (a nice savings over the Multiplus).

For others more than you, Hedge:
My initial designs had a transfer switch as well. One input being the original 30A RV park connection on the side of the trailer and the other input being the new 30A connector I put on the trailer tongue (that the PPoB feeds). Then it dawned on me that I could use the new 30A connector on the trailer tongue for both.

1. RV Park power to the front connector when at an RV park.
2. PPoB to the to the front connector when we are towing or boondocking (aka dry camping).

Thus, no transfer switch needed! This was nice as I was struggling to find a good place to put it.

I guess this an advantage of using 30A wire & connectors. Just to be safe I disconnected the original 30A RV park power connection from the trailer electrical system.

 

[hedge]

I already had the Multiplus before I even considered a powerboost so I think my situation is pretty specific. It's an amazing device and now that I have it I'd probably have one even with the powerboost as I don't necessarily always want the truck connected, or if someone stays behind and the truck isn't there we can still run everything.

I haven't actually built anything as it's still snowed in up here in Canada. That's also the reason I have more trouble finding the parts. If I could find them I would probably do it the same way you did. I found the connectors on Amazon, Leviton wetguard same as your parts list.

Not entirely sure what the amp draw is, so many variables according to what the charge rate is set at, the other loads at the time, solar output, the input current limit etc. I'll have to wait until I have everything home in the spring to do that kind of testing.

I'm still kind of undecided on the transfer switch, I could do it without it but for the minimal expense I'm not sure I see a lot of downsides to adding it. I've done so much wiring in my trailer that I'm pretty comfortable with it. Currently shore power goes into factory spot but then goes to an EMS then on to the Multiplus and then finally back to the factory converter.

Haven't built/installed anything yet so my plan could change 10 times by then as it usually does.

 

[EricR]

I already had the Multiplus before I even considered a powerboost so I think my situation is pretty specific. It's an amazing device and now that I have it I'd probably have one even with the powerboost as I don't necessarily always want the truck connected, or if someone stays behind and the truck isn't there we can still run everything.

I haven't actually built anything as it's still snowed in up here in Canada. That's also the reason I have more trouble finding the parts. If I could find them I would probably do it the same way you did. I found the connectors on Amazon, Leviton wetguard same as your parts list.

Not entirely sure what the amp draw is, so many variables according to what the charge rate is set at, the other loads at the time, solar output, the input current limit etc. I'll have to wait until I have everything home in the spring to do that kind of testing.

I'm still kind of undecided on the transfer switch, I could do it without it but for the minimal expense I'm not sure I see a lot of downsides to adding it. I've done so much wiring in my trailer that I'm pretty comfortable with it. Currently shore power goes into factory spot but then goes to an EMS then on to the Multiplus and then finally back to the factory converter.

Haven't built/installed anything yet so my plan could change 10 times by then as it usually does.

It sounds like you have this well under control!

Since you have the Multiplus you could bypass the factory converter completely. With the MP charging the batteries the only thing the converter is doing is providing 12V to the DC power/fuse panel. I chose to disconnect the converter from the DC panel and power it directly from the batteries instead. From what I have read converters are a somewhat common point of failure that I wanted to eliminate.

 

[hedge]

It sounds like you have this well under control!

Since you have the Multiplus you could bypass the factory converter completely. With the MP charging the batteries the only thing the converter is doing is providing 12V to the DC power/fuse panel. I chose to disconnect the converter from the DC panel and power it directly from the batteries instead. From what I have read converters are a somewhat common point of failure that I wanted to eliminate.

Yeah, I guess I didn't mention that but the 'converter' of the power center is disconnected from the breaker so all I use the power center for is distribution.

 

[HammaMan]

Will Prouse's website was helpful in my overall understanding of lithium power systems:

https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/​

This site (which I think Will started) proved very helpful. I was able to learn more, see systems others were designing, get questions answered, get feedback on my preliminary designs (there were many), as well as a safety review of my system.

https://diysolarforum.com/forums/vehicle-mounted-systems.7/​

And of course, I will answer questions you may have to the extent of my knowledge.

-Eric

Lots of resources there, just watch out for being steered to one product over another due to royalties. You can end up over-paying for something due to only being allowed to link to vendors in which Will gets a kickback. Great place to learn, but don't assume it's an all encompassing source. The forum has gotten a little stricter with the economy constriction.

 

[Stroodle96]

I have also configured my 2021 PowerBoost with 7.2 kw ProPower Onboard to provide full electrical power to an Airstream trailer while in motion. This from my post on the Airstream forum.

Now on the home stretch of this Electric GlobeTrotter conversion. For the last few weeks I have been researching the feasibility of towing the GT with full 7.2kw electricity available to the trailer. The main concern I had was maintaining a water proof connection from the F-150 inverter back to the trailer. Since the only access to the 110 volt system was via the 50 amp connector on the aft driver's side of the trailer it was clear a second connection was needed to feed the F-150 ProPower output to the Victron MultiPlus in the trailer.

My solution was to run a 4 wire, 30 amp cable from the front hitch back to a Progressive Dynamics PD52V Transfer Switch near the 50 amp plug input.

At the hitch the 30 amp cable joined with the 7 pin connector then over to connect with the truck. The F-150 ProPower Panel is on the driver's side aft bed wall which is not a convenient place to hook up the 30 amp cable while under power. I found an existing hole in the bed that was larger than the 30 amp cable so I was able pass the cable down the bed support behind the rear bumper.

To make the connection between the trailer and the truck I sourced waterproof NEMA L14-30 connectors (Molex Woodhead 28W74 and 29W74. These connectors are not easy to find.

Here is how it looks with all three cables from the trailer plugged into the F-150 PowerBoost. Ran some tests cycling through AC sources in the trailer and all seems to work. The 30 amp cable is about the same diameter as the 7 pin cable. I have some extra cable coiled up on the hitch so that I can park the F-150 away from the trailer while camping but still maintain a connection to the truck.

I know its been a while. But where did you source your woodhead connectors at? I can only find them at a few specialty sites and they want over $100 for each.

 

[turbopilot]

I know its been a while. But where did you source your woodhead connectors at? I can only find them at a few specialty sites and they want over $100 for each.

They are hard to find and expensive. Here is the male plug on Amazon. Can't remember where I found the female end.

 

[Stroodle96]

I have also configured my 2021 PowerBoost with 7.2 kw ProPower Onboard to provide full electrical power to an Airstream trailer while in motion. This from my post on the Airstream forum.

Now on the home stretch of this Electric GlobeTrotter conversion. For the last few weeks I have been researching the feasibility of towing the GT with full 7.2kw electricity available to the trailer. The main concern I had was maintaining a water proof connection from the F-150 inverter back to the trailer. Since the only access to the 110 volt system was via the 50 amp connector on the aft driver's side of the trailer it was clear a second connection was needed to feed the F-150 ProPower output to the Victron MultiPlus in the trailer.

My solution was to run a 4 wire, 30 amp cable from the front hitch back to a Progressive Dynamics PD52V Transfer Switch near the 50 amp plug input.

At the hitch the 30 amp cable joined with the 7 pin connector then over to connect with the truck. The F-150 ProPower Panel is on the driver's side aft bed wall which is not a convenient place to hook up the 30 amp cable while under power. I found an existing hole in the bed that was larger than the 30 amp cable so I was able pass the cable down the bed support behind the rear bumper.

To make the connection between the trailer and the truck I sourced waterproof NEMA L14-30 connectors (Molex Woodhead 28W74 and 29W74. These connectors are not easy to find.

Here is how it looks with all three cables from the trailer plugged into the F-150 PowerBoost. Ran some tests cycling through AC sources in the trailer and all seems to work. The 30 amp cable is about the same diameter as the 7 pin cable. I have some extra cable coiled up on the hitch so that I can park the F-150 away from the trailer while camping but still maintain a connection to the truck.

Hello,
I am at the point where I need to mount the waterproof female plug near the hitch on my truck.
It looks like you used big zip ties and secured it around the hitch bar??
Has this held up well for you? I'm trying to figure out a good way to secure it, without having to drill holes on anything.

 

[Big Smokey]

Thanks for the information!

Do you use an electrical EMS to safe guard the trailer components?

Does anyone have any experience with Progressive Industry’s hardwired unit ands the PPoB?

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