kishorejoseph
Well-known member
- First Name
- Kishore
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2023
- Threads
- 5
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- 51
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- 23
- Location
- Herndon, VA
- Vehicles
- 2021 Ford F150 Limited
- Thread starter
- #31
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Stick-on wheel weights come in several different weights, but 0.25oz weights are the most common. If you have 30 of those on a wheel, that is a lot of weight. On the 28"-34" tires I frequently deal with, it is rare to have more than 3oz on a single wheel, most wheels are properly balanced with less than 1.5oz of weight.Yeah, 30 or so individual but stuck on together in like 2 rows.
that seems like an awful lot of weight to me, but I’m not really an expert. Just someone who tried to get wheels and tires balanced in the past only to find out two of the wheels were bentYeah, 30 or so individual but stuck on together in like 2 rows.
Yes I measured 0.6 up so the 1.5 shim would correct that. I’m going to see if I can find a shop to confirm this as well.I normally aim for having the rear diff nose down 1° from perfectly even operating angles when measuring the driveline at rest and it sounds like your pinion is 0.6° nose up, correct?
The idea behind putting the pinion 1° nose down is that as the pinion climbs up under load the angles should be close to even.
If I'm interpreting your measurements correctly and your pinion is slightly nose high, you could improve the angles by getting a 1.5° shim to set your resting u-joints angles to roughly 7.4° at the pinion and 6.6° at the transfer case output.
If you have someone you really trust, you can measure the angles again while your truck is running in gear. Have your helper load your driveline by hitting the throttle and brake at the same time to simulate the load your driveline would see at 70-80mph, 1500RPM in drive should be a good target for this. This will help you by showing exactly how much your pinion climbs under load with your aftermarket leaf springs.
That looks like a crap load of weight
Back to the tire shop then I guess…? Who can I take it to so they can check if the wheels are bent?That looks like a crap load of weight
They should pull the tire off the worst one, then measure horizontal and vertical runout. That will tell a lot.Back to the tire shop then I guess…? Who can I take it to so they can check if the wheels are bent?
So went back to check on this this morning. I couldn’t confirm that wheels are hubcentric since the center cap essentially sits on the hub, acting as a centering ring? I then read up on lug centric wheels and got some lug centering bolts. They’ve taken a good bit of the vibration away. I got it back on the road and now I notice the vibration exactly between 75-80mph. It seems the vibration is stronger when the engine is under load (as apposed to going downhill at that speed). Engine under load at other speeds is pretty smooth. No load at 75mph is 1/4 the vibration as it is under load.Are the wheels your using hub centric or are you using the plastic centering spacers? I ask this because the plastic centering rings wear out and have a tendency to leave the wheel in a position slightly out of concentricity to the hub. Thus causing in inbalance at speed even though the wheel / tire assembly is balanced perfectly,
Not completely, but I did get some of it taken care of with lug centric bolts for my aftermarket wheels. I have method wheels and I was using method spline lug nuts initially.you ever get a fix to this? are you experiencing steering wheel shimmy/shake also at highway speeds?
A few options here, U-joints, driveshaft, or bad tire. That is a lot of weight but not too much imo, my STX with the factory 20’s came with almost that much weight straight from the factory. I can take a pic. There is like 12 weights lol.Back to the tire shop then I guess…? Who can I take it to so they can check if the wheels are bent?