USB-c PD super fast charging ports added to center console.

[Underwhere]

My usb-c ports in my 25 Lariat 502 can't keep up charging my phone.

With GPS on, the truck is slowly draining my phone.

It's crazy to think that Ford did not put more powerful usb ports.

I could use a cigarette lighter adapter... But don't really want am adapter with wiring hanging out in the front screen area.

Has anyone installed an aftermarket USB PD connectors?

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[mattso33]

I have a similar issue and was wishing I could swap out the one in the console with a cigarette port. I wasn’t able to find anything but hopefully some has a fix!

 

[Underwhere]

I'm going to do it.

I did some exploring today.
If you follow this video from 0:50 to 2:50 you can remove all the trim to access the bottom of the console area to remove the existing usb-c sockets.




You will need to reach your hand down and squeeze the sides of the assembly inwards to allow the assembly to pass through the hole.

What you are left with:
A 1 inch hole
Plenty of space under the factory socket to put a new one.
Easy access to run a wire to the fuse panel.

I have an add-a circuit arriving tomorrow.
I have a new usb-c plug with 2 USB-C PD that is supposed to run at 30W each and a USB-A that supposedly runs at 18W.
I wasn't able to find a new one that is 1 inch.


The plan:
Unplug the old. Leave the plug under the console never to be used again.

The new assembly is 30mm so I'll need to open up the hole a bit.

Run a wire to the fuse panel on switched ignition.

I will take pics to document.

 

[Underwhere]

I received the new USB port.
It comes with an inline 10 amp fuse.

But I believe the factory fuses for the usb outlets are 10 amp.

So now I'm wondering whether I just cut into the factory wiring.

If it's all 10 amp, the wiring should be fine and I don't need to run extra wire and mess with the fuse box.

Considering it.

 

[The Gray Manalishi]

Why not just run a dedicated 12 ga circuit to a new USB C outlet?

 

[Underwhere]

Why not just run a dedicated 12 ga circuit to a new USB C outlet?

My thoughts:

If the factory usb outlet is the only thing on the circuit and it's already a 10 amp circuit then I'm just swapping out the outlet.

Why run a new 10 amp circuit and leave a dead 10 amp circuit.

I would probably tap into the old USB fuse anyway. So I don't think I'd accomplish anything by running new wires.

 

[Underwhere]

Note on my 25 502 Lariat

Fuse 30 (usb charging port 1) powers the inner console and rear console ports

Fuse 101 (USB charging port 3) does not seem to affect any USB charging ports.

I can't find the fuse that controls the USB outlet under the dash. It isn't the 7.5 amp wireless charger fuse.

 

[Buyer2021]

If it's all 10 amp, the wiring should be fine and I don't need to run extra wire and mess with the fuse box.

In spite of Ford's fuse selection, I suggest you consider the ampacity of the OE 22AWG wires to the OE USB charging port. The ampacity of 22 AWG copper wire is rated at 7 amps in free air and up to 5 amps either enclosed or in a bundle (i.e. a wiring harness).

Some PD C-compliant devices can actually impose close to 10A load when connected to a PD C port, whereas, as Ford knows, they will not come close to pulling that load when connected to a non-PD C port like the OE in our trucks.

Personally, if going to the trouble to install a PD C port, I'd want the wiring to be very conservatively sized for both safety and assured delivery of the port's full capability.

Just for your consideration,

 

[Underwhere]

In spite of Ford's fuse selection, I suggest you consider the ampacity of the 22AWG wires to the OE USB charging port.

Some PD C-compliant devises can actually impose close to 10A load when connected to a PD C port, whereas they will not come close to that when connected to a non-PD C port like the OE in our trucks.

Personally, if going to the trouble to install a PD C port, I'd want the wiring to be very conservatively sized for both safety and assured delivery of the port's full capability.

Just for your consideration,

I appreciate that.

I think I will take your advice.

Any suggestions on which fuse to tap?

I am always weary of adding another circuit on top of an existing circuit.

If Ford uses tiny wires, I'm just going to heat them up even more... Just not from the fuse box to the device but rather before the fuse box.

 

[Buyer2021]

Any suggestions on which fuse to tap?

Nope, I'm not familiar with 2025 fuse arrangements specifically.

If Ford uses tiny wires, I'm just going to heat them up even more... Just not from the fuse box to the device but rather before the fuse box.

I don't think you need to worry about that, fuse boxes typically have feeds and internal busses with generous ampacity. The 'ampacity step-down' typically occurs starting at each branch circuit's fuse. That's why using an 'add-a-fuse' to double-up fuses in one fuse-box slot is generally not a problem.

I would be attentive to the rating of whatever 'add-a-fuse' device you use, some of those are rated under 10A (or even worse, some no-name brands have no stated ampacity rating - caveat emptor, pay more for reputable brands if you care about your truck!).

 

[Underwhere]

Added tonight.
As it turns out the factory hole is the same size as the aftermarket part. I just needed to cut off the 2 indexing pieces with a blade.

I used fuse 101 which is USB Charging Port 3.
The add-a-circuit is too thick to fully close the fuse panel cover. I'm not too concerned. It's behind the passenger kick panel.

My add-a-circuit is supposedly rated to 30 amps and is 14g which is certainly overkill. I extended some wires with 16g.

It was interesting finding a good ground.

But now my phone says it is "super fast charging"

 

[Underwhere]

In retrospect I probably should have used 14g just to be super careful.

The wire lenth is very short and I will seldom have 2 devices connected. So 16g should still be fine. I'm not going to go back and re-wire

 

[Buyer2021]

Looks good, but the 11.9V indicated seems a bit low .... any idea how the voltage measured at the battery (or at the fuse in the fuse box) compares to the voltage indicated at the port?

 

[Underwhere]

164881[/ATTACH]ost: 743024, member: 1766"]
Looks good, but the 11.9V indicated seems a bit low .... any idea how the voltage measured at the battery (or at the fuse in the fuse box) compares to the voltage indicated at the port?

The truck was off at the time the picture was taken so the alternator was not running. I'm assuming that is the reason.

Edit - Pic with truck running

 

[FirstFord]

Nice job, @Underwhere , and I'll admit that you have me thinking about it, because I experience the same issues (the energy draw from the phone is greater than what is replenished). It looks like this may be the port that you chose. If so, could you give me an idea of what the O.D. is of the face / head? (Of the dimensions supplied by the vendor, it doesn't give that dimension.) I've got an idea of retaining the OEM power port, and adding the USB-C PD port as an extra port altogether - if it will fit. I've still got one or two old-school accessories that use the traditional cigarette lighter plug, so I'd like to keep that power port. I reason that if I'm going to have to run an additional wire anyway, why not just add the PD port as an addition instead of a substitution.

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