Truck Going In To Sleep Mode? Interior Unlock Button Unresponsive

[YJay90]

Anyone experience their Lock/Unlock Buttons on Inside of Door being Unresponsive and not working? Happened to me a few times - I think I've had the DS door open for an extended period every time it happened. I'd then have to use the key fob to unlock the doors and then the door mounted switches would work again. Even though the door was open for +/- 20 minutes, I had the interior lights switched off and the battery was holding 12.1-12.3 volts.

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[Buyer2021]

the battery was holding 12.1-12.3 volts

Just FYI both battery volts and battery SOC can affect feature functions.

I've experienced volts above 12 while SOC was below 70% which limited some feature functions. OBDMX+ can monitor / report both.

Frequent but short trips combined with low temperatures caused my issue, the 'cure' was either a good long highway drive or a long session on the NOCO 10 charger to bring up the SOC.

 

[JCsTruck]

Charged mine for over an hour today at 10 amps. ?. Lots of short drives and sitting for days without driving it.

 

[Kanuck]

Anyone experience their Lock/Unlock Buttons on Inside of Door being Unresponsive and not working? Happened to me a few times - I think I've had the DS door open for an extended period every time it happened. I'd then have to use the key fob to unlock the doors and then the door mounted switches would work again. Even though the door was open for +/- 20 minutes, I had the interior lights switched off and the battery was holding 12.1-12.3 volts.

Is it possible that the battery discharging timer ( radio on for more than 30 min) ran down and shut the truck down to save battery so truck will start.

 

[Buyer2021]

Where in OBDLink can I find those settings to check them.

First, you must install the free Ford extension for the OBD Link App, then ....

1. From the menu (upper right corner) when your dashboard is displayed, pick "add display"
2. After picking display type and style, on the screen with "title", pick PID>
3. There will be a search box at the top of the screen (Select PIDs) that opens

• Enter "battery voltage" (exact text, without quotes) in the Select PIDs search box and click search
• choose Ford, Lincoln, Mercury
• choose Body Control Module
• choose "Battery Voltage"

For SOC, the same steps 1-3

• Enter "state of charge" (exact text, without quotes) in the Select PIDs search box and click search
• choose Ford, Lincoln, Mercury
• choose Body Control Module
• choose "Vehicle Battery - State of Charge"

Note you can add displays in the app without being connected to your truck.

Hope that helps, Have Fun!

 

[Bobcatou]

First, you must install the free Ford extension for the OBD Link App, then ....

1. From the menu (upper right corner) when your dashboard is displayed, pick "add display"
2. After picking display type and style, on the screen with "title", pick PID>
3. There will be a search box at the top of the screen (Select PIDs) that opens

• Enter "battery voltage" (exact text, without quotes) in the Select PIDs search box and click search
• choose Ford, Lincoln, Mercury
• choose Body Control Module
• choose "Battery Voltage" (that's the first one)

For the second, the same steps 1-3

• Enter "state of charge" (exact text, without quotes) in the Select PIDs search box and click search
• choose Ford, Lincoln, Mercury
• choose Body Control Module
• choose "Vehicle Battery - State of Charge"

Note you can add displays in the app without being connected to your truck.

Hope that helps, Have Fun!

Thanks a bunch for taking the time. I appreciate it.

 

[Buyer2021]

Thanks a bunch for taking the time. I appreciate it.

No worries!

BTW, I'm running the app on an iPhone and iPad, assuming / hoping it'll be the same on android devices.

 

[Bobcatou]

No worries!

BTW, I'm running the app on an iPhone and iPad, assuming / hoping it'll be the same on android devices.

I'm running both Iphone/Ipad too. I'm trying to come up with a solution to the "save battery" screen that keeps popping up. I have only had my truck 9 months, but I don't want to go to Ford just yet to deal with it. I fear if they find nothing wrong, I will be dinged for a diagnostic fee. I'm looking to see how low the battery gets before it happens. I figure I will run a log.

My latest idea is putting a full charge on the battery and resetting the BMS through Forscan Light.

I got the screen set. Thanks again.

 

[Buyer2021]

and resetting the BMS through Forscan Light.

I urge you to not reset the BMS by whatever means.

The Ford Workshop Manual is explicit in saying the BMS should only be reset when the battery is replaced with a new battery. That procedure resets the battery age parameter in the charging algorithm to zero, which bears on the long-term algorithm behavior (the battery age parameter is stored in non-volatile memory so it is retained even if the battery is disconnected for whatever reason / duration and then reinstalled, as might occur when doing a lengthy unrelated repair procedure).

Resetting the BMS is not a recommended action found in any of the Workshop Manual charging system troubleshooting procedures.

I strongly suggest you put the battery on a proper AGM charger (e.g. Noco 10) to bring up the SOC and see how things go from there. Your system is likely set with a default target SOC of 80%.

FYI it took ~30 hours for a Noco 10 to bring my H8 battery from ~70% up to 100% SOC. Since doing that my truck has had no problem keeping the SOC at or near 90%, which is the revised target SOC I set with FORScan (PC version). Noting that frequent short trips do pull that SOC down, but it recovers with a good highway drive.

Just for your consideration, Good Luck!

 

[Bobcatou]

I urge you to not reset the BMS by whatever means.

The Ford Workshop Manual is explicit in saying the BMS should only be reset when the battery is replaced with a new battery. That procedure resets the battery age parameter in the charging algorithm to zero, which bears on the long-term algorithm behavior (the battery age parameter is stored in non-volatile memory so it is retained even if the battery is disconnected for whatever reason / duration and then reinstalled, as might occur when doing a lengthy unrelated repair procedure).

Resetting the BMS is not a recommended action found in any of the Workshop Manual charging system troubleshooting procedures.

I strongly suggest you put the battery on a proper AGM charger (e.g. Noco 10) to bring up the SOC and see how things go from there. Your system is likely set with a default target SOC of 80%.

FYI it took ~30 hours for a Noco 10 to bring my H8 battery from ~70% up to 100% SOC. Since doing that my truck has had no problem keeping the SOC at or near 90%, which is the revised target SOC I set with FORScan (PC version). Noting that frequent short trips do pull that SOC down, but it recovers with a good highway drive.

Just for your consideration, Good Luck!

I'll take your advice and NOT reset the BMS. I recently purchased a Noco 10, but weather has been crummy here and my truck is outside, so I haven't been able to keep it pluged in for a 24 hour period.

I don't know if my trips are short, 15, maybe 20 mins each way on errands, at about 35-40MPH. About every 2 weeks I get for around 50 minutes both way at 55mph on a Costco run. I haven't been able to nail down a scenerio when this happens. I didn't have this issue until about 3 months ago.

I considered getting an h8 battery, but haven't researched yet. Do they still fit in the battery tray?

Honestly this is more an annoyance then anything and since the truck is new and over $60k, it is bothersome. It might be something I might just need to get over. I'll leave that Noco 10 on for a full 24 hour charge though. to see.

 

[Buyer2021]

I considered getting an h8 battery, but haven't researched yet. Do they still fit in the battery tray?

Yes, H8 is a drop-in fit for all gen 14 except PowerBoost which has a PB-specific module taking space in the tray.

My truck is outside in the rain, too. I connect the noco and run the battery leads out the front of the hood to the charger set on top of the passenger tire under the wheel-well so I can see the lights for monitoring, close the hood completely so the truck will go to 'sleep' at night; put the extension-cord plug under the front of the truck, all is out of the rain for extended charging sessions.

 

[Bobcatou]

Yes, H8 is a drop-in fit for all gen 14 except PowerBoost which has a PB-specific module taking space in the tray.

My truck is outside in the rain, too. I connect the noco and run the battery leads out the front of the hood to the charger set on top of the passenger tire under the wheel-well so I can see the lights for monitoring, close the hood completely so the truck will go to 'sleep' at night; put the extension-cord plug under the front of the truck, all is out of the rain for extended charging sessions.

Ugh...I have a Powerboost. :-(

I'll take a look at my setup tomorrow and see if I can mimik it. I was having issues knocking the clips off the positive when I tried to close the hood. Do you use the metal post that sticks up at the top of the battery for the ground. (I'm guessing that is what it was for.) I was told don't charge on the negative because the BMS wouldn't see the charge coming in that way.

 

[JohnTrigger]

An H7 should fit in your powerboost. It probably came with one though.

Here‘s what I would do, in your situation, as I think it can maybe bypass the BMS and maybe fully charge the battery. Charge it TWICE back to back. The first time hook directly up to the terminals. Let it charge fully. Then unhook the negative from the terminal and hook to a body ground on the other side of BMS sensor. Let it charge a second time “through“ the BMS, it should quickly show a full charge. I suspect the BMS manipulates even a trickle charge into showing “full” even when it’s maybe only 80% since that’s what it defaults too. So the first charge bypasses that possibility. I have no way to prove this helps or even works, but I can’t see it hurting anything.

 

[JohnTrigger]

Also don’t forget in your powerboost you have that second aux battery under your rear seat that influences the whole electrical system, and if it were bad it will equalize the two batteries to a lower level.

 

[Darrell78]

Anyone experience their Lock/Unlock Buttons on Inside of Door being Unresponsive and not working? Happened to me a few times - I think I've had the DS door open for an extended period every time it happened. I'd then have to use the key fob to unlock the doors and then the door mounted switches would work again. Even though the door was open for +/- 20 minutes, I had the interior lights switched off and the battery was holding 12.1-12.3 volts.

Pretty sure this is an anti theft thing. Inside lock switches are on a timer. They disable them so you cant use the break in kit to hit the unlock switch. Normal operation. Using the key fob restarts the timer

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