Search results

13k / almost 1.5 years on a 2024 5.0L. OE battery. I drive it every day about 30 min to get to work. The battery used to hold a 70% SOC. Now it will drop to 45-50% overnight and typically will charge back up to 53%. The last 2 weekends, I took it for a 1.5 hour ride and it still wouldn't charge...

I keep my vehicles until they die, so only 2 previous: 1990 Jeep YJ 2.5L 5spd 2008 F150 STX 4.6L 4wd SCAB 145" WB

Install was very easy since I did not go with any of the options/upgrades - Just 4 bolts and 1 electrical plug connection. They're almost as good if not as good as the stock mirrors.

Installed Boost Auto towing mirrors:

Anyone have the Boost Auto towing mirrors? How do they compare in quality and fit to OEM? Without any of the upgrades, they're a significantly cheaper than OEM, so I'm wanting to give them a try.

This color wouldn't be my first choice, but the 6.5' bed with the SCREW is pretty hard to come by in my area. In the end, I think it looks good though.

Keep us posted on what you end up with. I was afraid the American Thunder would be too loud, so I went with the FM Original 40 series. The FM40 sounds great dumped behind the cab and with the resonator removed.

I ended up just using a generic marker light strip and it looks good IMO. No pics of how I mounted the brackets, but I used one existing hole and drilled a second in the plastic cover above the grill. Parts list: Amber Marker Lights on Amazon Headlight Plug & Play Harness on F150LEDs.com - A...

It's getting harder and harder to be responsible and wait until the tires need replacing before upsizing them (only 5,000 miles on the stockers :sadface:.) 33" or 34" BFG AT KO3s are on the horizon.

What am I doing wrong? I like using the dashboards feature for the extra real-time gauges, but connecting the MX+ each time is a real PITA. Every time I get in the truck, I have to go in to Bluetooth settings, forget the MX+ and reconnect it before connecting through the app on my phone. For it...

Mounted the front 2 box link cleats on the front of the toolbox since the normal location was useless with the box. I used steel backing plates to hopefully better distribute the weight than fender washers would. This would only be used for securing light loads.

Resurrecting an old thread ... Mercer County, NJ here.

Anyone experience their Lock/Unlock Buttons on Inside of Door being Unresponsive and not working? Happened to me a few times - I think I've had the DS door open for an extended period every time it happened. I'd then have to use the key fob to unlock the doors and then the door mounted switches...

Agreed, but lol - You're dating yourself (as am I by responding) - We've been back to the tan plates in various iterations since the early 90s.

Just cheapo SZYANG MOLLEs from Amazon. I really wanted the Built Right ones, but couldn't stomach the price point. The Built Right ones do appear to be much better quality in how they mount though (integrated mounting bracket vs. just bolt spacers with the ones I chose).

Just a small utility trailer and pop-up camper: