Transmission Fluid Change

[Jmitchelltfo]

Every motorcycle with a wet clutch I've ever bought had the oil changed as soon as I got home. New vehicles get an oil change around 1-2000 mile mark and I will always cut the oil filter open just because I'm a curious guy. I had a Hyundai with lots of RTV built up in the pleats, and after some research I found out that some oil pickup screens were actually clogging with that same RTV and causing pressure issues. I had a chance to trade that car for a profit during the covid craziness, so I jumped on that opportunity.

I am one of those people that would rather buy Castrol Edge or another inexpensive synthetic and run it with a quality filter like the Purolator Boss rather than spend double on an oil that won't make it to double the mileage.

I don't doubt that Amsoil is quality, I just know that I've read plenty of reports about the ecoboost with fuel dilution issues which means that stretching oil changes out isn't wise IMO. If I was running extended OCI's I would definitely consider Amsoil.

I also did a drain and fill on all my fluids. The transmission definitely needed it at 52k miles since the fluid was grey with only a hint of red to it. Sooner rather than later would be my recommendation. I bought my pickup as a CPO with 40K on it, and I doubt the transmission had seen any love prior to me.

Sponsored

 

[Gros Ventre]

Stretching oil changes out, without oil analysis, is not a good idea. I agree. On the other hand if you do analysis and can see whether you have fuel dilution or other things going on, there is no problem extending the oil change intervals. In my case, I ran a 92 Suburban for 30 years... Still the original engine and using less than a quart in 5,000 miles.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Every motorcycle with a wet clutch I've ever bought had the oil changed as soon as I got home. New vehicles get an oil change around 1-2000 mile mark and I will always cut the oil filter open just because I'm a curious guy. I had a Hyundai with lots of RTV built up in the pleats, and after some research I found out that some oil pickup screens were actually clogging with that same RTV and causing pressure issues. I had a chance to trade that car for a profit during the covid craziness, so I jumped on that opportunity.

I am one of those people that would rather buy Castrol Edge or another inexpensive synthetic and run it with a quality filter like the Purolator Boss rather than spend double on an oil that won't make it to double the mileage.

I don't doubt that Amsoil is quality, I just know that I've read plenty of reports about the ecoboost with fuel dilution issues which means that stretching oil changes out isn't wise IMO. If I was running extended OCI's I would definitely consider Amsoil.

I also did a drain and fill on all my fluids. The transmission definitely needed it at 52k miles since the fluid was grey with only a hint of red to it. Sooner rather than later would be my recommendation. I bought my pickup as a CPO with 40K on it, and I doubt the transmission had seen any love prior to me.

I'm a fan of early lubricant changes like you. Particularly in the engine and transmission. Those two are important since the clearances are really tight. The purpose, as I see things, is to get out as much manufacturing debris as possible. Example: My dealer's Service Advisor (I tend to stick with the same one if at all possible) recently remarked that my transmission was the most problem free one that dealership sees. Well, I didn't buy the Ford 150,000 miles change and had mine changed at ~15, 30 & 45K along with the filter. Bottom line to my way of thinking is that its a hydraulic machine and some clearances are very, very fine. A random piece of dust can worm its way into some awkward places and you can then get your butt kicked trying to figure it out... So far so good...

 

[missileboy]

As far as the catch can goes it used to be a bigger issue than it is now when the 5.0’s were direct injection only. Now that they’re direct and port injected the fuel spray cleans the valves a little more. I just installed my catch can at 400 miles, but It wouldn’t have bothered me to go even a few thousand miles before I installed it. I’m sure there are higher mileage engine owners who don’t even know what a catch can is.

wait for 500 miles before you empty it, you'll be glad that mocha colored, watery gas smelling crap is not going back in your motor! Even if it weren't necessarily an issue, I still would not, if given the chance, ingest that crap in my truck.

 

[Gros Ventre]

wait for 500 miles before you empty it, you'll be glad that mocha colored, watery gas smelling crap is not going back in your motor! Even if it weren't necessarily an issue, I still would not, if given the chance, ingest that crap in my truck.

Agreed. If you think about PCV what is going on is the junk is being burned in the cylinders. That is a band-aid to minimize what gets out of the engine into the atmosphere. If you can intercept that junk and dispose of it, your cylinders will run a bit cleaner.

Sponsored