Trans fluid "flush" / exchange, or drop pan drain?

[HammaMan]

Here's some vids I keep on hand...



Ford tech performing CDF replacement



VB removal in-truck



Valve body and pump teardowns

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[FirstFord]

Here's some vids I keep on hand...

Ford tech performing CDF replacement

VB removal in-truck

Valve body and pump teardowns

GREAT info - thanks!

 

[HammaMan]

Do keep in mind, the PB does have a couple more parts in there including 2 more valves in there around the aux pump. Still pretty much the same though.

 

[Buyer2021]

I won't be dropping the pan for a filter change until 60k miles ....

I'm similarly inclined.

I tow with my truck but it's not at all my primary use, 60k miles for fluid + filter change strikes me as a 'reasonable' balance given the 'normal-duty' (150k miles) vs 'extreme vehicle operation' (annually) recommendations in the Owner's Manual.

I might accelerate that if I ever encounter an extreme tranny-temp situation, but so far mine has run comfortably cool at all times.

That's a purely personal judgment, YMMV, no worries!

Yes, I am aware of the drum issue, and it is my understanding that Ford has made some improvements with this component, but I guess the jury is still out as to if it is an actual solution or not. In any case, my '22 has the "unimproved" drum.

To be completely fair, I am not experiencing any issues with the transmission at all - never have (maybe I'm one of the lucky ones). So, I'm not trying to "fix" something that is wrong with the trans. In any case, I'm a believer in preventative maintenance, and want to do what I can to make this trans last.

I have reasoned that regardless of the method - fluid exchange or drop the pan - I'll still be getting (roughly) the same amount of fluid out, and knowing that I will still be leaving behind fluid in the toque converter and the valve body. So it seems to me that the differences in methods are that the fluid exchange is easier, neater, and faster. But dropping the pan allows you to change the filter. (And I still have echoing in the back of my head what the dealership service advisor told me - that now Ford recommends doing a fluid exchange instead of dropping the pan, and Ford wants the trans to remain sealed and closed).

But if I drop the pan....... That actually opens up a whole set of additional talking points. If I'm going to go through the trouble (and the mess) of dropping the pan, then this would be the time to replace the pan with an aftermarket pan that is finned aluminum and has a drain plug (like a PPE). This would also be the time to drop the valve body and add clips such as these: https://suncoastdiesel.com/i-305010...10r80-solenoid-stabilization-clip-insert.html
It is my understanding that clips such as these help prevent issues with the valve body, and maybe even the drum.

^ Lots of logical thinking, IMO. ^

Those Suncoast clips are interesting, perhaps even tempting when dropping the pan for fluid / filter maintenance.

My only hesitation is wondering if they might be a 'point of contention' if I ever have need of tranny / valve-body / solenoid service under my PremiumCare ESP. Not at all sure if or how that might be the case, but I'm very careful to limit my mods to things that I've got very high confidence will not 'endanger' any aspect of my ESP coverage on the big-ticket driveline.

Like many things, that's another personal risk-tolerance decision that no-one can answer, I'd have to think more about that when the opportunity to install them comes.

The PPE oil-pan for my 3.5EB, just for example, does not cause me any concern as a mod.

And again, YMMV, no worries! We're all just doing the best we know to do to protect our trucks and enjoy them for the long-haul.

 

[FirstFord]

My only hesitation is wondering if they might be a 'point of contention' if I ever have need of tranny / valve-body / solenoid service under my PremiumCare ESP. Not at all sure if or how that might be the case, but I'm very careful to limit my mods to things that I've got very high confidence will not 'endanger' any aspect of my ESP coverage on the big-ticket driveline.

BINGO! That is exactly right, and I agree it is part of the debate - it is an argument that I constantly have with myself. I don't have PremiumCare, but I do have a Ford ESP. After a few experiences of life kicking me in the teeth, I have, unfortunately, become a wee bit cynical regarding some things, and this extended warranty is one of them. I'm afraid to say that given the choice of Ford paying out for a big warranty claim or finding a reason to deny it, I'm fearful that they'll find a reason to deny it. So, like you, I am mindful of giving them those reasons.... The irony is that the driving force behind making the modifications is so that you won't have to use an extended warranty in the first place.

 

[Buyer2021]

I don't have PremiumCare, but I do have a Ford ESP.

Totally off-topic, and none of my damned business, but I'm curious what Ford ESP you have?

 

[FirstFord]

Totally off-topic, and none of my damned business, but I'm curious what Ford ESP you have?

I have ExtraCare. It is a step under PremiumCare.

 

[js312]

60k is my plan too. I plan to keep this truck to 120ish so I will probably do all fluids at the halfway point of my ownership.

 

[JCsTruck]

I was given some kind of Ford extended powertrain warranty to 150k with mine because technically it was a used truck with 4,200 miles when I bought it. I used to do all my own engine and transmission work, including transmission oil pan removal for drain, filter, and refill, and let me tell you, that job sucks doing it on the ground in a driveway, or your garage. It has to suck even more now that transmissions have become more complicated and less easy to work on and you don't have a traditional dipstick anymore.

I don’t even bother changing my own engine oil anymore because for $90-$120, someone else does it for me and I don't have to deal with fragile plastic parts like my Kia Telluride has, oil everywhere, oil on my garage floor and me, and then having to dispose of the old oil all to save $30-$60. And now maintenance work is tracked with Carfax so if you change your own oil, it looks like you never changed it when they look it up and then your resale value gets effected unless your diligent enough to keep very good paper records I guess. This is another hassle for me anyway (yes I’m f-ing lazy now). I guarantee you it will be a hassle even if you have good paper records/receipts and then even if you show them those paper records they will still say it wasn't serviced by a certified technician so therefore…

The only part I might try is the mighty vacuum method which looks to be rather simple and not so messy and like someone said, measure what you took out and put that amount back in but still verify the level is correct. Chances are I wont do this work on my own because I’ve done it all before and my time is valuable so if this transmission becomes problematic down the line then I’ll likely trade this truck in for something better. I wont have oil stains on my garage floor or driveway to deal with and oil stained clothes to wash or toss either and the online service records will all show that I did the proper maintenance thereby increasing my resale value. ?

 

[js312]

I was given some kind of Ford extended powertrain warranty to 150k with mine because technically it was a used truck with 4,200 miles when I bought it. I used to do all my own engine and transmission work, including transmission oil pan removal for drain, filter, and refill, and let me tell you, that job sucks doing it on the ground in a driveway, or your garage. It has to suck even more now that transmissions have become more complicated and less easy to work on and you don't have a traditional dipstick anymore.

I don’t even bother changing my own engine oil anymore because for $90-$120, someone else does it for me and I don't have to deal with fragile plastic parts like my Kia Telluride has, oil everywhere, oil on my garage floor and me, and then having to dispose of the old oil all to save $30-$60. And now maintenance work is tracked with Carfax so if you change your own oil, it looks like you never changed it when they look it up and then your resale value gets effected unless your diligent enough to keep very good paper records I guess. This is another hassle for me anyway (yes I’m f-ing lazy now). I guarantee you it will be a hassle even if you have good paper records/receipts and then even if you show them those paper records they will still say it wasn't serviced by a certified technician so therefore…

The only part I might try is the mighty vacuum method which looks to be rather simple and not so messy and like someone said, measure what you took out and put that amount back in but still verify the level is correct. Chances are I wont do this work on my own because I’ve done it all before and my time is valuable so if this transmission becomes problematic down the line then I’ll likely trade this truck in for something better. I wont have oil stains on my garage floor or driveway to deal with and oil stained clothes to wash or toss either and the online service records will all show that I did the proper maintenance thereby increasing my resale value. ?

I do my own oil changes because having someone else do it is less convenient for me. I will probably do that, transfer case, front differential, maybe the rear differential and spark plugs, then have them do the transmission and brake fluid (looks like an awful process on these trucks).

 

[JCsTruck]

I do my own oil changes because having someone else do it is less convenient for me. I will probably do that, transfer case, front differential, maybe the rear differential and spark plugs, then have them do the transmission and brake fluid (looks like an awful process on these trucks).

Good point on the differential fluid changes. Doing the maintenance on the differential fluidis so important. I learned the hard way changing that fluid needs to be rigorously done or the bearings in that differential will wear out quickly and at least doing that yourself is real easy. My 2014 differential wore out at the 180k mark even though I changed the differential fluid at 60k, 120k, and then 150k. I should have done that every 30k. If you check the differential temperature after a long highway drive on a summer day it will be at least 180-degrees, so imagine that temperature when towing something. I don't tow anything with my 2014 and basically just commute 100 miles round trip each day with very little weight in the bed. I had to replace all the axle bearings and ring and pinion gear because the vibrations and axle hum was getting to be too much at 180k. After the rebuild it was as smooth as warm butter. Then again my previous Toyota Tundra with 200k never had these issue with the axle. ?

Truck owners I think tend to be a different crowd then your average auto owner, and I think they tend to take extra good care of their investment on average compared to other vehicle owners or categories. I can see this when I go near a construction site around Boston in the middle of winter when every vehicle is covered in salt and is very dirty and then every truck in that same lot looks like it was just washed an hour ago and is spotless and looks so nice. That right there says a lot! ??

Spark plugs maybe easy on the 5.0 but on my 3.7 you have to take the whole intake off. I did that once with my wife‘s Sienna. This time I let the technician deal with it and it’s been fine.

 

[js312]

Good point on the differential fluid changes. Doing the maintenance on the differential fluidis so important. I learned the hard way changing that fluid needs to be rigorously done or the bearings in that differential will wear out quickly and at least doing that yourself is real easy. My 2014 differential wore out at the 180k mark even though I changed the differential fluid at 60k, 120k, and then 150k. I should have done that every 30k. If you check the differential temperature after a long highway drive on a summer day it will be at least 180-degrees, so imagine that temperature when towing something. I don't tow anything with my 2014 and basically just commute 100 miles round trip each day with very little weight in the bed. I had to replace all the axle bearings and ring and pinion gear because the vibrations and axle hum was getting to be too much at 180k. After the rebuild it was as smooth as warm butter. Then again my previous Toyota Tundra with 200k never had these issue with the axle. ?

Truck owners I think tend to be a different crowd then your average auto owner, and I think they tend to take extra good care of their investment on average compared to other vehicle owners or categories. I can see this when I go near a construction site around Boston in the middle of winter when every vehicle is covered in salt and is very dirty and then every truck in that same lot looks like it was just washed an hour ago and is spotless and looks so nice. That right there says a lot! ??

Spark plugs maybe easy on the 5.0 but on my 3.7 you have to take the whole intake off. I did that once with my wife‘s Sienna. This time I let the technician deal with it and it’s been fine.

Plugs were easy on my 2020 3.5 EcoBoost. I think the only difference on this truck is they're now indexed.

My 2020's rear differential was rebuilt around 75k due to pinion bearing noise. Ford tech noted lots of discolored metal on the bearings like it had been running hot and replaced everything except the ring and pinion. I was afraid of snapping bolts taking the cover off, so I extracted as much fluid as I could with a pump and replaced it around 50k. I ended up getting most of it out that way, but had to put in about 1/2 qt more than I took out to get the level right, so it must have been a bit low from the factory. I wish they would just put a drain plug on these like they do for the transfer case.

 

[Aonarch]

My process:

1. Check trans dipstick level cold, make a note
2. Drop pan, capturing all trans fluid in container/ pan
3. Measure old fluid
4. Pour in new fluid matching that level
5. Turn on truck, shift through gears a few times, but not enough to warm it up, just to circulate fluid
6. Let sit a few minutes
7. Check level again, match original cold reading
8. Now get the trans up to operating temperature (206f) by driving while applying brake pressure
9. Check hot level, should be between 5 and 6 on dipstick (Tip don't fully tighten the dipstick, just hand tight before warning up the trans)

 

[JohnTrigger]

My process:

1. Check trans dipstick level cold, make a note, it hopefully is at 1 or above
2. Drop pan, capturing all trans fluid in container/ pan
3. Measure old fluid
4. Pour in new fluid matching that level
5. Turn on truck, shift through gears a few times, but not enough to warm it up, just to circulate fluid
6. Let sit a few minutes
7. Check cold level, adding fluid as needed to hit 1 on dipstick
8. Now get the trans up to operating temperature (206f) by driving while applying brake pressure
9. Check level, should be between 5 and 6 on dipstick

Your process is logical. But I’m confused. I believe your dipstick value of “1” in steps 1 and 7 is not correct. 1 is at the full end of the dipstick. 6 is at the lower fluid end. When cold it will be lower on the stick than the number 6 (i.e. towards the tip).

Between 5-6 is correct for Gen 14 F-150 non-powerboost while at hot temp. 3-4 is correct range for powerboost when hot.

 

[Aonarch]

Your process is logical. But I’m confused. I believe your dipstick value of “1” in steps 1 and 7 is not correct. 1 is at the full end of the dipstick. 6 is at the lower fluid end. When cold it will be lower on the stick than the number 6 (i.e. towards the tip).

Between 5-6 is correct for Gen 14 F-150 non-powerboost while at hot temp. 3-4 is correct range for powerboost when hot.

Ohh sorry I got the numbers backwards.

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