Tinting the rear window w/ defroster?

[Bob Violence]

My 2021 came with some crappy (perhaps factory or dealer installed) window tint all the way around. I'm going to have it replaced with something that is better at reducing the heat that radiates into the cab. I know I can have the side windows existing tint removed and replaced, but what is the story with the rear window? Is that a tint that is on there, or is it privacy glass? And what is the general consensus on tinting the rear window with a defroster? I see numerous cars on the road with large bubbles because of their tint and rear defroster, and want to avoid that outcome.

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[MustangDon50]

Can only speak from my own experience ,but here in Montreal, where the rear defrost is used regularly in the winter months, i have never had an issues with tints in the rear forming any bubbles. My understanding is the bubbles happen if the rear defrost is used before letting the Tint film ,and glue? / water to dry out fully before use. i believe the last car i had tinted , the tech told me to wait up to a week + and let the car sit in the sun a coupleof days before using the rear defrost.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

My 2021 came with some crappy (perhaps factory or dealer installed) window tint all the way around. I'm going to have it replaced with something that is better at reducing the heat that radiates into the cab. I know I can have the side windows existing tint removed and replaced, but what is the story with the rear window? Is that a tint that is on there, or is it privacy glass? And what is the general consensus on tinting the rear window with a defroster? I see numerous cars on the road with large bubbles because of their tint and rear defroster, and want to avoid that outcome.

The rear windows are privacy glass. It's not that dark from the factory and going 25% on top of it will make it decently dark but still retain enough night time visibility for you. As far as removing existing tint if yours has it on the rear with the defroster. Well that's a crap shoot if the chosen shop can get it off without destroying the grid. They usually use a heat gun to remove the old tint. Some are really good where others not so much, but all of them will tell you there's a chance that one or more grid lines will get damaged removing the existing tint.

the large blisters in tint are almost always from crappy installation from people who did a piss poor job installing the tint as well as failing to properly clean the glass prior to install. As long as you take it to a reputable shop that knows what they are doing you should be fine. I had mine done at Global Shading on Jones Rd in NW Houston and they did a fantastic job. No discernable haze with their nano-ceramic tint and I had all 4 doors and back glass done to 25%. Makes the rear look considerably darker and cut the cab temps down by 40+ degrees over no tint at all. When I remember to put the windshield screen up the cab temp is only slightly hotter than ambient after sitting outside all day. Of course it's Oxford White so that helps.

To add to this I have had the windows tinted on every car I have ever owned. Always took it to reputable shops to have it done. Not one of them ever developed bubbles or blisters on the back glass with defrosters. This is even on one car I had for 12 years and used the rear defrost all the time since it was a hatchback and the defroster did a better job clearing the window than the rear wiper in both rain and foggy mornings.

 

[Bob Violence]

The rear windows are privacy glass. It's not that dark from the factory and going 25% on top of it will make it decently dark but still retain enough night time visibility for you. As far as removing existing tint if yours has it on the rear with the defroster. Well that's a crap shoot if the chosen shop can get it off without destroying the grid. They usually use a heat gun to remove the old tint. Some are really good where others not so much, but all of them will tell you there's a chance that one or more grid lines will get damaged removing the existing tint.

the large blisters in tint are almost always from crappy installation from people who did a piss poor job installing the tint as well as failing to properly clean the glass prior to install. As long as you take it to a reputable shop that knows what they are doing you should be fine. I had mine done at Global Shading on Jones Rd in NW Houston and they did a fantastic job. No discernable haze with their nano-ceramic tint and I had all 4 doors and back glass done to 25%. Makes the rear look considerably darker and cut the cab temps down by 40+ degrees over no tint at all. When I remember to put the windshield screen up the cab temp is only slightly hotter than ambient after sitting outside all day. Of course it's Oxford White so that helps.

To add to this I have had the windows tinted on every car I have ever owned. Always took it to reputable shops to have it done. Not one of them ever developed bubbles or blisters on the back glass with defrosters. This is even on one car I had for 12 years and used the rear defrost all the time since it was a hatchback and the defroster did a better job clearing the window than the rear wiper in both rain and foggy mornings.

Thanks for the info. I know the side windows are tint, but as you stated, the rear is most likely privacy glass (without tint), assuming that is how it comes from Ford.

I'm in Houston as well. Mind if I ask what you paid for your tint job at that store? I've got a good tint guy on the SW side of town, but he is expensive, and I'm looking for a better deal.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Sure. I paid 377 with tax for the nano-ceramic tint. I don't remember what brand theirs is but it's almost as good as HuperOptik/Autobahn nano-ceramic which is considered some of the best ceramic tint in the industry. I only found a couple shops that carry Huper's tint and they both wanted close to 700 installed for it. These guys were quick too. They completed it in just a couple hours on a walk-in.

 

[OnceAnEagle]

Privacy glass does nothing for heat absorption. Some metallic film interfers with GPS and radio signals. Some film is dyed and can turn blue or purple over time with no warranty. Ceramic is the way to go right now, not metallic or dyed. My windows are getting XPEL nano ceramic this week to include the power rear window grid @ 35% front windows and 70% rear windows and back. Tint percentage is not as important as the film's ability to absorb heat and each State has legal limits as to %. Removal of film over the grid should be done by a pro, typically using a heat gun. BTW, it seems silly to do three sides of the truck but not the windshield or moonroof, if you have one. Sort of like turning on the house a/c and leaving the front door wide open. So I am getting a 5% eyebrow to the manufacturer marker line over a full 70% windshield. The eyebrow line does not bother me. In Kansas, the police use film on all their cruiser windows and their personal vehicles to include a full windshield typically at 50%. Bubbled film is from poor installation by not cleaning the glass properly. XPEL has a lifetime warranty, transferable, and I trust this stuff and my installer. Cost: Windows side and back $350, full windshield $250, eyebrow $50, + tax.

 

[Bob Violence]

Privacy glass does nothing for heat absorption. Some metallic film interfers with GPS and radio signals. Some film is dyed and can turn blue or purple over time with no warranty. Ceramic is the way to go right now, not metallic or dyed. My windows are getting XPEL nano ceramic this week to include the power rear window grid @ 35% front windows and 70% rear windows and back. Tint percentage is not as important as the film's ability to absorb heat and each State has legal limits as to %. Removal of film over the grid should be done by a pro, typically using a heat gun. BTW, it seems silly to do three sides of the truck but not the windshield or moonroof, if you have one. Sort of like turning on the house a/c and leaving the front door wide open. So I am getting a 5% eyebrow to the manufacturer marker line over a full 70% windshield. The eyebrow line does not bother me. In Kansas, the police use film on all their cruiser windows and their personal vehicles to include a full windshield typically at 50%. Bubbled film is from poor installation by not cleaning the glass properly. XPEL has a lifetime warranty, transferable, and I trust this stuff and my installer. Cost: Windows side and back $350, full windshield $250, eyebrow $50, + tax.

Appreciate the info. Definitely doing ceramic, and will consider the windshield as well. No moonroof ... when I sought out my truck, I specifically didn't want one. The Houston sun/heat just bakes you most of the time, so it would have just stayed closed anyway.

 

[nicholsbradley]

Thanks for the info. I know the side windows are tint, but as you stated, the rear is most likely privacy glass (without tint), assuming that is how it comes from Ford.

I'm in Houston as well. Mind if I ask what you paid for your tint job at that store? I've got a good tint guy on the SW side of town, but he is expensive, and I'm looking for a better deal.

I paid 275 at Executive Motorsports whole truck and sunroof. Life time tint warranty.
1208 Gessner Rd, Houston, TX 77055

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Appreciate the info. Definitely doing ceramic, and will consider the windshield as well. No moonroof ... when I sought out my truck, I specifically didn't want one. The Houston sun/heat just bakes you most of the time, so it would have just stayed closed anyway.

You may run into issues with passing inspection with the windshield tint if it's past the AS-1 line. Some places won't care/notice if it's light enough but others are sticklers for it and will fail you in a heartbeat. Not to mention if you get pulled over and the cop is having a particularly bad day and decides you win the asshole cop prize.

 

[OnceAnEagle]

So here is XPEL Nano Ceramic @ 70% windshield, 5% eyebrow, 35% front windows, 70% rear side windows and 70% rear.

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