Speakers-best bang for the buck

[astrand1]

That’s good to hear, I wonder what other differences there are. I think I’m going to go the same route as you. I ordered the sounds good stereo bass roll off solution and I’m going to install the aftermarket sub. I’ll have to order the door block off plates and upgrade the speakers to see what that gets me. I might have missed it, but did you upgrade the tweeters and if you did how did you wire them up? Gf the factory head unit like stock or use the crossovers from the door speakers to the tweeters

So I had the non B&O system. I ordered 2 new a piller pieces for the base B&O system to have the tweeters that face out instead of into the windshield. To my surprise the pillers came with the new tweeters installed so I just plugged them in and they sound worlds better than the other ones I had so I’m just rolling with those. So between the powerbass speakers and the new ACM my volume has increased huge. What it was volume wise at 20 is now about 13/14. At 20 it’s almost way to loud. I’m quite satisfied with the overall sound. Now I’ve just gotta figure out a small sun setup. I’ve got the ford kicker sun but that won’t work with this new ACM since it’s different software so not wanting to lose any storage space I’m going to just gut the kicker box. Might keep the sub speaker as it’s decent and I’ll just get a small amp for it and then figure out wiring. Hopefully find something plug and play. I don’t want to cut any wires.

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[dmac]

So I took @Porpoise Hork 's advice and ordered some Kicker DS 6x9 and 6.5 sets for front and rear. Also got some door block off plates and dynamat noise insulation ready. No amp planned for now since Im not going for volume.

Ill keep you guys updated once they come in and get installed.

I put the front 6x9s in today. Long process that required multiple trips to the hardware store to get me a drill and some insulation tape, but here are some pics.
- lots of butyl insulation on the outer door skin
- some butyl insulation on the inner door skin and door panel
- Added block off plates on the front door panels
- Replaced factory non b&o 4 ohm with kicker ds 6x9 3 ways
- Removed and Re applied foam insulation from factory speaker to new metra speajer harness

Attached some pics.

Results: I don't hear tweeters or center speaker as much anymore, the new speakers in their new enclosure deliver full range sound, very rich throughout.

Bass is much improved. Road noise was also reduced significantly. Am I happy? No lol... i think I need to recalibrate the eq and some settings in forscan to make things work better together now. Yes I'm happy now. Played with the EQ settings and I think the speakers need to just keep breaking in. Awesome clarity at all levels now.

Another note, for those who don't know, my finger is pointing at the clip you need to press down on to release the door latch cable

 

[stew150]

Upgrading the factory speakers in most cases will improve clarity and mid-bass output. It mostly depends on if the replacement speakers are in the correct RMS power range for the system as well as having a decently high efficiency rating. Most aftermarket speakers suffer from lower efficiency ratings than OEM's, due to their higher power handling ability causing them to sometimes not sound as good as factory. Choosing speakers that have a wide power range but also work well in low powered systems will almost always sound better than stock once dialed in. The speakers I chose for the F150 have decently low RMS and minimum power requirements well suited to run off a factory head unit without an amp. Other things can also be done to improve mid-bass like adding sound mat and foam pads behind the speakers. That's what I did on my Ranger with B&O since it already sounded good but lacked mid-bass. Just adding sound mat mate a world of difference on that truck compared to the absolute crap sounding oem speakers in the base F150 sound system.

Since mine has the standard sound system in it the doors are 4 ohm, but I don't know about the pillar tweeters since I never messed with those.

With that said what speakers have the correct RMS power and a high efficiency rating that can replace stock 150 door speakers

 

[Mach725]

So I had the non B&O system. I ordered 2 new a piller pieces for the base B&O system to have the tweeters that face out instead of into the windshield. To my surprise the pillers came with the new tweeters installed so I just plugged them in and they sound worlds better than the other ones I had so I’m just rolling with those. So between the powerbass speakers and the new ACM my volume has increased huge. What it was volume wise at 20 is now about 13/14. At 20 it’s almost way to loud. I’m quite satisfied with the overall sound. Now I’ve just gotta figure out a small sun setup. I’ve got the ford kicker sun but that won’t work with this new ACM since it’s different software so not wanting to lose any storage space I’m going to just gut the kicker box. Might keep the sub speaker as it’s decent and I’ll just get a small amp for it and then figure out wiring. Hopefully find something plug and play. I don’t want to cut any wires.

Got part numbers for the pillars?

 

[stew150]

After reading through this thread I still don't heave a clear answer for "best bang for the buck". In my case I am looking to simply improve the stock speakers without adding a sub and preferable no amp to my 2022 XLT. From reading to leverage the stock system one would need a speaker with low RMS values which the the Kicker KS series seems to do. One area I don't see addressed is when should a simple woofer vs 2 or 3 way speaker be used. I have seen all mentioned for the 6X9 door speakers. Also, is there a speaker that would be appropriate for a stock set up but also for an amplified set up should I feel the need to do this at a later date?

When installing all door speakers I intend to apply sounds deadening tape to the door as well.

 

[astrand1]

After reading through this thread I still don't heave a clear answer for "best bang for the buck". In my case I am looking to simply improve the stock speakers without adding a sub and preferable no amp to my 2022 XLT. From reading to leverage the stock system one would need a speaker with low RMS values which the the Kicker KS series seems to do. One area I don't see addressed is when should a simple woofer vs 2 or 3 way speaker be used. I have seen all mentioned for the 6X9 door speakers. Also, is there a speaker that would be appropriate for a stock set up but also for an amplified set up should I feel the need to do this at a later date?

When installing all door speakers I intend to apply sounds deadening tape to the door as well.

I’d say just get the powerbass speakers I got. Not too expensive easy to install. And they make a nice difference. They don’t need an amp.

 

[astrand1]

Got part numbers for the pillars?

left and right black in color.

 

[Graygoose2021]

After reading through this thread I still don't heave a clear answer for "best bang for the buck". In my case I am looking to simply improve the stock speakers without adding a sub and preferable no amp to my 2022 XLT. From reading to leverage the stock system one would need a speaker with low RMS values which the the Kicker KS series seems to do. One area I don't see addressed is when should a simple woofer vs 2 or 3 way speaker be used. I have seen all mentioned for the 6X9 door speakers. Also, is there a speaker that would be appropriate for a stock set up but also for an amplified set up should I feel the need to do this at a later date?

When installing all door speakers I intend to apply sounds deadening tape to the door as well.

or check out the Kicker CS, IMHO better off stock HU

 

[stew150]

or check out the Kicker CS, IMHO better off stock HU

Are you saying stock is better than the Kicker KS and you would recommend the CS? I also don't know that HU means, sorry about that. I have to imagine it wouldn't take much to be better than stock, there is little range and no bass with nearly no support from the rear. My 2015 stock tacoma speakers were much better and they were nothing fancy which is why I don't think I should need an amp or sub.

 

[dmac]

Are you saying stock is better than the Kicker KS and you would recommend the CS? I also don't know that HU means, sorry about that. I have to imagine it wouldn't take much to be better than stock, there is little range and no bass with nearly no support from the rear. My 2015 stock tacoma speakers were much better and they were nothing fancy which is why I don't think I should need an amp or sub.

Basically, if you are not planning on adding an amp, Kicker CS Kicker DS will be the best, since it is optimized for the lowest power from the HU (radio head unit) of the 3 Kicker Lines - see https://www.soundton.com/kicker-ks-vs-cs-vs-ds/. It also probably costs less.

The other half, whether or not you are adding an amp, is adding noise insulation. Installing 80ml Butyl on the outer door skins (like I did in my earlier post), goes a long way for cheap ($40 or so). If you want to spend $100-$200 more, the block off plates do great for Bass response and further reducing road noise and increasing clarity.

And finally, Forscan settings made a big difference for me - Sending a flat signal to the speakers, and changing the center speaker output to "tweeter" made things much more balanced.

 

[stew150]

Basically, if you are not planning on adding an amp, Kicker CS will be the best, since it is optimized for the lowest power from the HU (radio head unit) of the 3 Kicker Lines - see https://www.soundton.com/kicker-ks-vs-cs-vs-ds/. It also probably costs less.

The other half, whether or not you are adding an amp, is adding noise insulation. Installing 80ml Butyl on the outer door skins (like I did in my earlier post), goes a long way for cheap ($40 or so). If you want to spend $100-$200 more, the block off plates do great for Bass response and further reducing road noise and increasing clarity.

And finally, Forscan settings made a big difference for me - Sending a flat signal to the speakers, and changing the center speaker output to "tweeter" made things much more balanced.

Thank you for the feedback. Would the Kicker CS also be legitimate if adding a small amp later or would there be no gain if going with those speakers?

 

[astrand1]

Just for reference on the left is the stock rear door speaker and the right is the new powerbass 2 way speaker. I think a piece of paper weighs more than the stock speaker. Lol.

 

[dmac]

Thank you for the feedback. Would the Kicker CS also be legitimate if adding a small amp later or would there be no gain if going with those speakers?

Oops First off, I totally meant to say Kicker DS, for lowest power optimized (those are what I installed). Yes, the Kicker DS (and CS) will work for most amplifiers that aren't too crazy in terms of power. The DS will also probably be better off lower power too. 360W peak power from the DS line is plenty for me.

 

[dmac]

Just for reference on the left is the stock rear door speaker and the right is the new powerbass 2 way speaker. I think a piece of paper weighs more than the stock speaker. Lol.

Lol I'm sure the powerbass speakers are a great replacement as well.

The worst speakers in our trucks are definitely the rears, where the magnet it miniscule compared to aftermarket.

The stock fronts were somewhat closer the the Kicker DS 6x9's I installed, but the 3 way Kicker's add sooo much detail - cleaner and deeper down low, but amazing mids & highs combined with the 3 tweeter setup I have in my dash.

I want a sub now ha.

 

[astrand1]

Lol I'm sure the powerbass speakers are a great replacement as well.

The worst speakers in our trucks are definitely the rears, where the magnet it miniscule compared to aftermarket.

The stock fronts were somewhat closer the the Kicker DS 6x9's I install, but the 3 way Kicker's add sooo much detail - cleaner and deeper down low, but amazing mids & highs to combined with the 3 tweeter setup I have in my dash.

I want a sub now ha.

Yeah I thought those that have not taken out the speakers yet would get a kick of how pathetic the stocks really are. Lol

 

[Graygoose2021]

Yes the CSC is one of the best upgrades with stock headunit (HU) and later if you add more power, the CSC will be perfectly fine.

 

[F150Platinum22]

Lol I'm sure the powerbass speakers are a great replacement as well.

The worst speakers in our trucks are definitely the rears, where the magnet it miniscule compared to aftermarket.

The stock fronts were somewhat closer the the Kicker DS 6x9's I installed, but the 3 way Kicker's add sooo much detail - cleaner and deeper down low, but amazing mids & highs combined with the 3 tweeter setup I have in my dash.

I want a sub now ha.

Thanks for the info, do you have the 18 speaker B&O unleashed system, and put 3 way 6x9's in the front doors, and kept the factory tweeters in the A pillars, with definite improvements??
Thanks in advance

 

[dmac]

Thanks for the info, do you have the 18 speaker B&O unleashed system, and put 3 way 6x9's in the front doors, and kept the factory tweeters in the A pillars, with definite improvements??
Thanks in advance

I do not. I have the 7 speaker non b&o. I think that's similar to most of the people/content on this thread too.

 

[tilefordude]

Hey there, especially if you have upgraded door speakers, you should 100% change the ACM to send a flat signal with Forscan.

I too have the 7 speaker system, and after changing entry

727-01-02 from 0901******** to 0900********

I get great balanced sound stage, especially with this speaker in the center dash - https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-PS95-8-Source-Driver/dp/B00Q3M9852.

I hear details I didnt hear before and actually like the system better now than the Unleashed in my parents powerboost (except for the bass). I havent even added a sub or replaced any door speakers.

do you need a harness for this small speaker?

 

[dmac]

do you need a harness for this small speaker?

I just crimped the wires, and used the existing screws to secure it in, since it sits vertically. You probably could find the right harness by putting a similar one in your cart for the F-150 on crutchfield.com (they usually add installation gear for free).

 

[dmac]

I put the front 6x9s in today. Long process that required multiple trips to the hardware store to get me a drill and some insulation tape, but here are some pics.
- lots of butyl insulation on the outer door skin
- some butyl insulation on the inner door skin and door panel
- Added block off plates on the front door panels
- Replaced factory non b&o 4 ohm with kicker ds 6x9 3 ways
- Removed and Re applied foam insulation from factory speaker to new metra speajer harness

Attached some pics.

Results: I don't hear tweeters or center speaker as much anymore, the new speakers in their new enclosure deliver full range sound, very rich throughout.

Bass is much improved. Road noise was also reduced significantly. Am I happy? No lol... i think I need to recalibrate the eq and some settings in forscan to make things work better together now. Yes I'm happy now. Played with the EQ settings and I think the speakers need to just keep breaking in. Awesome clarity at all levels now.

Another note, for those who don't know, my finger is pointing at the clip you need to press down on to release the door latch cable

So a little update after a long road trip with these -> the low volume performance is orders of magnitude better - both stopped and over rough roads at high speed vs with the stock speakers and no insulation. Much more comfortable to spend lots of time in the car.

Where I'm not satisfied is at high outputs -> it's just too much to ask for the fronts to produce enough low's at high volumes without an amp, sub, or good quality speakers in the rear. I'm going to do the same install to the rear speakers, but I think I'm going to need a sub, especially after listening to my buddy's B&O with the 8 speaker system. His sounds better at higher volumes, even though clarity is worse at lower volumes.

 

[Mach725]

Can anyone help me out? I installed front and rear doors with kicker KS series. Planning on a kicker key amp later on. After install I did the Forscan upgrade to a flat signal as shown in this thread. I checked all four speakers and all were working fine. A month later now, I walked up when I unlocked my truck and heard a thumping sound from the rear driver side door speaker. I checked with balance/fade and nothing comes from that speaker. The rest are fine. I replaced that speaker with the stock one and still doesn’t work. What could it be? Thanks all

 

[dmac]

Can anyone help me out? I installed front and rear doors with kicker KS series. Planning on a kicker key amp later on. After install I did the Forscan upgrade to a flat signal as shown in this thread. I checked all four speakers and all were working fine. A month later now, I walked up when I unlocked my truck and heard a thumping sound from the rear driver side door speaker. I checked with balance/fade and nothing comes from that speaker. The rest are fine. I replaced that speaker with the stock one and still doesn’t work. What could it be? Thanks all

I haven't experienced this, but have you checked your codes in the ACM in forscan? This could be an issue unrelated to your mods.

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