Shaking after replacing wheels and tires.....twice

[FaaWrenchBndr]

The key point to take away from this thread is simply this.

Most new vehicles have wheels that are considered to be hubcentric. If you buy new wheels, you need to be damn sure you get wheels with the right size hub. If you don’t, you will constantly be chasing issues with balancing.

There are quite a few very high-quality wheel manufacturers that can get this right. But there are quite a few cheap wheels, sold by uneducated salesman that will just ruin your day

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[Kanuck]

One other item to watch for....

If changing lug nuts, make sure they are deep enough to to contact the rim before bottoming out on the threads.

My son replaced the lug nuts on his truck to the solid style. Truck had vibration at 50 mph and above. After many trips to tire shop and such, with no resolution. He changed out his "summer" tires for his "winter" set as well as his old luggage nuts. Vibration disappeared. Did some measurements and found the solid lug nuts were hitting the top of the wheel stud before tightening on the rim. Not enough to notice, but enough to allow the rim to move.

Problem solved.

 

[Aonarch]

I'm glad that it got solved. When I saw those cheap wheels, I immediately knew what the issue was.

The tire shop "ordering rings anyways" is a scary statement.

There are no universal hub rings. There are dozens of different sizes, based on the car's hub bore and the wheel's hub bore.

A micrometer is a few dollars on Amazon, you or the shop could have just checked.

Rings are $20 on ebay.

Hub rings themselves are fine, as long as you match up the sizes, you probably won't get vibrations. But for me, I'll always try to pick a hubcentric wheel over a non.

Where tire shops go wrong is when a ring falls off, and the tire tech doesn't notice and is woefully incompetent as to what hub centering rings are.

As others have said, there are two main lug types, with some odd balls like ET lug nuts that aren't very common.

The two main types are acorn, ball, cone, convex, there are different names for them. But basically one is like a ball, it is round, the other is angular, maybe 60* I can't remember.

You have to match the lugs to the wheel, and since yours if a cheap aftermarket, I bet it was a cone style.

You also need to match up the depth and thread engagement. The lugs could have been bottoming out on the studs before seating fully on the wheels. Or they might not have had enough thread engagement. My minimum is 8 full turns of thread engagement, but I'd like to see more.

 

[thekevin]

Discount called me Saturday and they have the hubcentric rings and 20" wheels they are wanting to try out. I guess I will be spending half the day down there tomorrow to see what happens. I really think if the rings don't fix it I am just going to ask for a refund and keep the factory wheels until I wear out the tires that are on it. We went camping the last 5 days and it pulled the camper great the way it is set up.

 

[thekevin]

I am all good now. Hubcentric rings and a new set of Cooper Discoverer ATP2 10ply tires and it drives like it's supposed to. Discount Tire really did do a good job taking care of it all things considered. Now I have two sets of wheels and tires to sell.

 

[Eighthtry]

You had to learn the hard way like I did. You, however, have a much better attitude than I did. Glad to hear it worked, and hopefully reduced the mountain of wheel weights.

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