Replacing front & rear speakers with Kicker CS series

[FastHamFreddy]

If you have not already purchased the CS speakers, go with the KS series since it includes the adapters that will fit the truck. Also, don't forget you will need tweeter adapters, and wire harnesses for the doors and if it's in the budget, block-off plates will help a lot.

got the wire harnesses and plate adaptors. Don’t have the funds for block off plates, but did get soundskins, deadener, and some weatherstripping.

Went with the JBL GTO series for the speakers.

waS trying to keep it under $300.

like the idea of the powered subwoofer down the road, but may not be fora few months.

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[FastHamFreddy]

Yes, they will work and fit right in place.
The HS10 can be used, a powered 10" sub, just tap for signal form front door speakers. Can add later.

I found in another thread that you suggested a kicker keylock with the hs10.

have you already used this product on your f150 so you know the front door wires pulls thecorrect frequency for this sub, and if so would all f150s be the same?

If so, would you suggest that product to run the “pink noise” ect. To properly tune the system? Or would the system sound fine with just tapping the hs10 directly into the front door?

 

[Graygoose2021]

KEYLOC is if you want to flatten the factory equalization. The B&O for sure has that. The front door should be full range, so thats all the HS10 should need, just to turn it on.

 

[FastHamFreddy]

So after purchasing the speakers and doing some more research, I have come to find out that my truck (basic audio package NON B&O) has no amplifier. Would be thankful if anyone could shed some light on this.

Does this mean the speakers will still be very quiet and distorted at higher levels?

If I were to put in an amplifier, how do I run the speaker wires from the doors to the amp, and what other components do I need to ensure I would still be able to use the speakers and the stereo as stock?

The more I read the more confusing this gets as I am not finding much for the new F150's and finding things regarding crossovers, line output converters, LC2i, etc.

Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated!

 

[Graygoose2021]

You can still run them off the factory power. You dont have another amplifier. You can add a 4 channel amp to power all the speakers, or a 5 channel and add a sub. If you were to add one, Id do a 5 channel now. Cause you will later want a small sub.

Reach out to @SoundsGoodStereo , they can help make the install much easier

 

[JJSnell]

So it's been awhile since I've done anything audio. The last thing I did was outfit my boat with new speakers and everything recommended by everybody was JL audio. Is JL audio not a player nowadays?

 

[FastHamFreddy]

So it's been awhile since I've done anything audio. The last thing I did was outfit my boat with new speakers and everything recommended by everybody was JL audio. Is JL audio not a player nowadays?

From all my research they are, however not looking to spend that kind of money. Just want something that can be louder and clearer. So likely as suggested a 5-channel amp with the JBL GTO speakers will do, and trying to find a simple sub and box around $200 that can fit behind my back seat will do for me.

JL from my understanding makes a great product, but the price tag reflects it, and it's not necessary for what I am doing.

 

[JJSnell]

Ok got ya and I understand where ya coming from

 

[FastHamFreddy]

You can still run them off the factory power. You dont have another amplifier. You can add a 4 channel amp to power all the speakers, or a 5 channel and add a sub. If you were to add one, Id do a 5 channel now. Cause you will later want a small sub.

Reach out to @SoundsGoodStereo , they can help make the install much easier

Thanks again!

 

[FastHamFreddy]

If anyone could chime in and tell me if I am correct on this it would be greatly appreciated!

So I got the JBL 6x9 & 6.5" speakers for the front and back of the truck. Looking to add an amp for the 4 speakers and want to put a Kicker HS10 in the rear.

Want all of this to work with the truck as if it were factory, so the fade, balance, and adjustment of the treble bass, etc. would work as if it just came off the showroom floor (or as it does now), and to not have it shut on and off as the powerboost engine operates.

Question is, does my list of items meet what I am trying to do?


JBL 6x9 (5-100 watts RMS 300 watts peak) RMS& 6.5" (5-60 watts RMS 180 watts peak) speakers

Metra Mounts for doors to fit

Metra Wiring harness

Scosche LOC2SL line output converter

RCA cables to run from the Line Output Converter to the amp

ANL fuse holder & Fuse for the power cord

Power wire to run from the battery under the hood to the amp

Power wire to run from the batter under the hood to the Kicker HS10

Ground wire to run from the amp to a ground connection

Ground wire to run from the Kicker HS10 to a ground connection

4-channel Pioneer Pio GM-D8704 FD 4-Channel Amp (100 watts RMS)

Speaker wire to tap into the driver side front door speaker and run to the Kicker HS10

Do I need to run speaker wire from the speaker to the 4-channel amp? and if I do, will I just tap into the Metra Harness, or is that not needed since the output converter is connected to the header and amp and the amp will be providing the power to the speakers through the header?

Also, with a 4-channel amp setup, will I need to run the speaker wire from the Kicker HS10 and tap into the front driver's door speaker still, or will I just need to run it over to the 4-channel amp and plug it in?

Any input would be helpful if this setup will work, or if there is something I am missing or still need to add to get it to work and function as I want it to.

Thanks again all!

 

[Jersey devil]

I'd recommend losing the line output converter, and RCA'S and get in touch with either soundsgoodstereo or plugnplaykits and have them make you a harness. Everything plugs into it so it makes things much easier. It'll cost ya anywhere from 250-300 but worth the money.

 

[FastHamFreddy]

I'd recommend losing the line output converter, and RCA'S and get in touch with either soundsgoodstereo or plugnplaykits and have them make you a harness. Everything plugs into it so it makes things much easier. It'll cost ya anywhere from 250-300 but worth the money.

Because if there is an item that can do the same thing and cost 30 times less then I would rather do that.

 

[Graygoose2021]

If anyone could chime in and tell me if I am correct on this it would be greatly appreciated!

So I got the JBL 6x9 & 6.5" speakers for the front and back of the truck. Looking to add an amp for the 4 speakers and want to put a Kicker HS10 in the rear.

Want all of this to work with the truck as if it were factory, so the fade, balance, and adjustment of the treble bass, etc. would work as if it just came off the showroom floor (or as it does now), and to not have it shut on and off as the powerboost engine operates.

Question is, does my list of items meet what I am trying to do?


JBL 6x9 (5-100 watts RMS 300 watts peak) RMS& 6.5" (5-60 watts RMS 180 watts peak) speakers

Metra Mounts for doors to fit

Metra Wiring harness

Scosche LOC2SL line output converter

RCA cables to run from the Line Output Converter to the amp

ANL fuse holder & Fuse for the power cord

Power wire to run from the battery under the hood to the amp

Power wire to run from the batter under the hood to the Kicker HS10

Ground wire to run from the amp to a ground connection

Ground wire to run from the Kicker HS10 to a ground connection

4-channel Pioneer Pio GM-D8704 FD 4-Channel Amp (100 watts RMS)

Speaker wire to tap into the driver side front door speaker and run to the Kicker HS10

If he got the Kicker CXA3604, you wont need an LOC, it can take speaker level right to the inputs.
So takes LOC out of the equation.
If you get the Kicker CS or KS, comes with the installation adapters for installtion in the doors.
Id run new speaker wires to all four doors.


The HS10 comes with everything you need in the harness. Power to battery, ground, fuse, remote, etc

 

[FastHamFreddy]

If he got the Kicker CXA3604, you wont need an LOC, it can take speaker level right to the inputs.
So takes LOC out of the equation.
If you get the Kicker CS or KS, comes with the installation adapters for installtion in the doors.
Id run new speaker wires to all four doors.


The HS10 comes with everything you need in the harness. Power to battery, ground, fuse, remote, etc

Thanks,

So when running the new wire from the amp to the speakers, will I just tie the new speaker wire directly to the speaker positive and negative? Or will I need to tap into the positive and negative on the harness going to the speaker?

 

[Graygoose2021]

You can get OEM style plugs from Metra/Crutchfield if you like, and run from amp, all the way to the speakers. Some dont, they reuse factory wiring, but adding a better/larger speaker wire is optimal.

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