Dude I registered on this form JUST to thank you for this. Nothing else I tried worked, like "jumping" the switch cables to make it go up. I was about to just leave my window taped up when I came across this and decided to give this a shot and bam, my windows work no problem now!! THANK YOU!I had the back passenger window get stuck down this past weekend. Tapped the window down button to crack window, let go, and the window proceeded to roll all the way down and then would not come back up. I was 4.5 hours from home in TX in August, so the ride back was unpleasant!
2022 F150 Lariat, Kansas City Assembly, built early 2022 or late 2021.
Found this thread, that pointed me toward the driver's side switch panel, thanks all!. Called the dealer and they told me I'd need to drop my truck off and let it sit with window down for 3-4 weeks before they'd get to it, no thanks Covert Ford!
I took my door panel off, which wasn't too bad, but I don't think you even have to do that to get to the switch. You can use a plastic pry tool to remove the entire switch bezel on the driver's door.
Once you get the bezel out, remove 3 T10 screws and you have a switch assembly.
You can then remove the bottom of the switch housing by prying on the perimeter press tabs.
The problem with my unit was in the housing screwed to the printed circuit board (PCB). This housing contains tracks where your switch buttons actuate metal contacts that touch the PCB. Remove the two small phillips screws and the housing comes off.
If you then pop the two white housings apart, you might see something like this (look at misaligned white plastic "finger")
The issue with my switch seemed to be interference with the bent/warped plastic finger and the adjacent finger/metal contact.
I ended up doing two things that resulted in my ability to raise the window. I'll qualify this by saying it isn't a long term fix, and you might be able to get away with just #2!
1) placed a small folded paper between the gold contacts and the black clamp that holds them in place. This put a little more pressure "up" on the white plastic fingers
2) placed another small folded piece of paper between the white plastic finger that was angled to the right in the picture, and it's neighbor. This was intended to keep it centered on its corresponding metal contact.
<didn't get a picture of this, but it was a small piece of paper I managed to wedge in there>
Reassembled, and was able to raise the window while I wait on my replacement part! Hopefully this helps someone get their window back up!
You wouldn’t happen to remember what pin has the 12v and which pin is for the rear passanger window? I assume you applied the 12v From the master switch at the drivers’ side door, correct?
Actually, I used an external 12v battery I had on hand, and applied it directly at the failed window. I just disconnected the window motor harness in the door, where you only have two contact options, instead of trying to identify the pins at the master switch.
Thanks so much for this post. My '21 did this tonight and I was able to get it closed in about 15 min thanks to this post. New part on order!I had the back passenger window get stuck down this past weekend. Tapped the window down button to crack window, let go, and the window proceeded to roll all the way down and then would not come back up. I was 4.5 hours from home in TX in August, so the ride back was unpleasant!
2022 F150 Lariat, Kansas City Assembly, built early 2022 or late 2021.
Found this thread, that pointed me toward the driver's side switch panel, thanks all!. Called the dealer and they told me I'd need to drop my truck off and let it sit with window down for 3-4 weeks before they'd get to it, no thanks Covert Ford!
I took my door panel off, which wasn't too bad, but I don't think you even have to do that to get to the switch. You can use a plastic pry tool to remove the entire switch bezel on the driver's door.
Once you get the bezel out, remove 3 T10 screws and you have a switch assembly.
You can then remove the bottom of the switch housing by prying on the perimeter press tabs.
The problem with my unit was in the housing screwed to the printed circuit board (PCB). This housing contains tracks where your switch buttons actuate metal contacts that touch the PCB. Remove the two small phillips screws and the housing comes off.
If you then pop the two white housings apart, you might see something like this (look at misaligned white plastic "finger")
The issue with my switch seemed to be interference with the bent/warped plastic finger and the adjacent finger/metal contact.
I ended up doing two things that resulted in my ability to raise the window. I'll qualify this by saying it isn't a long term fix, and you might be able to get away with just #2!
1) placed a small folded paper between the gold contacts and the black clamp that holds them in place. This put a little more pressure "up" on the white plastic fingers
2) placed another small folded piece of paper between the white plastic finger that was angled to the right in the picture, and it's neighbor. This was intended to keep it centered on its corresponding metal contact.
<didn't get a picture of this, but it was a small piece of paper I managed to wedge in there>
Reassembled, and was able to raise the window while I wait on my replacement part! Hopefully this helps someone get their window back up!
Same. Just fixed this issue in 15 mins and the dealer was going to need at least a week just to fit the truck into their schedule.
