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I have a 21 lariat PB. It has the locking diff. It seems most of the time for me it’s a limited slip. Locking with the button is definitely a full lock. It will chatter the tires in a tight turn like an old race car with a spool locked rear end.

Thanks so much for this post. My '21 did this tonight and I was able to get it closed in about 15 min thanks to this post. New part on order!

Any chance this will work on a 21 PB?

I wonder if our forscan experts know of a way to load different screens to the main gauge cluster? Like the raptor or upgrade to the 24 style? It has to be doable. Just like changing to a different startup screen

It's time to replace the stock tires on my '21 lariat 2wd. I have the stock 265's on factory 18 wheels and want something the same width but a little taller to fill the wheel well a little more. And size suggestions? Looking for a decent mileage tire also. I drive almost 1k miles a week.

I can see it with a scan tool for ecm voltage and my radar detector shows voltage. It may be higher in the 12 volt range. I haven’t looked at it in a while. But I run a ham radio that really doesn’t like anything below 13.5v or so. It is a powerboost. Is there any way to adjust that voltage...

Sometimes you have to have a beer about it ??

Not to hijack this thread but speaking of battery voltage, is there a way to up the system voltage? When my headlights are on the system is just over 14 volts. Under normal operation it’s like 12.2. I have accessories that don’t like not having 13.8 to them. If there is a solution could you...

My understanding is if LTFT is able to shift to a point that STFT can keep up and stay near zero and the oxygen sensors are showing good afr then it should be fine. We’ll see I guess.

Maybe I'm crazy but I have ran e85 all the way up to 100% in my 21 powerboost with no problems. It will set a code eventually claiming lean because the LTFT has to shift too far out of spec to make the lambda happy. The short term trim easily stays at near 0 and it runs fine. I don't push it...

Hopefully it stays gone for good. Mine has been good since the part was changed. I heard it was an updated part. For a while they were backordered because so many were failing. I think the majority of those were from them leaking coolant and some for the noise. No harm in waiting I guess.

I’m curious. Keep us posted if it fixes it.

I had the same issue I think around 30,000. Mine was the heat exchanger but other found it was the turbo actuator. Hope you get it fixed!

Cool. May or may not be what it is in your case but thought I’d share.

I took them a while to figure out the problem. I was without the truck for a week. Im thinking it only took a day to fix once they had the problem. they changed the inverter and it didn't fix it and they found a blown fuse. so to save money I guess they fixed the fuse and then put the old...

This happened to me. In my case to was a bad inverter. Fixed under warranty.

Glad you got it fixed. Mine would chirp as the ICE turned off. Never when it would start back up. I learned something new to watch out for. Thanks for sharing the ticket.

I’m curious about this too. Waste gates wouldn’t be doing anything at idle in your garage I would think. But that’s just my guess.

I think it’s just a bad design. Mine failed at about 13,000 miles. I’m at 47,000 now with no more issues. It does get embarrassing when it sounds like you ran over a dogs tail every time it does it.

Again it’s a warranty issue that goes along with the heat exchanger leaking and or jamming closed causing a derate on the ICE. New/ upgraded part fixes this. They’re also online for around $200. Quick fix, it’s just a segment of the exhaust they swap out.