Rate my Audio System: Regular Cab Upgrade $2000!?

[ProperRCLB]

Just got a quote for:

JL Audio 8" Sub 8W3v3 $429
JL Audio C2 Speakers $329
AudioControl D4 800 rated at 125 RMS x 4 $699
Labor $500
Taxes $150
Total: $2100 + anything they spend on cables, adapters, fittings, etc.

Do I really need all this? My last audio setup was back in 2006 so bare with me here. It was a single 8W7 and was enough for me. Not looking to shake the neighbors windows, more so a OEM+ upgrade where quality > quantity (loudness).

What I'm thinking is getting the following so please rate my system:

JL Audio 8" Self-Powered Sub 8W3v3 $649
JL Audio C2 Speakers $329
Kicker 47Key200.4 Subwoofer with DSP $299
DIY
$1,200

Thoughts?

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[rugedraw]

IMO: In a regular cab, option two will be enough.

 

[JCsTruck]

JL Audio 8" Self-Powered Sub 8W3v3 $649 Very good subwoofer. I have the non powered version.
JL Audio C2 Speakers $329 There is better but these wont disappoint for a coaxial speaker. Go with 6x9 if you want better mid-bass with adapter.
Kicker 47Key200.4 Subwoofer with DSP $299 Very good self tuning amplifer and the time alignment will make a huge difference.
DIY
$1,200

I wish you could have heard my sound system in my 2014 RCLB F-150 before I removed it. I had a sundown Audio SD3 in a custom ported enclosure tuned to 30 Hz that fit behind my back seat that I designed and built myself using BassBox Pro. I had JL Twk88 and Fix DSP’s, Mosconi, Pioneer, and JBA amplifiers feeding a three way active system with JL C5 midbass, AudioFrog GB25 midrange, and AudioFrog GB 10 tweeters. This was all tuned by me and that system was awesome! It would send chills down my spine and give me goosebumps with somegs like Dire Straits Money for Nothing. That was an awesome SQ system! I still have all that equipment including many other components and amplifiers.

Look up JCsAudio on DIYMobile Audio forum. That was me. ? You wont go wrong with the components you chose for a basic system.

 

[ProperRCLB]

JL Audio 8" Self-Powered Sub 8W3v3 $649 Very good subwoofer. I have the non powered version.
JL Audio C2 Speakers $329 There is better but these wont disappoint for a coaxial speaker. Go with 6x9 if you want better mid-bass with adapter.
Kicker 47Key200.4 Subwoofer with DSP $299 Very good self tuning amplifer and the time alignment will make a huge difference.
DIY
$1,200

I wish you could have heard my sound system in my 2014 RCLB F-150 before I removed it. I had a sundown Audio SD3 in a custom ported enclosure tuned to 30 Hz that fit behind my back seat that I designed and built myself using BassBox Pro. I had JL Twk88 and Fix DSP’s, Mosconi, Pioneer, and JBA amplifiers feeding a three way active system with JL C5 midbass, AudioFrog GB25 midrange, and AudioFrog GB 10 tweeters. This was all tuned by me and that system was awesome! It would send chills down my spine and give me goosebumps with somegs like Dire Straits Money for Nothing. That was an awesome SQ system! I still have all that equipment including many other components and amplifiers.

Look up JCsAudio on DIYMobile Audio forum. That was me. ? You wont go wrong with the components you chose for a basic system.

I just drooled with this reply! Do it again in your 2024! I honestly absolutely love this truck and plan on keeping it for a very very long time (10-15 years easily).

Would the power of the D4.800 be a better alternative and go with a non-powered W3 sub instead? It’s only $150 more and gives me a total 125 RMS x2 for the fronts.

what fronts do you recommend within a similar budget?

 

[ProperRCLB]

IMO: In a regular cab, option two will be enough.

Would you advice retrofitting a center channel?

 

[rugedraw]

Would you advice retrofitting a center channel?

I don't think it's necessary. Not sure if the Keyloc supports it, either.

 

[JCsTruck]

I just drooled with this reply! Do it again in your 2024! I honestly absolutely love this truck and plan on keeping it for a very very long time (10-15 years easily).

Would the power of the D4.800 be a better alternative and go with a non-powered W3 sub instead? It’s only $150 more and gives me a total 125 RMS x2 for the fronts.

what fronts do you recommend within a similar budget?

The AudioControl amplifier is nice but you wont notice a difference because and you won’t use all that power on JL C2 coaxial speakers. Most midbass speakers will only use around 5 to 25 watts on music at normal listen levels and then it goes down from there for the midrange driver and the tweeter uses even less.

The subwoofer is what needs the most power but that JL mico sub is ported so it doesn't need as much power as a sealed subwoofer needs to make good low end bass because it takes advantage of the back sound wave from the speaker. The JL self powered subs are very well engineered and if you’re just looking for a little added low end bass then this will work well especially in a small cabin like yours.

I would invest in some sound deadening for the doors and even better I would seal off the hole in the door for better mid bass. Resonix sound solutions makes the best sound deadening on the market.

Dont bother with a center channel unless you’re looking for a two seat tune and then you’re talking advanced DSP stuff. Stick with a single seat tune which is what the Kicker Key should do with the time alignment centered on your listening position. If it tunes correctly then the music should sound like it is coming from out in front of you like if you closed your eyes and just listened.

I do plan to do my new truck over with a full three way active system based on a JL VX800/8i and AudioFrog drivers

 

[ProperRCLB]

The AudioControl amplifier is nice but you wont notice a difference because and you won’t use all that power on JL C2 coaxial speakers. Most midbass speakers will only use around 5 to 25 watts on music at normal listen levels and then it goes down from there for the midrange driver and the tweeter uses even less.

The subwoofer is what needs the most power but that JL mico sub is ported so it doesn't need as much power as a sealed subwoofer needs to make good low end bass because it takes advantage of the back sound wave from the speaker. The JL self powered subs are very well engineered and if you’re just looking for a little added low end bass then this will work well especially in a small cabin like yours.

I would invest in some sound deadening for the doors and even better I would seal off the hole in the door for better mid bass. Resonix sound solutions makes the best sound deadening on the market.

Dont bother with a center channel unless you’re looking for a two seat tune and then you’re talking advanced DSP stuff. Stick with a single seat tune which is what the Kicker Key should do with the time alignment centered on your listening position. If it tunes correctly then the music should sound like it is coming from out in front of you like if you closed your eyes and just listened.

I do plan to do my new truck over with a full three way active system based on a JL VX800/8i and AudioFrog drivers

Not sure if you have seen my built thread but I have full sound deadening on doors, door panels, rear wall, floor, and roof. Also the A and B pillars.

All done with Resonix CLDs, FiberMat and Guardian.

 

[JCsTruck]

I do remember now. I sometimes forget who is who on here and who did what. ?

 

[ProperRCLB]

After some feedback here is the final set up:


JL Audio 8" Sub 8W3v3 $429
JL Audio RD500/1 Amplifier
JL Audio C2 Component Speakers $329
Kicker KEY200.4 Amplifier
Hush Audio PnP Harness

Will be installing the Kicker amp behind the radio and the RD500/1 behind seats in rear wall.

Let me know if I’m missing anything here. Thank you everyone for all the feedback here and via DM.

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