Pro Power for RV

[Blueonblue]

So my truck has the 7.2kw pro power. Plugged the trailer into the 220 plug but then it hit me. It's a 30amp 120 service. So when I get everything running in the trailer it maxes out and shuts off when we run the microwave.

Anyone know of a way to use the entire 7.2kw single phase?

I guess I can change my trailer over to a 50 amp service. Which is just more money lol and sort of useless as the generator on the trailer is a 4000w single phase.

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[Snakebitten]

A 30 Amp RV running on a 30Amp ProPower generator.

Pretty much the same thing as running off of shore power.

I guess you could completely rewire your RV for an RV 50Amp service though.

 

[Antimatter22]

So my truck has the 7.2kw pro power. Plugged the trailer into the 220 plug but then it hit me. It's a 30amp 120 service. So when I get everything running in the trailer it maxes out and shuts off when we run the microwave.

Anyone know of a way to use the entire 7.2kw single phase?

I guess I can change my trailer over to a 50 amp service. Which is just more money lol and sort of useless as the generator on the trailer is a 4000w single phase.

From my understanding it's two 3.6kW inverters, one phase for each. You can't pull the full 7.2 from one phase.

 

[Samson16]

So my truck has the 7.2kw pro power. Plugged the trailer into the 220 plug but then it hit me. It's a 30amp 120 service. So when I get everything running in the trailer it maxes out and shuts off when we run the microwave.

Anyone know of a way to use the entire 7.2kw single phase?

I guess I can change my trailer over to a 50 amp service. Which is just more money lol and sort of useless as the generator on the trailer is a 4000w single phase.

When you say "plugged the trailer into the 220 plug" what exactly did you do?

120V x 60A = 7.2kW just for discussion purposes.

The 30A twist lock 240V outlet in the truck bed consists of 2 separate 120V/30A circuits that are 180 degrees out of phase with one another. It's sometimes called single phase 240V or split phase 240V.

You can use both 120V/30A circuits. One would connect to your RV shore power inlet in replace of, well, shore power. The other circuit you would need to build in order to run additional outlets in your RV for things like electric heaters, dehumidifiers etc.

One last thing, the 30A smart circuit breaker in the truck may be more sensitive to start up current draw than the breaker on the pedestal at RV parks etc.

 

[Blueonblue]

You guys are so right. Thanks all. So the trailer plug only has 1 hot 1 neutral and 1 ground. Twist lock has 2 hot 1 neutral and a ground. So I'm going to make a plug that splits the hots. One will go directly into the AC and the other phase will do all the trailer plugs. Got some wiring to do this week! Thanks all.

 

[UGADawg96]

You could maybe use combination of these cables to get two 30amp circuits if you really need to split your trailer load.

However, maybe you just need to install a soft start and then your trailer wouldn't have as much inrush.

 

[Samson16]

You guys are so right. Thanks all. So the trailer plug only has 1 hot 1 neutral and 1 ground. Twist lock has 2 hot 1 neutral and a ground. So I'm going to make a plug that splits the hots. One will go directly into the AC and the other phase will do all the trailer plugs. Got some wiring to do this week! Thanks all.

Dawg had some great suggestions. The trailer 30A service panel is like our home service panels. If you add up the amperage ratings of all the breakers it exceeds 30A because rarely if ever do we have everything on at once and drawing maximum current. Your AC compressor and microwave oven are both high demand items. The AC kicking on while you're microwaving is reasonably rare but it happens. MicroAir makes a soft start device that greatly reduces start up current demand for AC compressors. You'll see that start up demand called inrush current or locked rotor current. It spikes very high momentarily to get the rotor electrically unstuck, then drops significantly while running.

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