Powerboost Exhaust Heat Exchanger Delete

[Samson16]

Back on topic, I looked up the plastic code on the connectors and they're HDPE. There are adhesives that will bond PE, see below. I'm getting a 1.5" square bar of HDPE, and I'll drill out 3/4" holes at right angles, one lengthwise nearly to the end and a second at a right angle that intersects the lengthwise hole. I'll then cut the QD fitting part off of two of the connectors and glue them into the 3/4" holes. Thus I'll have QD fittings mimicking the position of the fittings on the heat exchanger.

I'll try the spud connector first, and if that doesn't trigger temp sensor codes, then I'll install the bypass part described above. If it's happy like that for 2 days then I'm getting the exhaust done.

At this point, I'm thinking a full dual 3" system with high flow cats, h-pipe, flow master DBX series mufflers and side exit if it fits.

https://www.chemical-concepts.com/product/permabond-ta4631/

Last question: has anyone gone into limp mode for the temp sensor mismatch codes? Part of my plan is to have those temp mismatch codes during the winter months and ignore them until the summer when I get the truck inspected. That's not going to work if it goes into limp mode over the codes.

Sorry for being a part of the hijacking. Permabond looks like JBWeld for PE and HDPE. Good find and hope the sensor bypass operation is successful.

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[RcFlyer330]

Back on topic, I looked up the plastic code on the connectors and they're HDPE. There are adhesives that will bond PE, see below. I'm getting a 1.5" square bar of HDPE, and I'll drill out 3/4" holes at right angles, one lengthwise nearly to the end and a second at a right angle that intersects the lengthwise hole. I'll then cut the QD fitting part off of two of the connectors and glue them into the 3/4" holes. Thus I'll have QD fittings mimicking the position of the fittings on the heat exchanger.

I'll try the spud connector first, and if that doesn't trigger temp sensor codes, then I'll install the bypass part described above. If it's happy like that for 2 days then I'm getting the exhaust done.

At this point, I'm thinking a full dual 3" system with high flow cats, h-pipe, flow master DBX series mufflers and side exit if it fits.

https://www.chemical-concepts.com/product/permabond-ta4631/

Last question: has anyone gone into limp mode for the temp sensor mismatch codes? Part of my plan is to have those temp mismatch codes during the winter months and ignore them until the summer when I get the truck inspected. That's not going to work if it goes into limp mode over the codes.

I think you may want to look at the plastic code again HDPE doesnt sound right for a pressurized and hot cooling system part. HDPE is what most plastic jugs are made out of and has a low melting point. plastic coolant parts are usually made out of PA66 nylon with glass fiber reinforcement for strength. I went and looked at my heat exchanger connectors and the plastic code on them is PPA 33GF which is polyphthalamide reinforced with 33% glass fiber.

 

[Snakebitten]

Didn't Iceman find a metal sleeve of the proper OD for coupling?
I seem to remember an image in the Exhaust Heat exchanger thread?

 

[amschind]

I think you may want to look at the plastic code again HDPE doesnt sound right for a pressurized and hot cooling system part. HDPE is what most plastic jugs are made out of and has a low melting point. plastic coolant parts are usually made out of PA66 nylon with glass fiber reinforcement for strength. I went and looked at my heat exchanger connectors and the plastic code on them is PPA 33GF which is polyphthalamide reinforced with 33% glass fiber.

I was going off of the #2 on it, but I agree it feels more like glass reinforced plastic. I would much prefer an aluminum part to avoid having it wiggle apart, but I'm not sure what the fitting is.

 

[RcFlyer330]

I was going off of the #2 on it, but I agree it feels more like glass reinforced plastic. I would much prefer an aluminum part to avoid having it wiggle apart, but I'm not sure what the fitting is.

The #2 thats on the on the other side of the part in the picture below doesnt mean anything or at least not to the plastic type. as you can see in the picture it is PPA+33%GF

Having the part made of metal would be the best solution or a one piece plastic one of the correct type.

 

[amschind]

The #2 thats on the on the other side of the part in the picture below doesnt mean anything or at least not to the plastic type. as you can see in the picture it is PPA+33%GF

Having the part made of metal would be the best solution or a one piece plastic one of the correct type.

One piece plastic is out because I'm not gonna spend $150k+ to engineer and build a mold for it. However, I bought some 3/4" OD aluminum tube, and I can pretty easily have a 90 bent into that. At that point, all I would need is a pair of aluminum connectors to weld one to the tube: just slide them on and weld it, which should be way stronger than needed. The issue is figuring out what the connector is called.

 

[amschind]

I got the nice lady at the local Ford parts department to track the end connector from the coolant line to the heat exchanger down. It was $100, so I bought that to test fit connectors. It has a hose clamp on the other end, so my other option is to just get a length of hose and clamp that on to the two temperature sensors. Either solution should be reversible.

I may turn to this thread again for help on identifying the hose type.

 

[amschind]

Update: the local Ford techs are awesome. The temperature sensors are double ended 3/4" barbed heater hose, which means that a standard 3/4" hose will fit. As of now, my plan is to remove the hose at the temperature sensor hose barb and plumb in a length of hose and then use a formed U-hose that I found on Amazon. All of that is standard barb fittings and hose clamps. The end result will be a U shaped hose connecting the parallel inlet and outlet hoses from the rest of the engine cooling system. I'll cover it all with 1" fiberglass heat wrap.

All of that depends upon installing the spud connector that disables the exhaust valve; if that works AND doesn't immediately set off "temperature mismatch" codes from the temperature sensors, then I'm in business and will perform the above mod.

Total cost for the whole thing is $160 shipped, with most of that being the $86 for the spud connector. I bet the hose and hose clamps could be had for less, and the U hose and heat wrap were like $45 shipped off Amazon and I bet that's as cheap as you'd want to go.

My big remaining questions for others are:
1) for folks whose exhaust diverter valve failed, did your truck go into limp mode due to the fault?
2) for folks who had to replace the plastic elbow connector, did the bubble introduced into coolant line purge itself?

Links:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BS6W4K1G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09VDHRS6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-28492-...S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=3/4"+heater+hose&sr=8-4
https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/servo-buddy-bmw-2010-2017?sku_id=1185159

 

[Snakebitten]

Ahhhh, renewed vigor!

In my opinion, if you can, and I absolutely believe you can, create the coolant loop bypass.....
AND you can attach the servo-buddy to the servo valve, which I'm optimistic will work because it has for many vehicles using that same servo

Then the only obstacle is the potential issues that the coolant temp sensors present. I'm hoping worst case scenario is they throw their DTC's, but that they are "soft DTC's". Similar to the DTC that I will forever have with my Intercooler louver motor operating out of range. (I removed the louvers. I live in the tropics)

Anyways, nice to see you get back in the ring. This fight ain't over. Lol

 

[amschind]

Ahhhh, renewed vigor!

In my opinion, if you can, and I absolutely believe you can, create the coolant loop bypass.....
AND you can attach the servo-buddy to the servo valve, which I'm optimistic will work because it has for many vehicles using that same servo

Then the only obstacle is the potential issues that the coolant temp sensors present. I'm hoping worst case scenario is they throw their DTC's, but that they are "soft DTC's". Similar to the DTC that I will forever have with my Intercooler louver motor operating out of range. (I removed the louvers. I live in the tropics)

Anyways, nice to see you get back in the ring. This fight ain't over. Lol

The other issue is: will that DTC prevent me from passing inspection? We both live in Texas, where they just run the computer for fault codes. If yes, then keeping this mod long term depends upon whether the system will immediately throw a temperature mismatch code or if it will wait until cold weather with the heat on. If the latter, then I can just clear codes and get the truck inspected in September and be fine. If the former, then it's gonna be an issue.

 

[Snakebitten]

Once a year I'd be willing to throw it up on the rack and plug it all back in.

But I'm spoiled a bit. Just have to move a couple of toys out of the lane in the barn ?

 

[amschind]

When I see someone with a lift, I think about how the good book tells us not to envy our neighbor, but I go ahead and do it anyway. How tall is the ceiling there to allow you to lift a truck?

 

[Snakebitten]

I think 14' to the bottom of the trusses.
But I'm 6' 1" and with the truck on the lift I can't just stand tall and walk under it without caution.

Doesn't matter though. I use a roll around office chair and usually lift whatever vehicle to the appropriate height for what is a comfortable reach. And it's all about the lighting too.
I'm old. So I just lalligag and take more time prepping and staging the tools I'll need on a rolling cart. Finding the right Playlist to listen to. And making sure my ice tea thermos is cold.

If it's not going to be enjoyable, I'll find something else to do that is. Lol

It's great to get old. At least in some ways.

 

[UGADawg96]

I think 14' to the bottom of the trusses.
But I'm 6' 1" and with the truck on the lift I can't just stand tall and walk under it without caution.

Doesn't matter though. I use a roll around office chair and usually lift whatever vehicle to the appropriate height for what is a comfortable reach. And it's all about the lighting too.
I'm old. So I just lalligag and take more time prepping and staging the tools I'll need on a rolling cart. Finding the right Playlist to listen to. And making sure my ice tea thermos is cold.

If it's not going to be enjoyable, I'll find something else to do that is. Lol

It's great to get old. At least in some ways.

I dream of being a relaxed king like you in my retirement.

 

[amschind]

The only thing I came across regarding overheating was the valve that sends the coolant to the exhaust had a malfunction (seemed like a bad batch w/ similar build dates). That caused the truck to throw a overheat malfunction, but it was really just an issue with the heat exchanger malfunctioning causing the water to either move or not move spiking the return gauge's temp.

This helps A LOT. The rare reports of limp mode due to heat exchanger failures were a major concern for me doing the delete.

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