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Onboard Modem Unresponsive

Fred Kaluza

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I bought a stripped-down version of 2020 F-150 in Nov 2020. No fancy radio, no custom wheels, just 4WD and an 8 foot cargo bed. No key fob etc. it has hand crank windows and manual door locks. I would have got a manual transmission too but sadly no longer offered. The window sticker made no mention of ”telematics” etc. Curious me however loaded the Ford Pass app on my smart phone, entered my VIN, pressed a few buttons and was more than surprised to see the vehicle “activated”! On the app it showed my tire pressure, miles to empty and my location! I didn’t use the app for months but got curious again recently and found the mileage was way behind and all other data was quite “stale”. I couldn’t get it to update so I removed the vehicle, removed the app and started over. Now nothing works! I called Ford Pass support and they told me my “EWID” has apparently ceased working. The tech said my “electrically-wired-in-device” was no longer communicating and told me to visit a dealership. I did and yesterday the dealership told me my truck does not even have a TCU installed! How can this possibly be?
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Webster

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No idea... My onboard modem just seemed to come back to life on its own.
I've been having the same problem. I will reboot if you remove the fuse and put it back. Its fuse #8/9 in the panel at the passengers feet. (2021 f150). Unfortunately it only words for about 2 days and then I have to repeat. Waiting on getting into the dealer.
 

airwolf1999

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Taking mine to a dealer Wednesday for this same exact issue along with the saggy recall. Will report back if anything is done to fix.
 

JEB

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I've been having the same problem. I will reboot if you remove the fuse and put it back. Its fuse #8/9 in the panel at the passengers feet. (2021 f150). Unfortunately it only words for about 2 days and then I have to repeat. Waiting on getting into the dealer.
I had the same problem. It is out of date software/firmware. OTA 2.3.0 contains new software for the modem (aka TCU) which fixes the problem. The catch 22 is that you need a working modem to get it. Your dealer should be able to flash the new firmware, but they seem to be pretty clueless about the process and don’t be surprised if they tell you that they can’t get the firmware to load and the modem needs to be replaced. Not a very helpful suggestion because the TCUs are backordered. Also not necessary. It’s software, not bad hardware.

Ultimately, after being told that I needed a new modem but they had no idea when they could get their hands on one, I just fixed it myself—bought a programmer on Amazon for $115, a 2-day license for FDRS for $50 and reflashed the modem. It’s been five weeks since the reflash and not a single drop.

If you want to go that route, there is an extensive thread discussing the procedure. You can find it here: https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/ecu-module-programming-guide-using-fdrs.8249/
 

Fred Kaluza

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Oh what fun! I’m learning their are two (at least) separate and distinct wireless telemetry and control systems in Ford products lately. While trying to get Ford Pass to work, I found out that an absolute requirement is to have a wireless modem (which they call the TCU) installed. You either paid extra in your sticker price to get it or can order a kit to be installed via a splitter onto your ODB2 port. Well, I was told by the Telematics folks (not the Ford Pass folks) that my vehicle has something called an EWID module installed instead of a TCU modem. Apparently the EWID does much the same as a TCU but will only work with the Ford Pro Drive app and website but it’s a subscription-based service. As an intro however, there is a free version (neutered) of Ford Pro called Ford Telematics Essentials and they tell me the EWID will be able to interface with this version at the end of March.
 

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klossfam

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Modem 'down' scenario on my 2022 Lightning resolved the same way as others by pulling the 8/9 fuse in the BCM fuse box in the passenger footwell.

Just happened for the first time this weekend at 16,800 miles. Not sure if the sub zero temps dropped the voltage so low in the 12V it lost connection (seems unlikely as truck 'started' in the morning).

Adding this info as it is much easier than disconnecting the 12V etc. You can easily check if the comm failure is the modem by checking the Modem Serial Number in the menu. If the modem is down, this drop down menu will not work. If modem is online, it will display its serial number.
 

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Modem 'down' scenario on my 2022 Lightning resolved the same way as others by pulling the 8/9 fuse in the BCM fuse box in the passenger footwell.

Just happened for the first time this weekend at 16,800 miles. Not sure if the sub zero temps dropped the voltage so low in the 12V it lost connection (seems unlikely as truck 'started' in the morning).

Adding this info as it is much easier than disconnecting the 12V etc. You can easily check if the comm failure is the modem by checking the Modem Serial Number in the menu. If the modem is down, this drop down menu will not work. If modem is online, it will display its serial number.
It is best to unplug it.. Easier isnt better.
 

klossfam

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It is best to unplug it.. Easier isnt better.
Wouldn't pulling the fuse be the same net effect as pulling the 12V (but without effecting other systems)?

Kind of like at home... You wouldn't throw your main breaker to reset your router (?)
 

Jesse-Infotainment

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Wouldn't pulling the fuse be the same net effect as pulling the 12V (but without effecting other systems)?

Kind of like at home... You wouldn't throw your main breaker to reset your router (?)
Not in my opinion..

Its noteven easier. There is a Tab on the back seat to fold it down.. Take 5 second to pull the plug. The fus bos is more difficult to get to than the plug.

You guys do whatever though.> I just came to give my opinion for what its worth.
 

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Wouldn't pulling the fuse be the same net effect as pulling the 12V (but without effecting other systems)?

Kind of like at home... You wouldn't throw your main breaker to reset your router (?)
Not like home at all. If my home modem locked up, I’d unplug my modem. I wouldn’t go into the basement and throw the breaker for the circuit the modem was plugged into. Other things might be plugged into that circuit.

On the F150, the TCU shares a fuse with the combined sensor module. You certain there aren’t any adverse effects with powering that down unnecessarily? I’m not.

@Jesse-Infotainment is recommending unplugging just the modem/TCU, not disconnecting the battery.
 
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klossfam

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Not like home at all. If my home modem locked up, I’d unplug my modem. I wouldn’t go into the basement and throw the breaker for the circuit the modem was plugged into. Other things might be plugged into that circuit.

On the F150, the TCU shares a fuse with the combined sensor module. You certain there aren’t any adverse effects with powering that down unnecessarily? I’m not.
I think you misread my reply. I meant you WOULD NOT power down the whole house to reset a router. As for the fuse pull, I can confirm no issues with the sensors after the fuse pull.

You would be doing the same thing by pulling the 12V or BCM main. My thought on this from the beginning was to power down as little as possible.

Although I wish you could kill the Active Air Dam warnings with FORscan. Mine works fine but still get warnings randomly and even the Ford techs say replacing the two servo motors means you get the new motors and the same warnings.
 

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I think you misread my reply. I meant you WOULD NOT power down the whole house to reset a router. As for the fuse pull, I can confirm no issues with the sensors after the fuse pull.

You would be doing the same thing by pulling the 12V or BCM main. My thought on this from the beginning was to power down as little as possible.

Although I wish you could kill the Active Air Dam warnings with FORscan. Mine works fine but still get warnings randomly and even the Ford techs say replacing the two servo motors means you get the new motors and the same warnings.
Actually, I read your post correctly. Pulling the 8-9 fuse is like throwing the breaker in your basement. Not the main, the individual circuit breaker. If your goal is to depower as little as possible, then the proper course is to leave the fuse alone and just pull the power connector to the TCU. That‘s what you’d do at home.
 

JExpedition07

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Figuring I should try this unplug trick as a last ditch effort before I take it in. Is it in the same location on the supercab? I folded the passenger rear seat down and I have a truck jack behind it and the cab wall is just a black felt panel. There is 2 connectors on the floor but not sure what those go to and they are hard to reach.
 

imnuts

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Pull down the felt and it should be right there. On my SCrew, the edge of the middle is right at the split in the seats, but it wasn't too difficult to get to.
 

goatdriver

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How did you get the push pin out without snapping it off? I’d like to check my connections, as I’m still having same issues as you.
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