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Kicker HS10 owners, where'd you put it?

EcoBeastCA

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I have a Key 200.4 en route from SGS and I kinda have my heart set on an HS10 to replace the garbage factory sub (like I didn't even know my truck had a sub when I bought it!). I was going to mount everything on one of SGS's back racks, but after speaking with them they told me the thickness of the board plus the HS10 won't fit behind the seat. I'm specifically referring to the driver's side; I don't want to sacrifice my jack cause the moment I do I'll probably need it...

I'm also not keen on throwing it under the seat on the floor either. I currently have my emergency equipment there and it works but it's not ideal, the plan was always to move it to the SGS amp board. I like having the full floor space available when needed.

Those of you with HS10s could you please show where and how you mounted yours?
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Graygoose2021

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You could cut some of the rear carpeted panel, like we do for the SGS sub box and mount on back wall.

Ford F-150 Kicker HS10 owners, where'd you put it? 20230424_144841_resized
 

Graygoose2021

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ahh.
 

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Porpoise Hork

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Best bang for the buck would be a set of door block-off plates. They can be installed in a few min and the mid-bass improvement is phenomenal with them and aftermarket speakers. So much so that I decided to pass on adding a sub.

For now. ?



Best part is you can remove them when the lease is up ans sell them. The dealer would never know they were installed.
 
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EcoBeastCA

EcoBeastCA

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Best bang for the buck would be a set of door block-off plates. They can be installed in a few min and the mid-bass improvement is phenomenal with them and aftermarket speakers. So much so that I decided to pass on adding a sub.

For now. ?



Best part is you can remove them when the lease is up ans sell them. The dealer would never know they were installed.
Thanks, I'll order those next week.
 

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catskills837

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EcoBeast I’m looking to go the same route as you and I’ve seen you make a couple posts regarding the Kicker Key and the HS10, have you made any progress on this? You mind pointing me in the direction of where to mount everything and how to wire it all in? I’m a novice but also looking for a minimally invasive, and budget oriented bass upgrade from the almost non-noticeable B&O Sub.
 
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EcoBeastCA

EcoBeastCA

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EcoBeast I’m looking to go the same route as you and I’ve seen you make a couple posts regarding the Kicker Key and the HS10, have you made any progress on this? You mind pointing me in the direction of where to mount everything and how to wire it all in? I’m a novice but also looking for a minimally invasive, and budget oriented bass upgrade from the almost non-noticeable B&O Sub.
Yes, I have mine installed and running. I'm quite happy with it, it puts out very good low bass for its size. It doesn't have a lot of "impulse" punch due to the size of the enclosure, but it's enough for me. Depending on the song it will rattle my rear and side view mirrors.

I mounted mine to a board from Sounds Good Stereo, and that's what I recommend. I had a lot of extra equipment to mount, so it sits roughly in the same spot as the factory. However, with this board you cannot take advantage of the space left behind it.

I found I needed a "seat ahead" kit which moved my back seat slightly up and a few inches forward, as when I tried mocking up the sub with the board before mounting it, it didn't seem like there was enough room. Others report it fits, but I'm skeptical. The other consideration is your seat moves BACK if you lift it, so are these people losing that ability to put the sub there? Mine sure didn't want to fit by the looks of things. Anyway, the seat ahead kit is another worthwhile upgrade. It opens up a ton of space behind the seat and sacrifices almost nothing for leg room.

As far as wiring, you'll need power and ground to and from the battery. I presume you could hook up the sub input by tapping into the original line (I wouldn't cut the OEM connector off), but realize the bass rolloff will still occur after Volume 15 by doing this. The only way to fix that is with something like a Kicker KEYLOC or a Zen Audio NAV-TV which fix all that. Mine is tapped off the outputs from a Kicker KEY200.4 amp which is powering my (replaced) Gladen RS fronts and rears. I didn't bother using the bass knob, I just set the adjustments to a point I liked and left it there and it works for me. You can use the bass adjustment in the truck's audio menu to turn it up and down.

Sadly with the way these trucks' audio systems are designed there is no plug-and-play solution. Everything involves additional wiring, and you get to the point where you say "I've gone this far, I may as well do the rest." I didn't want to spend thousands of dollars improving my sound system, but that's what I ended up doing.

Last thing I'll say is to make this sub sound good, you have to spend a LOT of time tweaking the bass boost and gain. If it sounds disappointing, keep playing with the adjustments. Once I got mine set I was very pleased with it. Just be conscious of its capabilities and know it's going to underperform compared to a "real" sub, and be happy with the compromise because you still have all that space left.

EDIT: you'll notice I bought some rubber furniture pads from Home Depot and put them behind the mounting plates for the sub. I didn't know if they were really necessary but I figured with all that other equipment on there it might not be a bad idea. I drilled through the board and using 10-24 screws 1 1/2" long, I added washers and nyloks once the tightness was good (can't crank them down cause they'll just squash the rubber).

Ford F-150 Kicker HS10 owners, where'd you put it? 1000012337
 
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Pintoracer

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Under the rear seat on the drivers side! Just screwed mine down to the mat. Easily removed!
Ford F-150 Kicker HS10 owners, where'd you put it? IMG_7233
 
 







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