Hear me out, but Console to Column shifter?

[Snakedoctor]

Now that the Super Duties interior matches that of the F150 I’m wondering if the swap may yet be possible.

@Jesse-Infotainment you said if swapped I’d lose the electric and memory steering column. Do you think the F250s could be fit into the F150? I just watched a video about the pro trailer back up assist and swore it was a KR 150 with the column shifter but it’s a Super Duty.

I would absolutely love to have the column shifter opposed to the center console

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[Jesse-Infotainment]

Now that the Super Duties interior matches that of the F150 I’m wondering if the swap may yet be possible.

@Jesse-Infotainment you said if swapped I’d lose the electric and memory steering column. Do you think the F250s could be fit into the F150? I just watched a video about the pro trailer back up assist and swore it was a KR 150 with the column shifter but it’s a Super Duty.

I would absolutely love to have the column shifter opposed to the center console

Yeah.. I have a 23 SuperDUty.. Ive started woring on. THe column is the same BUT the shifter is not.

The SuperDuty uses a Cable shifter not electronic. You cant use the Super Duty Shifter in the F150

So I would have to see if the mounting points match up with the electric F150 shifter.

 

[Snakedoctor]

Yeah.. I have a 23 SuperDUty.. Ive started woring on. THe column is the same BUT the shifter is not.

The SuperDuty uses a Cable shifter not electronic. You cant use the Super Duty Shifter in the F150

So I would have to see if the mounting points match up with the electric F150 shifter.

Let me know if I can be of any help in making it work or in research. My naive thought process is the 23 F250 column but an F150 shifter. I would love the column shifter to free up all that space in the console.

 

[9663mu]

I don’t get why we can’t get a console shifter , just shortened up like the Benz or Tesla etc. the 4 cup hold idea from SD is awesome.

 

[22150]

Throwing my hat in the ring here for interest in swapping from the console shifter to the column shifter in my 501A lariat. I, like many of you, just feel that’s where the shifter is supposed to be.

I reach for a non existent column shift ever since getting the truck a couple weeks ago. My other car has it on the column (Tesla) and it’s definitely the preferred location for me.

 

[amschind]

I would love a knob like the Dodge Ram. I rented one, saw that, and was immediately sold.

 

[Snakedoctor]

Throwing my hat in the ring here for interest in swapping from the console shifter to the column shifter in my 501A lariat. I, like many of you, just feel that’s where the shifter is supposed to be.

I reach for a non existent column shift ever since getting the truck a couple weeks ago. My other car has it on the column (Tesla) and it’s definitely the preferred location for me.

Do you have the electric adjusting steering column and memory feature?

 

[22150]

Do you have the electric adjusting steering column and memory feature?

I do not. Power seats but manual steering column. I think power/memory steering comes with 502A only

 

[Snakedoctor]

I do not. Power seats but manual steering column. I think power/memory steering comes with 502A only

Then you can do the modification. It’s possible with what’s already out there.

 

[22150]

Then you can do the modification. It’s possible with what’s already out there.

Nice. Now just need the time and money to do so.

 

[troy12n]

I honestly have no idea why anyone wouldn’t want a bench seat in a truck, even a crew cab. Even with a manual transmission, you could always fit three or four people in the front of a regular cab. The console shifter takes up way more room than it justifies. It’s even more ridiculous in the Lightning; where they could have easily given a center seat as much legroom as the driver and front passenger. It’s totally annoying when you have a short distance to drive and need to take two vehicles to a place with shitty parking because you can’t fit that one extra person.

I specifically ordered my truck with the 40/20/40 seat option and no console because of this, and other reasons. You can get this on any truck up through XLT 302A. Lariat and above, you have to get the console as of 2023. In 2022 you could still get the 40/20/40 seat on a Lariat 500A, but they discontiued that package in 2023. 501A and higher at least with the 2021+ trucks you could not get the 40/20/40 in a 501A or 502A.

 

[AlwaysSomething]

I wish one of the crafty guys would adapt the expedition knob to the trucks. I hate the clunky shifter but don't necessarily care for it on the column as well.

 

[Lltweed4]

I jsut saw this. I could help you. You will need a new column though. That is the real isssue. If you have a lariat that is going to be $600 - $1000 or so just for the column because it has different mounting for the shifter.

I looked into this. Ill add this. I found a lariat with column shift but you lose memory and electric column. They only make manual adjust column for trucks with column shift

what kind of wire harness would someone need to make this work? Does the console shifter and column have the same connector? Or would you have to make a harness?

 

[vakatack]

Console to Rotary Shifter 2023 Lightning Platinum ~$200

Hey guys, I tried to be thorough here but if anyone has any questions or if I forgot to mention something let me know I’d be happy to explain further. I saw this mentioned a bunch of places but didn’t see it done anywhere so I thought I’d post.

$90 Brand New on eBay

Ford Escape 2020-2022 Shifter - Part # PZ1P-7P55-AC

$50 for all 3 parts

Main Console Tray - ML3Z1513530AA

Console Rubber Mat - ML3Z15045G34JA

Console Plastic Insert - ML3Z15045G34EA

Harness Connectors and Wire - $50

Female Socket Part # 1326133-1 - 2 Pcs

Female Socket Shield Assembly Part # 1326132-1 - 2 Pcs

Male Pin PCB Connector Part # 1438543-1 - 1 Pcs

Receptacle Terminals 1326028-1 - 22 Pcs (order a few extra in case you damage any)

20 Gauge Wire - You can use any wire but I chose to get all different colors. You need 11 wires and about 2 ft of each.

The shifter dial finish is almost an exact match to the dial on the 15” screen and is illuminated. The blue light matches the rest of the interior lights. The dial functions exactly as it should and is very smooth. If the car is in drive and you shut the power, or you open the door, it will immediately shift into park for you without the dial physically rotating. Additionally, the L button in the center functions exactly like the N button for the 30 min neutral mode.

After pulling out the screen, the trailer brake has a few small tabs holding it that just snap right out. You can either throw it behind somewhere, since there’s plenty of space, or if you plan to use it, you can cut out a space for it somewhere else. It seems like under the Power button for the car there is a good space for it. I don’t ever plan on towing anything so I tucked it behind out of the way

The round part of the dial is exactly 3 inches in diameter. I used a 3 inch hole saw to drill out the trim and then a dremel to make the notch for the bottom part. I cut it out on cardboard first to get the exact size then I traced it in its final place before cutting.

The plastic mounting holes on top and bottom of the shifter need to be cut off to allow it to fit snugly and stick out like it’s supposed to. I used a hacksaw to get a clean cut. I also needed to cut some plastic behind the hole to allow it to fit. After fitting the shifter into the trim, I tried pushing the screen back in and was able to see which plastic pieces were interfering. I used a utility knife and dremel for most of the plastic cutting. At the end the shifter was held snug and almost squeezed exactly into place so that it doesn’t need any fasteners. The screen is still snapped in and very sturdy. I was afraid it might be shaking after cutting the plastic but it’s totally fine.

Removing the old console shifter is really simple. The side trim pieces, left and right of the cup holders, pull right out by hand. Then the top of the cup holders plastic trim piece pops up. You can take it off without removing the screen but there are two tabs that are tough to squeeze out. If the screen is off the top plastic trim of the cup holders pulls right up. It’s all connected with plastic tabs so by hand or with a trim tools it’s really easy to take out. After you remove the plastic there are 4 10mm bolts holding the shifter housing. One is underneath the small plastic door in the front, and the other 3 are easily visible. Once you remove them you can slide out the shifter and disconnect the wires. In its place you can put the Console Tray for an OEM finish.

You may want to keep the shifter inside the tray which is as easy as making a small hole for the wire and securing it down and then getting some sort of trim to go over it. I think it’s a total waste of space which is why I put it next to the screen. It does fit inside the tray deep enough to open the workspace for anyone interested.

You need a harness about 24" minimum to extend the cable to reach the new location. After about 2 weeks of searching for a harness or for someone to make me one, I finally decided to make it myself. I was able to find all of the plastic connectors from Digi-Key (linked below). Making the harness was pretty easy. The only tricky part was that they don't sell a straight male connector that you can connect with metal pins. The male connector is meant to be soldered to a circuit board (which I don't really know how to do). Instead I was able to straighten the pins out in order to connect the existing cable in the car to the extension harness. I've added pictures of all of the connections. You need 1 Male Pin Connector and then 2 Female Sockets, and 2 female socket shields to lock the sockets in place. Essentially you are making a female to female cable and then the male connector fits snug into the original female cable. There is no way to lock this connection in place so I used a zip tie to secure it and then zip tied that entire connection down onto an anchor point so that it doesn't move around. You also need the metal terminals that the wire gets attached to. I'm not sure the proper way to connect these but I stripped a bit of wire and squeezed the first metal tabs down onto the bare wire and the lower tab onto the jacket to hold the cable in well. There are 11 wires used out of the 18 sockets. I copied the existing wiring to make the harness and I used 20 gauge wire with a silicone jacket from Amazon. I think the existing wiring is 22 gauge but the 20 worked fine for me. The silicone jacket makes it very flexible. After I put all of the pins in and the connectors on, I just wrapped the cable in a nylon braided sleeve to keep it protected. I ran it along the driver side trim and up behind the screen.

Female Socket Part # 1326133-1

Female Socket Shield Assembly Part # 1326132-1

Male Pin PCB Connector Part # 1438543-1

Receptacle Terminals 1326028-1

 

[amschind]

If I put in that amount of labor and money, I would want a dash mounted knob like the Ram has. The knob in the Ram feels cheap (note that it is indistinguishable from the F150 4WD shifter), but it does the job perfectly and takes up no more room than it absolutely must.

Vehicles today have a ton of user interface decisions made based upon mechanical dictates that have not been true for 10 years. Is a steering wheel the best way to tell an automobile which direction to point its wheels? If you have a shaft geared to the rack and pinion gear, then absolutely, and the bigger the wheel the better, because Grandma isn't getting any younger but she still needs that leverage to pilot her 1974 Oldsmobile to church. If your steering input is purely electric signals to an EPS motor, then maybe a 2' diameter steering wheel that looks like the borrowed it off the USS Missouri isn't ideal any longer.

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