Front coil over install - maybe screwed up? Looking for some help

[rpold150]

I'm installing the Eibach pro truck 2.0 2R. I had a 2" readylift puck. I removed the upper ball joint, end link and tie rod. I may have let the knuckle droop to much. I had to to get the stock coil over with 2" puck out. Now it doesn't feel like the axle wants to go back in. Did I let the axle come too far out? How do I get it back in?

I've tried spinning the rotor trying to find a place where it will fall into place, but I'm not having any luck. Looks like I should have just paid the $600 to have the shop install them...

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[TheGoatman]

Did you get it back in?

You should be able to get it back in, maybe you pulled it out of the spline?

 

[Natetroknot]

Line things up as straight as you can gradually rotate the axle while tapping with a dead blow hammer

it will help if you have a tire on the other side or another person to keep the opposite side from turning while you’re rotating

 

[rpold150]

Did you get it back in?

You should be able to get it back in, maybe you pulled it out of the spline?

No, not yet.

 

[Natetroknot]

It’s hard to tell in that pic but it looks seated in the diff to me?


Does anybody know if the inner cv joint is c clip retained?

 

[rpold150]

Line things up as straight as you can gradually rotate the axle while tapping with a dead blow hammer

it will help if you have a tire on the other side or another person to keep the opposite side from turning while you’re rotating

What should I be tapping on? I asked my wife to watch the other side (tire is off) and she said it wasn't spinning. I'll put the tire on and wedge something under it to keep it from spinning. Do I just spin the rotor and try to lift/push it inwards?

 

[rpold150]

It’s hard to tell in that pic but it looks seated in the diff to me?


Does anybody know if the inner cv joint is c clip retained?

The other side doesn't have the big gap. I'm assuming the whole axle assembly pulled out.

 

[Natetroknot]

If the half shaft slid out then getting it re seated is a matter of alignment. Meaning the straighter the cv axle the better, and the ability to rotate the axle to align the splines in the axle with the front diff is important. The driver side going into the diff looks much different than passenger. Aside from what looks like an eighth inch portion of shiny metal in your pic that’s showing it looks normal.

 

[Buyer2021]

Attached FYI - looks like a split-ring spring-type circlip on the inboard shaft splines that you've pulled out too far - gonna have to get that split-ring circlip started into the slightly tapered / chamfered end of the 'socket / female splines' once the splines are aligned and started - the dead-blow hammer on the outboard end of the halfshaft may help with that if you can get it aligned right.

Getting that spring-clip started into the socket can be a bear, but once started it should slide-home fairly easy and snap into its intended groove.

Good Luck!

TIP - If you're tired and frustrated, stop for the night and pick it up in the morning; really, it can make a world of difference.

 

[rpold150]

still no joy. I've got the jack under the knuckle, but i can feel resistance trying to lift it up much at all. i don't want to force it and damage the splines. not sure if that's probable or not.

when I try to turn the axle, green arrow turns, but also the part at the red arrow. I'm not sure if that means the splines are lined up and I just need to push, or not.

 

[rpold150]

It’s hard to tell in that pic but it looks seated in the diff to me?


Does anybody know if the inner cv joint is c clip retained?

going back to what you said, I am assuming the axle shaft is pulled out. i didn't notice before i took it apart. the gap in this picture is on the passenger side. the gap on the driver side is maybe a half inch.

maybe this is all correct and i just need to bolt things back together. id feel a lot better if someone could take a picture of their passenger side where the axle shaft goes into the diff.

my assumed gap

passenger side with assumed gap

drivers side with less gap

 

[Natetroknot]

The section of passenger side that you have sectioned in blue (your assumed gap) is normal. The approx 3” long section of inner CV joint that’s approximately half the diameter of the portion your inner cv boot clamps to does not go in the diff, hence the rust present.

There does seem to be some pass side inner cv joint area with shiny metal that I’m thinking came out and should be pushed/tapped in to seat in the diff past the seal. A circlip can be tricky to seat. Things need to be aligned very well and it can sometimes take a decent whack on the end of the whole shaft. Gradually work up your whack intensity while holding the shaft straight. Can spin the nut on the end to protect the threads while whacking.

Sorry about my wording but I think you get the idea and we’re all adults here right?!?!

 

[Natetroknot]

You don’t have near enough shiny metal showing for your shaft splines to be completely out of the diff, so you won’t hurt those. What you’re trying to accomplish is to get that circlip around the inner end of the cv shaft to seat. Your splines won’t get damaged unless you use a sledgehammer or something

 

[rpold150]

The section of passenger side that you have sectioned in blue (your assumed gap) is normal. The approx 3” long section of inner CV joint that’s approximately half the diameter of the portion your inner cv boot clamps to does not go in the diff, hence the rust present.

There does seem to be some pass side inner cv joint area with shiny metal that I’m thinking came out and should be pushed/tapped in to seat in the diff past the seal. A circlip can be tricky to seat. Things need to be aligned very well and it can sometimes take a decent whack on the end of the whole shaft. Gradually work up your whack intensity while holding the shaft straight. Can spin the nut on the end to protect the threads while whacking.

Sorry about my wording but I think you get the idea and we’re all adults here right?!?!

Ok, feeling a little better, and a little stupid for thinking that was pulled out 3 inches from the diff.

I'll try aligning things up and give it a wack. I didn't loosen the axel nut. It sounds like I should to protect the threads on the axle bolt. Do you think I should try to bolt up the end link, ball joint, and tie rod, and then try to align things, or leave everything lose and try to align.

I owe you all a beer or two!!

 

[Natetroknot]

Here’s that pic:

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