Factory B&O Bass Roll-Off Solution

[jperry5835]

We are building the harnesses daily and tuning the KeyLOCs every Friday for shipment. Your harness will be one of them this Friday when we load the unleashed amplifier into our truck. Appreciate your patience and any questions, please reach out

Trying to finish up the wiring before the KeyLOC comes in this week. I have a question on the remote turn on signal for the amplifier. Do I need to tap the wire at the BCM for amplifier turn on or is that supplied through the KeyLOC? I am running a JL Audio JD500/1 amp and a TW3-D4 sub if that matters.

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[SoundsGoodStereo]

Trying to finish up the wiring before the KeyLOC comes in this week. I have a question on the remote turn on signal for the amplifier. Do I need to tap the wire at the BCM for amplifier turn on or is that supplied through the KeyLOC? I am running a JL Audio JD500/1 amp and a TW3-D4 sub if that matters.

The KeyLOC will provide you a remote turn on

 

[JTaylor]

So we never want to use the factory power or ground. You will connect the power/ground of the KeyLOC to the power/ground you ran from the battery to your HS10. That's how the KeyLOC receives its power. Also, since the KeyLOC is converting the signal to "Low-Level", you will need to use the remote turn-on from the KeyLOC to turn on/off the HS10 since DC Offset only works on "High-Level".

Hey there, jumping in from this older thread to try and make sure I understand. In order to use the KeyLOC I will need to run a remote turn on to the head unit? Based on the reply above, it doesn't seem like that needs to be the case unless I misunderstand. I have a HS8 and want to figure out how to configure the amplifier correctly. Thank you so much.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Hey there, jumping in from this older thread to try and make sure I understand. In order to use the KeyLOC I will need to run a remote turn on to the head unit? Based on the reply above, it doesn't seem like that needs to be the case unless I misunderstand. I have a HS8 and want to figure out how to configure the amplifier correctly. Thank you so much.

The Kicker KeyLOC will generate a remote turn on, so no need to run that. On the KeyLOC, you will find three wires.

Yellow = Power
Black = Ground
Blue = Remote for your HS8

 

[Abraham5G]

So we never want to use the factory power or ground. You will connect the power/ground of the KeyLOC to the power/ground you ran from the battery to your HS10. That's how the KeyLOC receives its power. Also, since the KeyLOC is converting the signal to "Low-Level", you will need to use the remote turn-on from the KeyLOC to turn on/off the HS10 since DC Offset only works on "High-Level".

Do we need to use distribution blocks to power and ground the KeyLoc and Amp to power and ground?

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Do we need to use distribution blocks to power and ground the KeyLoc and Amp to power and ground?

It's always best to add a fuse for the power line to the KeyLOC. A simple 5-10a fuse is sufficient.

 

[HabSM]

Can I use this device with the factory amp and sub ?

 

[FORDTEXAS]

Can I use this device with the factory amp and sub ?

yes but it wouldn’t do much since it’s factory everything.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Can I use this device with the factory amp and sub ?

Not really, you would need this device, a new amplifier and then you could run to any subwoofer. But the roll-off is there so you do not damage the factory subwoofer, so as you could imagine, more power and removing the roll-off, you will have a blown factory subwoofer

 

[SnareDrum]

I think something is off with my install. I bought this solution from you guys and just got around to my install. It definitely seems like after 14 volume the roll off happens and I have to turn the sub up. Was my unit supposed to come with instructions because if it was I either lost them or didn’t get them. Any forscan changes needed with this?

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

I think something is off with my install. I bought this solution from you guys and just got around to my install. It definitely seems like after 14 volume the roll off happens and I have to turn the sub up. Was my unit supposed to come with instructions because if it was I either lost them or didn’t get them. Any forscan changes needed with this?

Send me a DM with your name so I can look up the order and see what you purchased. No ForScan changes needed for the fix factory roll off.

 

[CoolCoyote]

Just wanted to stop in and confirm that the ground wire does indeed need to be ran back to Negative terminal on battery, as SGS states. Mainly to deter anyone considering using the cab or frame for a ground.

I foolishly tried grounding it on the back cab wall. It seemed to work...but sound quality was terrible and the subs would distort relatively easily. Just this morning I took the time to run a ground to battery negative terminal and the difference is amazing. Much higher quality, much more consistent sound.

Thank you for all you do, SGS!

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Just wanted to stop in and confirm that the ground wire does indeed need to be ran back to Negative terminal on battery, as SGS states. Mainly to deter anyone considering using the cab or frame for a ground.

I foolishly tried grounding it on the back cab wall. It seemed to work...but sound quality was terrible and the subs would distort relatively easily. Just this morning I took the time to run a ground to battery negative terminal and the difference is amazing. Much higher quality, much more consistent sound.

Thank you for all you do, SGS!

Awesome! Thanks for using our advice on the ground, we are pushing every day to make it mandatory on these trucks. We still get some pushback

 

[EcoBeastCA]

FWIW, I had originally run a 6 AWG ground directly to the battery for my setup (KEY200.4 and Whelen Core). Just had everything sitting haphazardly behind/under the seats until a couple days ago I finally got it all put on a board behind the seat. I also added an HS10 and a Core external amp, so I decided to run more power.

I ran a new 4 AWG ground out the driver's side firewall plug because all of the other wiring is going through the passenger side, and I converted the original 6 AWG ground to a second power wire. I didn't want to have to run the new ground across the engine bay to the battery if it wasn't necessary, so I took a chance and connected it to the factory ground point on the frame just behind the driver's side headlight. So far everything works and sounds identically to when I had it run directly to the battery.

Obviously direct to battery is ideal, and that's what you should do. Just wanted to add my experience. If I run into any issues, I can always splice in another piece of 4 AWG and run it back to the batt.

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