F150 Tail Lights: Easy to Steal, Expensive to Replace!

[Xman]

For anyone getting the LatchLid kit, can you tell me whether they use #14 screws (0.25" to .27" diameter with the treads) or the smaller #12? Thanks in advance.

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[Kodiak]

I didn't measure them but they were extremely tight and took a lot of effort to screw them in. They were much tighter than the OEM screws/bolts that were in there to start.

My guess (only a guess) is that they were #14 based on the tightness factor.

 

[Xman]

... they were extremely tight and took a lot of effort to screw them in. They were much tighter than the OEM screws/bolts that were in there to start.

My guess (only a guess) is that they were #14 based on the tightness factor.

Thanks for the feedback, Kodiak. That is my concern after I measured the hole left in the tail light from the stock screw which only have one primary thread compared to a standard sheet metal screw where both threads are full size. More plastic has to be displaced if the stock screws are replaced with standard #14 screws. The #12 would be an easier fit but may have a different thread pitch depending on which reference material I look at.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

Has anyone come up with a relatively easy way to secure the cable latch on Bakflip and Bak Revolver covers against a bent wire? In truth, it only takes a Wonder Bar to open one but circumventing an initial attempt may deter a thief if they're not seriously determined to get your stuff.

 

[Eskram]

I didn't measure them but they were extremely tight and took a lot of effort to screw them in. They were much tighter than the OEM screws/bolts that were in there to start.

My guess (only a guess) is that they were #14 based on the tightness factor.

I got mine today and had the same experience. They are pretty damn snug. I know it's a no-no, but I generally use my impact driver on the lowest setting for most things to start, then hand-tighten to finish.

With these, after 2-3 threads, it hit the torque limit. I screwed them in afterwards by hand.. It's a good thing I work out because they took some effort to get fully tight.

No issues with the power tailgate closing and they do cover the latch pretty well. Did I actually need it, probably not. Best case, it eventually pisses off someone trying to steal shit. But hey, I did support a small business and all.

Edit: Now that I think about it, I'm an idiot. A 1/4" socket + security bit and wrench would have been way smarter then throwing the bit in a 1/4 " bit screwdriver. Leverage. Yay.

 

[Xman]

another trick might be to but soap or silicon grease on the threads.

 

[lars]

I am confused, doesn't the truck know when the tailgate is opened? and trigger the alarm if it is opened with the doors locked?

 

[HammaMan]

I am confused, doesn't the truck know when the tailgate is opened? and trigger the alarm if it is opened with the doors locked?

I can't test it, my gate is electronic and I'd have to take off the work surface to manually open it after the alarm sets.

 

[JustSayin]

For anyone getting the LatchLid kit, can you tell me whether they use #14 screws (0.25" to .27" diameter with the treads) or the smaller #12? Thanks in advance.

Mine came with M6 security screws, which would be equivalent to a #13.

My concern, however, is galvanic corrosion, particularly with the lower screw which sits flush against the body. The OEM screws appear to be steel, but treated. The Latchlid screws and washers are ordinary stainless steel, which will corrode aluminum. Maybe the body paint limits the area of metal-on-metal contact, and I am overthinking this. But I did pause to wonder why Ford used treated screws in that location.

 

[Xman]

... and once more it is proven the devil's in the details.

Good question, lars. Maybe someone can test the alarm when they have the tailgate access panel off. It may vary by year model. Does the truck alarm activate the phone app?

JustSayin, thanks for the screw measurement. The thread diameter is much less than the stock screws. However, the shaft on the screw in the picture looks larger than the stock screw (0.185") Can you check the inner shaft diameter on the LatchLid screws?

Corrosion, I will have to investigate further. I've had several rowing shells with painted aluminum held down with stainless nuts and bolts that did not have corrosion issues.

 

[JustSayin]

JustSayin, thanks for the screw measurement. The thread diameter is much less than the stock screws. However, the shaft on the screw in the picture looks larger than the stock screw (0.185") Can you check the inner shaft diameter on the LatchLid screws?

Shaft diameter is approximately 0.194"

 

[JustSayin]

I should add: there is some variability.

The Latchlid kit comes with two different length screws for the lights, which the instructions lable as 1-inch and 3/4-inch. But, since #13 screws are uncommon, I believe these are M6x25 and M6x20.

The long screw measured 5.9 mm to the threads, the short screw measured 6.1 mm.

The inner diameter of the shaft measured 0.194" on the long screw, 0.189" on the short screw. (I know, we are switching between imperial and metric. What can I say, I am a rebel like that. I trust you all with the math, should you prefer one system over the other.)

A max 1/100 inch difference in shaft diameters seems tolerable.

It is a bit strange that the top screw adds only 5 mm in length, but actually has to travel through about 9 mm of bracket, washer and spacer before it gets to the body. I wonder if it would be better to use M6x30 at the top. If M6x30 screws are a hair too long, it would not be hard to file 1 mm off the point to make it fit.

 

[Xman]

The stock F150 tail light screws measure only 0.70" from underneath the washer to the tip of the screw which is flat. There was a hard stop inside the tail light screw hole at 0.75" with no screw in the hole so that 0.70" length seems to be the MAX.

JustSaying, odd that the thread and shaft diameters vary between the LatchLid screws. However, the shaft diameters of both are larger than the stock screws, a potential factor in more force required to insert the LatchLid screws.

Thread pitch may be another factor in the increased force to insert the LatchLid screws. I count 14 threads per inch on the stock screws. I counted 13 per inch on the screw in your picture. JustSaying, can you verify the thread pitch?

I'm going to go to HomeDepot and get some standard #12 and #14 screws and check them further for compatibility with the tail lights. When I removed and replaced the stock screw to measure hole depth, there were well defined threads already present in the plastic created by the stock screws. You could tell because the screw dropped into the threads as you rotated it counter-clockwise.

 

[JustSayin]

JustSaying, can you verify the thread pitch?

I'm measuring about a 1.75 mm pitch.

 

[JJSnell]

I could not find the parts cost for the new 2024 LED tail lights. I do not know if any calibration of sensors were required. Owners beware.

@crazywayne311 just swapped in '24 tail lights. He can chime in on cost and from what I remember him saying, no Forscan needed...

I'm with others.
I would go after market and put them in yourself (your friend).
$950 for 10 mins of work?

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