Fitzter
Active member
- Thread starter
- #1
Like the title says, none of the aftermarket solutions seemed to do what I wanted for a number of reasons. First, I love the amount of storage the under seat gives me. Second, I'm not too comfortable cutting, drilling and hacking on a new 80k truck, but after trying to fix the factory sub by adding a 175-watt amp to it that helped a little I had to do something.
After removing the B&O sub and taking some initial measurement I understand why no one does it. It's a tight space that's hard to measure with a number of obstacles.
1: 3 Protruding floor bolts and metal bracket holding wire clip.
2: Metal seat spring.
3: Rear sliding window motor.
I never built a sub box so I just went by what the internet said made a good sub box.... 3/4 plywood or mdf. 21w x 13h x 6d1 x 4d2 = .45 cubic ft - .045 for sub and - .05 for the window motor cutout = .355 it was just under the bare minimum of what a shallow sub needs and no better than aftermarket premade. I built it anyway and it did fit and sounded pretty good, night and day over the factory but still not worth the time and effort it took.
I decided to give it one more try, this time using every fraction of space I could find. After looking closer at some of the premade space saving boxes, they use 3/8 - 5/8 with only the front baffle at 3/4. If I used 1/2" plywood and braced the outside of the baffle it might work and I already had plenty of scrap wood so this is what I ended up with.
1: Slightly enlarge the amp rack holes and trim the metal on the sub side = 3/4".
2: Added 1 " to height.
3: Notched out the motor cutout instead of cutting it off.
4: Mounted the sub inside of the front baffle.
5: Used 3/4 on top and bottom making glue and screwing easier and, 1/2 " on back and sides with extra layer on front and brace on inside as close to middle as possible.
Final dimensions = 21.75w x 14h x 6d1 x 4.5d2, Back motor cutout, 4 x 3 x 9, the face plate brace 21.75 x 10.5 with cutout for spring clearance. The faceplate was the last piece of plywood I had that would fit and was damaged so I routed the edges to make it look like I did it on purpose... it didn't work to good. Lol. From the bottom of the baffle to 10.5 inches it’s 1 inch thick, at just left of the woofer it’s 1 ½ from top to bottom.
Sounds amazing now and really the only thing holding it back is the factory radio and an extra 100 watts.
Internal space = .65 - .03 for motor cutout - .045 for sub -.01 for internal brace =.565
Subwoofer Audio Control SPC-10S2
Amp Audio Control ACM-1.300 @2 ohm
Kicker Keyloc for factory bass roll off.
Recommended enclosure
SEALED ENCLOSURE
Hope this helps anyone that's thinking about upgrading, at 14 inches it just barely touches, at 10.5 you get 5.5, If I did it again, I'd buy that last piece of plywood ha-ha.
After removing the B&O sub and taking some initial measurement I understand why no one does it. It's a tight space that's hard to measure with a number of obstacles.
1: 3 Protruding floor bolts and metal bracket holding wire clip.
2: Metal seat spring.
3: Rear sliding window motor.
I never built a sub box so I just went by what the internet said made a good sub box.... 3/4 plywood or mdf. 21w x 13h x 6d1 x 4d2 = .45 cubic ft - .045 for sub and - .05 for the window motor cutout = .355 it was just under the bare minimum of what a shallow sub needs and no better than aftermarket premade. I built it anyway and it did fit and sounded pretty good, night and day over the factory but still not worth the time and effort it took.
I decided to give it one more try, this time using every fraction of space I could find. After looking closer at some of the premade space saving boxes, they use 3/8 - 5/8 with only the front baffle at 3/4. If I used 1/2" plywood and braced the outside of the baffle it might work and I already had plenty of scrap wood so this is what I ended up with.
1: Slightly enlarge the amp rack holes and trim the metal on the sub side = 3/4".
2: Added 1 " to height.
3: Notched out the motor cutout instead of cutting it off.
4: Mounted the sub inside of the front baffle.
5: Used 3/4 on top and bottom making glue and screwing easier and, 1/2 " on back and sides with extra layer on front and brace on inside as close to middle as possible.
Final dimensions = 21.75w x 14h x 6d1 x 4.5d2, Back motor cutout, 4 x 3 x 9, the face plate brace 21.75 x 10.5 with cutout for spring clearance. The faceplate was the last piece of plywood I had that would fit and was damaged so I routed the edges to make it look like I did it on purpose... it didn't work to good. Lol. From the bottom of the baffle to 10.5 inches it’s 1 inch thick, at just left of the woofer it’s 1 ½ from top to bottom.
Sounds amazing now and really the only thing holding it back is the factory radio and an extra 100 watts.
Internal space = .65 - .03 for motor cutout - .045 for sub -.01 for internal brace =.565
Subwoofer Audio Control SPC-10S2
Amp Audio Control ACM-1.300 @2 ohm
Kicker Keyloc for factory bass roll off.
Recommended enclosure
SEALED ENCLOSURE
- External Dimensions: 26″ W × 14.50″H × 5.00″D
- Net Internal Volume: 0.60 ft3
- Total Internal Volume: 0.65 ft3
- Gross External Volume: 1.09 ft3
- Material Thickness: 0.75″
- F3 (Hz): 60
- Qtc: 0.70
Hope this helps anyone that's thinking about upgrading, at 14 inches it just barely touches, at 10.5 you get 5.5, If I did it again, I'd buy that last piece of plywood ha-ha.
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