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LariatOfFire

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Is pulling the console back the easier method if you’re just doing the cup holder lights?
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Is pulling the console back the easier method if you’re just doing the cup holder lights?
It really depends on if you would rather pull a bunch of trim pieces or unbolt the center console. Neither are necessary though… the cupholders are pretty flexible, just don’t be a hamfisted maniac with them. HOWEVER, I highly suggest you use whichever method you’re most comfortable. I truly don’t think you’ll break them if you’re careful, but I also don’t wanna be blamed for anyone breaking theirs
 
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JHForman812

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Is pulling the console back the easier method if you’re just doing the cup holder lights?

Me personally, I just lift the center trim up and change the cup holder from the bottom. this probably isnt for everyone. so pulling the console back would be my go to method if I didnt use the other way.
 

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Me personally, I just lift the center trim up and change the cup holder from the bottom. this probably isnt for everyone. so pulling the console back would be my go to method if I didnt use the other way.
Pulling the console back is just undoing the X4 screws right? There isn't anything that you could catch down there? How far does it slide back?

I'm finally doing everything this weekend.
Cupholders
Media light
Glove box light
HVAC with display.
 

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Pulling the console back is just undoing the X4 screws right? There isn't anything that you could catch down there? How far does it slide back?

I'm finally doing everything this weekend.
Cupholders
Media light
Glove box light
HVAC with display.
7 screws/bolts, 1 screw holds on a piece of trim on the passenger side that covers one of the bolts, and then 3 bolts per side. There’s a bit of moving both front seats back and forth too to get to the rear bolts
 

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general

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It’s not that hard at all to reconnect all of the harnesses. I’ve taken it apart a couple times now
Honestly the only one I disconnected was a mini USB cable that either went to the wireless charging or the USB ports. I honestly was surprised that was there because I don't believe that mini usb is capable of supporting faster charger speeds. Which would explain why the factory wireless charger is never charging my phone. Part of me wants to remove it and install a custom solution.

Anyways I didn't need to disconnect the harness on the passenger side, as I said you really only need to push it back like a inch or two basically to get clearance for the top console trim piece that holds the cupholders. One in theory could remove it without doing it, but I didn't want to take any chance at breaking things.

Once I started popping trim off, my confidence grew. In the past when I have removed trim I always ended up breaking a clip or something lol. These clips aren't that bad, honestly the christmas tree plugs gave me more of a hassle as they aren't really supported by much to pry on.

Also @JHForman812 I went back out to the garage and popped the hockey sticks back out, the top clip was slightly bent on the passenger side, I was able to nudge it back into place, the drivers side went on great once I lined it up, I think one or two clips in the middle might be loose still as there is a hairline gap now, you can't really even see it, but if you run your finger over its noticeable. I am not too worried about it, every vehicle I have ever owned had some panel that didn't line up perfectly lol.
 

dolsen

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Honestly the only one I disconnected was a mini USB cable that either went to the wireless charging or the USB ports. I honestly was surprised that was there because I don't believe that mini usb is capable of supporting faster charger speeds. Which would explain why the factory wireless charger is never charging my phone. Part of me wants to remove it and install a custom solution.

Anyways I didn't need to disconnect the harness on the passenger side, as I said you really only need to push it back like a inch or two basically to get clearance for the top console trim piece that holds the cupholders. One in theory could remove it without doing it, but I didn't want to take any chance at breaking things.
I must have either a good phone case or a good wireless charger, the one I put in my F-150 actually works as well as any wireless charger I’ve used in or out of a car. The one in my wife’s 2020 explorer sucks though.

As far as the center console, I’ve removed it a couple times now but only because I installed the WACM and a new wiring harness for rear heated seats. I didn’t do it for the ambient lighting install. But I think there is a little bit of play in them with them still connected
 

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Pulling the console back is just undoing the X4 screws right? There isn't anything that you could catch down there? How far does it slide back?

I'm finally doing everything this weekend.
Cupholders
Media light
Glove box light
HVAC with display.

Its 6 10mm bolts. The driver side has one 7mm (I am 90% sure, if not its a 6mm) on the lower trim. Two are on the dash under the hvac controls. on driver and passenger side, the other 4 are near the floor in between the wall and the seat. Moving the seats forward and backward you can easily get access to them.

I was debating going the center console vs the dash method. The center console has pretty much the same amount of trim, but if you scratch something its less noticeable imo... The trim on the dash is slightly harder to remove from what I read, and there are more screws as you have to undo the hvac control unit.


Also make sure you have a T20 bit, as you will need it for removing/adding the new cup holder to the top trim piece.


oh btw I also took my weather tech back seat mat out as the center console will catch on that when you pull it back. If you have any large mat back there I would either remove it or move it out of the way.
 
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I must have either a good phone case or a good wireless charger, the one I put in my F-150 actually works as well as any wireless charger I’ve used in or out of a car. The one in my wife’s 2020 explorer sucks though.

As far as the center console, I’ve removed it a couple times now but only because I installed the WACM and a new wiring harness for rear heated seats. I didn’t do it for the ambient lighting install. But I think there is a little bit of play in them with them still connected

I have only had the truck for like a month, and haven't used the wireless charger a lot. But when I put my phone on it and drive home from work for example it only provides it enough power to maintain its current level (wireless carplay does use a fair amount of power). It honestly might be the optimize battery charging on my phone, I haven't tested it enough really, but initial impressions are lacking. I have a Belkin wireless mount that I threw in the back seat (from my old car), worse case I can just put that up near the dash. It seemed to always work pretty good.
 
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JHForman812

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I have only had the truck for like a month, and haven't used the wireless charger a lot. But when I put my phone on it and drive home from work for example it only provides it enough power to maintain its current level (wireless carplay does use a fair amount of power). It honestly might be the optimize battery charging on my phone, I haven't tested it enough really, but initial impressions are lacking. I have a Belkin wireless mount that I threw in the back seat (from my old car), worse case I can just put that up near the dash. It seemed to always work pretty good.

If i run carplay, and have my phone on the charger it will overheat my phone, the map will start dragging and it will stop charging.
 

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Big Cam

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Its 6 10mm bolts. The driver side has one 7mm (I am 90% sure, if not its a 6mm) on the lower trim. Two are on the dash under the hvac controls. on driver and passenger side, the other 4 are near the floor in between the wall and the seat. Moving the seats forward and backward you can easily get access to them.

I was debating going the center console vs the dash method. The center console has pretty much the same amount of trim, but if you scratch something its less noticeable imo... The trim on the dash is slightly harder to remove from what I read, and there are more screws as you have to undo the hvac control unit.


Also make sure you have a T20 bit, as you will need it for removing/adding the new cup holder to the top trim piece.


oh btw I also took my weather tech back seat mat out as the center console will catch on that when you pull it back. If you have any large mat back there I would either remove it or move it out of the way.
Thanks for all the tips, I do have the factory Ford weather tech style mats so a great tip.

Since I am also replacing the HVAC control, should I skip sliding the center console back? Or does it just make everything easier?
 

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If i run carplay, and have my phone on the charger it will overheat my phone, the map will start dragging and it will stop charging.
Yeah I have noticed that, which is why I wish ford would of included some cooling via a fan or other solution behind the wireless charger (which is why I am thinking about a custom solution). But alas that is another part in the supply chain lol. Also was thinking about adding magnets for the magsafe connection so it aligns better. They make these cheap stickers on amazon that might work, or I might design something and 3d print it.
 

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Thanks for all the tips, I do have the factory Ford weather tech style mats so a great tip.

Since I am also replacing the HVAC control, should I skip sliding the center console back? Or does it just make everything easier?

You might as well do the dash removal as your going to have to it for the HVAC controls.

The HVAC thing doesn't really bother me that much, I personal didn't like how it looked. Plus with the next gen Carplay update that will be coming , I am hoping that ford will make it available through a software update. Apple is updating Carplay to take advantage of all the digital displays. Ford has committed to it, but there might be a hardware component so who knows.
Ford F-150 Cup holder light installation / media bin light / glove box light / ambient lighting change 1675216014947
 
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JHForman812

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Thanks for all the tips, I do have the factory Ford weather tech style mats so a great tip.

Since I am also replacing the HVAC control, should I skip sliding the center console back? Or does it just make everything easier?
If youre doing the HVAC I wouldnt mess sliding the console. when you have the HVAC out to replace do your lights then.
 

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If was finally warm enough for me to add the cup holder lights today. Thanks to John for the update on not having to pull the whole console out. I was nervous pulling the center trim piece up enough to get the cup holder torxs out, but there is room. I was surprised how much flex the trim piece has. At least mine does. I won’t guarantee it will work for you, but if you’re reasonably careful there is plenty of room. Probably took me 45 minutes total. 10 minutes of that was figuring out the mounting screws for the cup holder are # 10 torxs. With John’s cable it’s very easy to add this.
What center trim piece are you pulling up to get access to remove the cup holders?
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