Connector Repin

[amschind]

I am working on following HammaMan's guide on redoing the connectors to get vented/heated seats in an XLT. I'm replacing the wheel with a heated one and climate control module at the same time, so I may need to mess with the climate control module in Forscan as well. Bottom line, I haven't repinned connectors before, and I assume that this comes up for folks. I was curious if the more talented among us might point us in the right direction on how to learn/what tools/pitfalls et c.

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[ReverendQ]

I am working on following HammaMan's guide on redoing the connectors to get vented/heated seats in an XLT. I'm replacing the wheel with a heated one and climate control module at the same time, so I may need to mess with the climate control module in Forscan as well. Bottom line, I haven't repinned connectors before, and I assume that this comes up for folks. I was curious if the more talented among us might point us in the right direction on how to learn/what tools/pitfalls et c.

@amschind , The hardest part for me was de-pinning C212. I even screwed it up as you can see in the attached where I installed pin 24 incorrectly into the pin catch area and not the pin hole. With @HammaMan 's encouragement, I recovered which included doing micro-surgery on the pin 24.
To prevent you from damaging your C212 (mine was close to inoperable) I offer the following advice:

1) When inserting pins, check that you are putting it in the correct connector hole, not just location (pin number) but also in the correct pin place in the connector. That is, don't make the mistake I made inserting Pin 24 into the catch slot not the pin slot as shown circled in blue. Consider partially pushing it through into the connector and then checking both sides to be sure its going into the correct place in the connector.

2) To de-pin find a tool, I used a de-pinning tool with a sharp point, a decent size needle may work but @HammaMan swears by a modified paper clip. What you are using the tool for is to poke the plastic tab that is shown circled in red and move it away from the pin itself, toward the outside of the connector, to release the pin catch and therefore the pin, in this example the tab circled in blue would be moved to de-pin C212-23. The tab holds the pin's catch so that it doesn't back out of the connector. Circled in red is a better picture of a tab that holds a pin's catch.

It really is one of those things that you develop a feel for but very difficult to explain. You won't be able to actually see the tool hitting the tab so take a good long look at the connector tabs. You want to be able to visualize hitting it with the tool and then moving it away from the catch to release the pin.

I hope this helps.

 

[HammaMan]

@amschind , The hardest part for me was de-pinning C212. I even screwed it up as you can see in the attached where I installed pin 24 incorrectly into the pin catch area and not the pin hole. With @HammaMan 's encouragement, I recovered which included doing micro-surgery on the pin 24.
To prevent you from damaging your C212 (mine was close to inoperable) I offer the following advice:

1) When inserting pins, check that you are putting it in the correct connector hole, not just location (pin number) but also in the correct pin place in the connector. That is, don't make the mistake I made inserting Pin 24 into the catch slot not the pin slot as shown. Consider partially pushing it through into the connector and then checking both sides to be sure its going into the correct place in the connector.

2) To de-pin find a tool, I used a de-pinning tool with a sharp point, a decent size needle may work but @HammaMan swears by a modified paper clip. What you are using the tool for is to poke the plastic tab that is shown circled in blue and move it away from the pin itself, toward the outside of the connector, to release the pin catch and therefore the pin, in this example the tab circled in blue would be moved to de-pin C212-23. The tab holds the pin's catch so that it doesn't back out of the connector. Circled in red is a better picture of a tab that holds a pin's catch.

It really is one of those things that you develop a feel for but very difficult to explain.

Yeah, my paper clip tools made by smashing the ends slightly with a hydraulic cable crimp and the sharpened with sandpaper have made quick work of everything I've encountered. I'm sure there's 3 or 4 other tools that could do this one tool's tasks, but the angled head one is the only one I use now exclusively. I've de-pinned from both sides using the tool including riding up the wire side which by default displaces the locking tab but can make pulling out the wire require more force on the pull due to the wedged pre-load so more care is needed in making sure the wire is unlocked. The paper clip is bent into a bow shape like a D w/out the straight side. This makes inserting it and rotating it to lift a pin catch much easier if required and is basically my default removal means.

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