Brand new battery drained overnight

[PaulGrun]

About two weeks ago I replaced my battery with a new Optima H7 yellow top. Old one was throwing low voltage errors.

Yesterday morning I went out to start my truck and it was 100% dead. Black screens, nothing working.

I was able to jump start the truck and pulled low voltage DTC on just about every module, which makes sense. I decided to drive to the parts store to have the battery tested.
The battery tested fine, but they said my alternator was dead/not charging the battery.
I know the Powerboost trucks don't actually have a traditional alternator, so not sure how to read that.

After having jump started it that one time and driven it around a bit, the truck seems to be acting normal. Haven't needed to jump start it ever since. No more low voltage DTC.

This morning, I changed the battery SOC to 95% and drove about 10-12 miles. No issues at all.


One thing I do recall is the night the battery died, I forgot to remove my Bluetooth ODB reader from the port.
Could that thing really drain a battery that low overnight?

My usual rant - there isn't any compelling evidence that changing the SOC parameter using Forscan does what most people think it does, other than scattered anecdotal stories. No one here, to my knowledge, has actual insights into the engineers' thinking or the pros and cons of changing that value, much less the actual impacts of doing so.
I suggest restoring it to factory defaults.

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[HammaMan]

My usual rant - there isn't any compelling evidence that changing the SOC parameter using Forscan does what most people think it does, other than scattered anecdotal stories. No one here, to my knowledge, has actual insights into the engineers' thinking or the pros and cons of changing that value, much less the actual impacts of doing so.
I suggest restoring it to factory defaults.

There is a post about playing with police mode and its results on ICE engines. Not sure if anyone has played with it on the PB.

Per my battery monitor, the dealer left my truck on for a couple hours to 'program' recalls that aren't showing as completed in ford's system. They drained my LFP and ate my AGM down to the point of it using the flywheel starter for the 3rd time ever. The drive home was about 12 minutes. During that time it was enough for the LFP to gobble up sufficient energy to keep the 12v bus resting at 13.2v for 2 hours until I took a 25 minute trip. At the end of that 25m trip my 12v system was back to 100% and resting at 13.3v -- where it normally sits for days.

 

[Gros Ventre]

My usual rant - there isn't any compelling evidence that changing the SOC parameter using Forscan does what most people think it does, other than scattered anecdotal stories. No one here, to my knowledge, has actual insights into the engineers' thinking or the pros and cons of changing that value, much less the actual impacts of doing so.
I suggest restoring it to factory defaults.

Based on battery electro-chemistry, setting the system hot voltage at 12.8-12.9VDC does supply an 80% of full charge to the battery. I believe Ford set that in order to lengthen the AGM battery life. Reason: AGM batteries are more susceptible to over charging damage than a flooded cell type battery (which usually floats at about 13.2VDC). Since installing a system voltmeter I have observed that the system voltage floats at about 12.9VDC when outside temps are above about 75ºF. When temps are below that system voltage is higher, up to about 14VDC. This is consistent with a desired increase in float voltage relative to ambient temperature. So... Does setting the system float voltage above 12.9 VDC (an 80% full charge setting)? I suppose it will yield a battery closer to full charge voltage. The downside to setting your system float voltage higher is the AGM battery life may be shortened. In my case replacing the OEM battery (shortly after delivery) with a stock, off the shelf battery of the same rating showed immediate relief from the "wierdo system alerts." This battery is doing just fine after three Wyoming winters.

 

[Calson]

Ford's BMS is worthless considering my 2022 truck. I replace the failed OEM battery under warranty and when the second one was failing I replaced it with a larger H7 Optima battery.

My final solution though was to buy a quality trickle charger and keep my truck plugged in and maintaining the SOC for the battery.

There are parasitic loads and issues with battery capacity with Ford trucks and SUVs coming from the factory with H6, H7, or H8 size batteries. The ONLY solution that is 100% effective is to use a battery maintainer.

No chance of a fix from Ford which will not even admit that there is a problem.

 

[Calson]

I have the battery problem with my 2022 F-150 and it I never had this problem with any car or truck from Chevy, Toyota, Willys (with its 6 volt battery), Dodge, and Triumph. The only explanation is parasitic draws from the battery by the electronics. I know that there is over the air updating of the software and this requires that the electronics are on all the time.

 

[rjinaz]

Dealer just contacted me... BCM was throwing U0422 codes on startup.

Also told me I had a recall they were taking care of while it was there. PCM programming.

Recall Campaign #: 24E04 - POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE PCM REPROGRAMMING AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER REPLACEMENT IF REQUIRED

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