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Better than factory 2wd 2024 shocks ?

Mikemann0

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Looking for better performing shocks for my 2024 xl 5.0 whipple truck (Next purchase after fuel leak repair) , I don't want to lower it - 2" rear maxtrac shackles already along with traction bars , Stock shocks are horrible (like being in a boat on water) , I don't tow anything just want to stiffen it up some for occasional spirited driving , Any suggestions from some that have done this ?? Thanks.
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Calson

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Better to put your money into a rear sway bar.
 

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Better to put your money into a rear sway bar.
A sway bar addresses body roll when cornering, does nothing to affect straight line ride or handling.

Better shocks address underdamping / poor compliance / poor 'composure' both straight line and cornering.

Two different things for two different issues, one is not a substitute for the other.

More often than not the 'boaty / floaty / Buick' ride is improved significantly with better damped shocks. (on all four corners for maximum benefit).

To cure the too-floaty ride Billstein 5100's at stock ride height on all four corners worked excellent for me but they may not play nice with the rear shackles ride height (not sure). Much improved ride and composure while still comfortable, somewhat improved cornering compliance, too.

I also run a Steeda sway bar to address body roll and provide much improved cornering compliance.
 
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Mikemann0

Mikemann0

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Better to put your money into a rear sway bar.
A sway bar has it's place but in conjunction with better shocks , Sway bars ordered already - Looking for shock recommendations , Thanks
 
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Mikemann0

Mikemann0

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A sway bar addresses body roll when cornering, does nothing to affect straight line ride or handling.

Better shocks address underdamping / poor compliance / poor 'composure' both straight line and cornering.

Two different things for two different issues, one is not a substitute for the other.

More often than not the 'boaty / floaty / Buick' ride is improved significantly with better damped shocks. (on all four corners for maximum benefit).

To cure the too-floaty ride Billstein 5100's at stock ride height on all four corners worked excellent for me but they may not play nice with the rear shackles ride height (not sure). Much improved ride and composure while still comfortable, somewhat improved cornering compliance, too.

I also run a Steeda sway bar to address body roll and provide much improved cornering compliance.
My concern also with the 2" shackles , Seems everyone goes 2/4 - 3/5 , I'm trying to stay away from doing that and was hoping someone has done what I am trying to do , Thanks
 

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Most guys seem to like the Bilstein 4600 for non-lifted trucks. Did you have to notch your bed support for the shackles?
 
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Mikemann0

Mikemann0

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Most guys seem to like the Bilstein 4600 for non-lifted trucks. Did you have to notch your bed support for the shackles?
I'll look into them , Thanks , And yes bed had to be notched - Hated to do it but no way around it.
 

Calson

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A sway bar addresses body roll when cornering, does nothing to affect straight line ride or handling.

Better shocks address underdamping / poor compliance / poor 'composure' both straight line and cornering.

Two different things for two different issues, one is not a substitute for the other.

More often than not the 'boaty / floaty / Buick' ride is improved significantly with better damped shocks. (on all four corners for maximum benefit).

To cure the too-floaty ride Billstein 5100's at stock ride height on all four corners worked excellent for me but they may not play nice with the rear shackles ride height (not sure). Much improved ride and composure while still comfortable, somewhat improved cornering compliance, too.

I also run a Steeda sway bar to address body roll and provide much improved cornering compliance.

Evidently you do not understand how very different a pickup truck is compared to a sedan or SUV. The front wheel support the engine and the rear wheels support the bed which is usually empty.

My previous heavy duty diesel pickup was often used to carry a 2,000 lb load or a 3700 lb slide-in camper. The load on the front wheels was 4440 lb but at the rear drive axle it was 3120 lb with the bed empty or as much as 7,000 lb with the camper in the bed. It should be obvious that the load or dampening required for the front shocks was considerably different from that of the rear shocks.

Changing out 4 shock seems like the easiest approach to fixing a handliing problem without having to actually spend time analyzing the situation. It is also the least like to improve handling. With sway or porpoising there is a need for more load support at the affected wheels. With more load support with greater spring capacity there is a need for more dampening by the shocks.

When cornering the center of gravity shifts toward the outer wheels. With a 3700 lb camper load in my diesel pickup this was quite noticeable. With my F-150 I will never have a similar amount of load shift to the outer wheels in a turn with the stock suspension. If I lifted the truck I could create problems but for offroad use I have never wanted to do that to any of my offroad vehicles. Raising the center of gravity is not a smart move.

With my heavy duty truck I used adjustable shocks and had double the dampening at the rear wheels when the bed was fully loaded. With the bed empty I used the same dampening settings for the front and the rear wheels.

Where the rear sway bar helped was in making turns as when one wheel hit a dip or bump or expansion crack there was a great deal of sudden and severe amount of wheel hop. The sway bar fixed this problem completely.

My F-150 has a ride that is much like that of a sedan or SUV and not at all like that of my heavy duty pickup. With the passenger tires used by Ford the ride is quite soft and handling is not a concern. A sway bar at the rear would help a little but too little to make spending the $600 worthwhile. Spending $500 or more on 4 new shocks would be an even bigger waste of money.

Unless a shock is leaking fluid or not working properly then the only reason to replace them would be at the rear wheels to be able to adjust them for towing a heavy boat or trailer.
 

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