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Weight helps... I regularly carry motorcycles in the bed and a 400lb bike tames the ride. I also added Bilstein shocks on the rear and that helps also since I can't drive around with a bike in the bed all the time.

2WD, so swapped out the stock shocks for Bilstein 4600's. The difference is noticeable but not life changing. Less wallowing and boaty feel. No real difference in ride quality, i.e. not harsher or stiffer. Next step is probably lowering shackles for me.

Swapped out the stock shocks for Bilstein 4600's. Bought them from @Stage3Motorsports during their black Fri sale and they shipped directly from Bilstein. Haven't driven it yet so I can't comment yet on any difference in ride or the bounciness. Update- I did drive it and the difference is...

Are these plug and play or are there Forscan changes needed? I'd be putting it in a 23 STX...

I have a STX with the rubber wheel and I'm definitely going to swap it out. It just feels like junk. But, yeah, I think any of the other wheels are just appearance differences.

Found a decent deal on a Tremor wheel that I'd like to swap into my 23 STX. If I swap the buttons, any reason it won't work? Does not appear to be a heated wheel...

I run in tow/haul all the time and even then I can't measure a difference in mpg. Tow/haul will keep the rpm more in the 2000 range vs normal which will do stupid things like be in 8th gear at 40 mph with the engine at 1200 and struggling. The 2.7 really likes 2000 rpm vs. the normal shift...

I understand but I have no way of measuring the circumference of these wheel/tire combos. But if it is minor, like 2mph, that's not a problem. The 18's have a taller sidewall (65% vs 60 on the 20's) so they may be very close.

I'm looking at a 25 XLT with the BAP but it only has 18 in rims and they look rather small in the wheel wells. I currently have 20 in wheels on my STX and like the way they look and handle. I can buy 20 in new take-offs from several places here in ATL for about 1200/set. Anyone have experience...

I didn't like the seats in my STX so I put a sheep skin seat cover on which has a memory foam bottom. Really comfortable and eliminates the need for a heated seat in the winter. Seat comfort is a really subjective thing based on individual anatomy...

F150's are bouncy trucks. My brother has a RAM and when he rode in my truck he said it is a lot bouncier than his truck. The rear shock are way under-damped. I'd start there with the 4600's or 5100's if it is a 4wd. A lot of guys have said it is a big improvement.

So, at least a temporary fix... I wrapped the latch hooks with a few wraps of elec tape and the door rattles are gone. Don't know how long it will last but at least I know where to point the guys at the shop for a permanent fix.

382 got changed to 328... I think it is just transposed numbers.

Stillen makes a plug and play tuner for the 2.7. You might contact them.

I'm pretty OCD about vibration, wind noise and rattles so stuff that doesn't bother other people is like a pebble in my shoe... What worries me is if it will get worse. Both my 18 and this 23 started the rattling doors at about 15-18k miles and I do wonder if it continues to get worse with age...

I love my Supercab but with only 16k miles, the rear doors rattle going over bad pavement and RR tracks. You can also hear the door gaskets squeaking over rough pavement. I guess there is a lot of flex in the cab without a center pillar. My 2018 had the same problem. Not something I can live...

I got a 2000 cash offer in the mail today. Well, 2000 on a F150 or Super Duty, less on other models. The deals may get better after the first of the year when they really need to clear out old stock.

roll on...

I don't think you would notice any problems unless you are towing something with a heavy tongue weight or have the bed loaded. The problem with the shocks is that they could bottom before you hit the bump stops- especially since you put the shorter stops in. The shocks and stops are designed to...

Good review...