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Battery Testing The H6 in my '23 KR

SilverPigeon

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Preamble:
Previous 3 BMS resets over a period of months, when at home, always on NOCO10 charger, sometimes all week; charger reports Green light (top-off/maintenance mode). Previous issues:
- No crank: 1
- "System off to save battery": 9
- Battery fail / won't hold charge on NOCO10: 3 (latest on 2 May 2024)
Example: Previous Melbourne trip, 342km return, cannot get better than 60's% SOC before truck puts 0A into battery

28/5/24 12:30 After all-night charging in truck, disconnected battery from truck, ran battery test, results (1), (2), (3):
- Volts: 12.50
- CCA measured: 670
- CCA Rating: 760
- Resistance: 4.50 mΩ
- SOH: 89%
- SOC: 88%

28/5/24 12:50 Leaving battery disconnected, charging with NOCO10, started different behaviour; instead of progressing straight through the charge lights, it gets to 3 lights (orange) and goes back to one light (small red). NOCO10 showed Green light after approximately an hour. Left battery disconnected from truck and charging with NOCO10 overnight.

29/5/24 09:30 Re-ran battery test (disconnected from truck), results (4), (5):
- Volts: 12.72
- CCA measured: 675
- CCA Rating: 760
- Resistance: 4.47 mΩ
- SOH: 90%
- SOC: 100%

29/5/24 10:00 Re-connected battery to truck, verified all truck settings and FORScan mods, changed Target SOC from 103% back to 90%, performed BMS reset. This was all done engine-off but connected to charger and left on charger until:

29/5/24 13:00 Test drive results:
- Start of ½ hour drive away (6)
- ½ hour in the gun shop ?
- End of ½ hour drive back (7)

Lessons learned:
1. The NOCO10 charger works perfectly
2. The Ancel battery tester works as advertised
3. Even though my truck sat turned off from Feb '23 to Nov '23 (with a handful of starts for shipping, conversion etc.) the battery was actually good (but low SOC) through all that time
4. Even when truck is asleep, the BMS strategy still prevents a full external charge
5. For a full charge and reliable battery test, the battery must be disconnected from the truck
6. The Ford PID for battery SOC% and current are only reporting what the BCM (via the BMS) is telling it, which is not necessarily the disconnected SOC% of the battery
7. A longer driving day will confirm or deny maintenance of SOC, but I'd feel better once I've got the BMS strategy updated. The original SOC level is the cause of the issues I noted at the top of the post, and likely either came from the battery manufacturer that way, or SOC sank during many months of engine-off. It never got better, likely because the battery never got an "out of truck" charge and BMS reset combination.

Conclusion: before going through the hassle of dealer testing and replacement, charge your H6 "out of truck" for 24 hours and BMS reset; get a cheap battery tester like the Ancel and charger like the NOCO10.
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Kodiak

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What screen is that that gave you the PID's on the main screen? Is it something with Android Auto?
 
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SilverPigeon

SilverPigeon

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What screen is that that gave you the PID's on the main screen? Is it something with Android Auto?
I'm using a Veepeak BT+ (BTLE) OBD2 dongle and OBD Fusion. Achieves the same thing for monitoring as an OBDLink MX+ and the OBDLink software is OBD Fusion under the OBDLink name. I use the FORD add-on PIDs which I had to pay for but I believe with OBDLink MX+ you get one set of manufacturer-specific PIDs; I'm doing it using CarPlay and @Snakebitten Bruce is the wiz on that stuff ?
 

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That's cool that you can get it on the screen with Car Play. I wonder if there is a way to get a similar display through Android Auto, such as the ODBLink app.
 

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Asking a quick question from your Lessons Learned section.

#4: The BMS prevents a full charge even when off. Is your NOCO hooked up "correctly" with the negative lead of the NOCO going to a frame-mounted ground point and the BMS chip/clamp between the NOCO and the negative battery terminal?

Do you think you would get the same "out of truck" charge results if you moved the NOCO from a frame mount to directly attached to the battery's negative terminal (bypassing the BMS chip/clamp)? Are you willing to test this if you have the time?
 

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SilverPigeon

SilverPigeon

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Asking a quick question from your Lessons Learned section.

#4: The BMS prevents a full charge even when off. Is your NOCO hooked up "correctly" with the negative lead of the NOCO going to a frame-mounted ground point and the BMS chip/clamp between the NOCO and the negative battery terminal?

Do you think you would get the same "out of truck" charge results if you moved the NOCO from a frame mount to directly attached to the battery's negative terminal (bypassing the BMS chip/clamp)? Are you willing to test this if you have the time?
Yes Mark, in-place charging with the NOCO on battery + and frame ground is my permanent setup. It would certainly charge fully if it was connected to battery + and - directly, being a bypass of the BMS. The other thread with the YouTube video from Ford Tech Makuloco actually demonstrates this as the "not correct" way of charging for the truck to know what's going on; that's normally true. But in the case of wanting a full charge, not what the truck "thinks" is good or full, it's the way to go.

Two reasons I disconnected both battery cables:

1. For a proper connection to both of the posts, whereas using the alligator clips on the truck's cable clamps while connected to the battery is a less reliable mechanical connection and with the blue paint, a potentially unreliable electrical connection as well.

2. By disconnecting the truck's cables, you also take away any confusion the NOCO may experience if the truck starts to draw down on the battery (a possibility as we know these trucks are never truly "off").

I was impressed with the truck holding the vast majority of settings over the 24 hours or so while disconnected. The only thing I "lost" was MyView, a quick minute to add back the screens I use.
 
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SilverPigeon

SilverPigeon

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I should also add that this note from the Ancel battery tester manual is something that I believe we cannot guarantee with these trucks never really being "off", so another good reason to disconnect the truck from the battery entirely. By "inside", they mean "connected up to the truck":
IMG_2216.jpeg
IMG_2217.jpeg
 

RancidRacer

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Preamble:
Previous 3 BMS resets over a period of months, when at home, always on NOCO10 charger, sometimes all week; charger reports Green light (top-off/maintenance mode). Previous issues:
- No crank: 1
- "System off to save battery": 9
- Battery fail / won't hold charge on NOCO10: 3 (latest on 2 May 2024)
Example: Previous Melbourne trip, 342km return, cannot get better than 60's% SOC before truck puts 0A into battery

28/5/24 12:30 After all-night charging in truck, disconnected battery from truck, ran battery test, results (1), (2), (3):
- Volts: 12.50
- CCA measured: 670
- CCA Rating: 760
- Resistance: 4.50 mΩ
- SOH: 89%
- SOC: 88%

28/5/24 12:50 Leaving battery disconnected, charging with NOCO10, started different behaviour; instead of progressing straight through the charge lights, it gets to 3 lights (orange) and goes back to one light (small red). NOCO10 showed Green light after approximately an hour. Left battery disconnected from truck and charging with NOCO10 overnight.

29/5/24 09:30 Re-ran battery test (disconnected from truck), results (4), (5):
- Volts: 12.72
- CCA measured: 675
- CCA Rating: 760
- Resistance: 4.47 mΩ
- SOH: 90%
- SOC: 100%

29/5/24 10:00 Re-connected battery to truck, verified all truck settings and FORScan mods, changed Target SOC from 103% back to 90%, performed BMS reset. This was all done engine-off but connected to charger and left on charger until:

29/5/24 13:00 Test drive results:
- Start of ½ hour drive away (6)
- ½ hour in the gun shop ?
- End of ½ hour drive back (7)

Lessons learned:
1. The NOCO10 charger works perfectly
2. The Ancel battery tester works as advertised
3. Even though my truck sat turned off from Feb '23 to Nov '23 (with a handful of starts for shipping, conversion etc.) the battery was actually good (but low SOC) through all that time
4. Even when truck is asleep, the BMS strategy still prevents a full external charge
5. For a full charge and reliable battery test, the battery must be disconnected from the truck
6. The Ford PID for battery SOC% and current are only reporting what the BCM (via the BMS) is telling it, which is not necessarily the disconnected SOC% of the battery
7. A longer driving day will confirm or deny maintenance of SOC, but I'd feel better once I've got the BMS strategy updated. The original SOC level is the cause of the issues I noted at the top of the post, and likely either came from the battery manufacturer that way, or SOC sank during many months of engine-off. It never got better, likely because the battery never got an "out of truck" charge and BMS reset combination.

Conclusion: before going through the hassle of dealer testing and replacement, charge your H6 "out of truck" for 24 hours and BMS reset; get a cheap battery tester like the Ancel and charger like the NOCO10.
IMG_4668.png
I'm surprised that you have an H6 as opposed to an H7 as I have in my '23 KR PB.
 
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SilverPigeon

SilverPigeon

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I'm surprised that you have an H6 as opposed to an H7 as I have in my '23 KR PB.
I guess the "Emaciated Edition" gets a smaller battery in addition to all the deletes ?
 

Kodiak

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I guess the "Emaciated Edition" gets a smaller battery in addition to all the deletes ?
HA! I got the EE H6 battery too, and I got it at a time that Ford had a tremendous amount of deficient batteries going in the trucks. However mine has been great so far so I am one of the lucky ones.

It is coming up on 2 years old so I will "preemptively" look for a good sale on the H7 AGM and swap it out ahead of time. Maybe a nice Xmas sale somewhere.
 

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SilverPigeon

SilverPigeon

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...It is coming up on 2 years old so I will "preemptively" look for a good sale on the H7 AGM and swap it out ahead of time. Maybe a nice Xmas sale somewhere.
I'm going to flog the guts out of my H6 until I'm getting more no-cranks and my pretty, little Ancel says "change it, moron" ??

P.S. I carry a charged lithium jump starter at all times ??
 
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SilverPigeon

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...Lessons learned:...
7. A longer driving day will confirm or deny maintenance of SOC, but I'd feel better once I've got the BMS strategy updated...
So an update: after a couple of days with the NOCO10 charging via batt+ and frame ground to include the BMS, I come out this morning to find 69% SOC. The current (old) strategy drew the battery down instead of letting the NOCO10 charge it.
- 1 hour 45 mins drive kept the battery at 69% at the point of 0A in
- some hours of clay target shooting, involving multiple unlock/lock of doors, tailgate, power boards etc.
- 1 hour 45 mins drive home, BMS put battery to 72% SOC at the point of 0A in.

This confirms to me that the new strategy from an update is desirable ?
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