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Battery Maintainer

WBravo

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Morning all,


I'm looking at a couple of options of onboard battery maintainers, thought I'd get some input on what you all though.

I'm look at either a 2A or 10A Noco to compliment the monitor I'm adding to it. Links to each below, not such if the 10A is really necessary but I don't mind spending the extra money if the 10A is a much better option.

10: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G3M697M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W3QSMF9/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Appreciate any thoughts!
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Eskram

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The 10a will charge much faster, but it’s also physically larger. I got the noco 10a, non-onboard version, and used the ring eyelets to mount to the battery terminals. It’s tied up with a Velcro strap and I can just pop the hood and charge easily when needed. It’s also a little bit cheaper.
 

Buyer2021

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I got the noco 10a, non-onboard version, and used the ring eyelets to mount to the battery terminals.
DItto, and for the OP note that the Noco Genius10 (non-onboard version) does come with a bracket to mount the charger itself with velcro straps. I wouldn't use that for an underhood / exterior installation but IMO that bracket would be suitable for an in-cab 'semi-permanent' installation.

Personally I much prefer a 'removable / portable' charger at these prices so I can take it to other batteries-in-need, and I prefer the much quicker charge times that come with 10A vs 2A.

For me this hit the sweet spot, YMMV:

Amazon.com: NOCO GENIUS10, 10A Smart Car Battery Charger, 6V and 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries : Automotive
 
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TexasTruck

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I bought the 10a for my boat a while back. It worked so well I put another in my truck. I don't drive long enough to keep the battery in tip top shape. This device definitely helped my situation. Both batteries are AGM if that matters.
 

Blue22

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I initially installed a NOCO 10A onboard charger in my truck (pics attached). I mounted it on the fuse box cover with Velcro and ran the power cable to the passenger side wheel well and tucked it behind the wheel well liner when it wasn't being used. I would have preferred to run it to the driver's side but the power cord wasn't long enough. With it being parked in my garage, with little room in front or back when the garage door is closed, it was less than ideal because having it on the passenger side made it a hassle having to walk around to that side to plug and unplug it, which may not be an issue for you.
Ford F-150 Battery Maintainer IMG_5105

Ford F-150 Battery Maintainer IMG_5102

Ford F-150 Battery Maintainer IMG_5107


I thought about just using adding an extension cord to extend the plug to the driver's side but wanted something simpler and more convenient if I ever needed to use the charger for another vehicle so I changed course and went with an external charger (see pics). I wall-mounted it in front of where I park my truck and ran an extension cable so it comes out of the rubber boot at the driver's side tow hook. I figured if I ever need it to charge another vehicle it's easily accessible to do so. If the charger had been mounted in the truck, it would be way more inconvenient. If I ever am in a situation where I will be away for awhile, I just remove the Velcro strap that holds the charger to the wall and take it with me so I can plug it in where the truck will be sitting.

Ford F-150 Battery Maintainer IMG_3714

Ford F-150 Battery Maintainer IMG_3718
 

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Eskram

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I initially installed a NOCO 10A onboard charger in my truck (pics attached).

IMG_5102.webp
You may want to move the negative terminal from the charger to the battery itself (instead of body ground), inline with the BMS sensor. Otherwise, the truck doesn't 'see' that it's getting a charge and the SOC won't increase.

Well, until the truck sits undisturbed for some number of hours - I believe it'll do a SOC relearn.
 

Buyer2021

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You may want to move the negative terminal from the charger to the battery itself (instead of body ground), inline with the BMS sensor. Otherwise, the truck doesn't 'see' that it's getting a charge and the SOC won't increase.
With all due respect ^this^ is totally incorrect. A charger MUST be connected to the chassis-side of the BMS (sensor) on the negative battery-cable terminal for the system to 'see / sense' the effect of the charge.

The charger negative should never be connected directly to the negative battery terminal post, only to the opposite side of the BMS which is on the negative battery-cable terminal (the chassis ground bolt is a perfectly good location).

IF you connect directly to the negative battery post you BYPASS the BMS and it then CANNOT account for the charging input to the battery.

(edited for explicit clarity)
 
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FirstFord

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I'm looking at a couple of options of onboard battery maintainers, thought I'd get some input on what you all though.

I'm look at either a 2A or 10A Noco to compliment the monitor I'm adding to it. Links to each below, not such if the 10A is really necessary but I don't mind spending the extra money if the 10A is a much better option.
I have turned into a little bit of a fan of the NOCO chargers/maintainers, as I think they have nice features and good build quality. I have several chargers/maintainers used across multiple applications, thus have a cross section of products, including 1A, 2A, 5A, and 10A, but more 5A than any other. I use the NOCO products almost exclusively as battery maintainers, and as such, a large amp capacity isn't typically required. That being said, be aware that with a smaller amp version it will take longer to bring the battery up to "full" before it goes into "float" mode. Also it is worth noting that all of the applications where I use the chargers/maintainers (except for the truck!) are ones where the vehicle/ICE are not used for extended periods of time. Enter the NOCO 10A: I bought it specifically for the truck because the truck, while not used daily, IS used considerably for frequently than the other applications. I would also add that one could argue that a 10A will give you more versatility with this charger/maintainer to be used in other applications where you may actually need a charger rather than a maintainer.

As for my personal setup, I wired a connector to the battery that hides very descretely behind the grill (completely hidden), and the actual charging unit sits on the shelf and stays plugged in. When I pull in the garage, I reach through the grill (no bending over), grap the wired connector and plug the connector into the charger. Quick, easy, clean, no raising/closing the hood.
 
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FirstFord

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With all due respect this is incorrect. A charger must be connected AFTER the BMS sensor on the battery terminal for the system to 'see / sense' the effect of the charge.

The charger negative should never be connected directly to the battery terminal post, only to the opposite side of the BMS (the chassis ground post is a perfectly good location).
TOTALLY agree!!!!!!!
 

Blue22

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If I remember correctly, another reason to go with a larger amp charger/maintainer is if you ever want to do an OTA update manually using a Mongoose cable and FDRS, you are probably going to want a charger that is 10A or more.
 

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Eskram

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With all due respect ^this^ is totally incorrect. A charger MUST be connected to the chassis-side of the BMS sensor on the negative battery-cable terminal for the system to 'see / sense' the effect of the charge.

The charger negative should never be connected directly to the negative battery terminal post, only to the opposite side of the BMS which is on the negative battery-cable terminal (the chassis ground bolt is a perfectly good location).

IF you connect directly to the negative battery post you BYPASS the BMS and it then CANNOT account for the charging input to the battery.

(edited for explicit clarity)

I think we’re essentially saying the same thing, but you’re correct- that is a good grounding point.

I have mine mounted here:

Ford F-150 Battery Maintainer IMG_3259
 

Buyer2021

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You may want to move the negative terminal from the charger to the battery itself ....
This is the phrase that caught my eye and IMO is potentially dangerously misleading. It's now revealed that you, in fact, did not connect "to the battery itself", and I'm glad to see that.
 

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my 2 cents. I have several old Deltran battery tenders on old cars with flooded batteries, they are just 1.25A and sometimes it takes them over night to reach a standby mode. but the battery tender brand has been good to me. they have been faithfully mounted and working for 15 or more years.

However, for the F-150 I bought a Noco 5A unit. it brings the truck up to float mode in a few hours.

I went with Noco because it has specific AGM modes and the brand gets good reviews, I mounted a pigtail from the battery that comes out where the 110V cord on @Blue22's truck does. and the charger is inside my garage.

so its just a matter of do you want to run a 110v cord or a 12v cord to the truck.

the truck has been sitting out the recent snow plugged in and charged. never went into deep sleep and OTA 6.5 did its thing while buried under the snow

Ford F-150 Battery Maintainer IMG_9342
 

Eskram

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This is the phrase that caught my eye and IMO is potentially dangerously misleading. It's now revealed that you, in fact, did not connect "to the battery itself", and I'm glad to see that.
Agreed. I didn’t word that very well and it could be confusing.
 
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WBravo

WBravo

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my 2 cents. I have several old Deltran battery tenders on old cars with flooded batteries, they are just 1.25A and sometimes it takes them over night to reach a standby mode. but the battery tender brand has been good to me. they have been faithfully mounted and working for 15 or more years.

However, for the F-150 I bought a Noco 5A unit. it brings the truck up to float mode in a few hours.

I went with Noco because it has specific AGM modes and the brand gets good reviews, I mounted a pigtail from the battery that comes out where the 110V cord on @Blue22's truck does. and the charger is inside my garage.

so its just a matter of do you want to run a 110v cord or a 12v cord to the truck.

the truck has been sitting out the recent snow plugged in and charged. never went into deep sleep and OTA 6.5 did its thing while buried under the snow
All excellent points, I didn't think I'd be opening such a can of worms but this is definitely excellent information across the board.

I may just do the same and attach a pigtail but at present, I won't be able to connected this (charger side) to a wall as we have no garage while staying offsite. But I could set it up in such a way that I can later move it as was previously mentioned.

As for the OTA, I'll probably have 6.2.0 until 14.21.0 comes out, so I'm not terribly concerned about that ? my original blind optimism is long since dead.
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