B&O Speaker Upgrade Recommendation

[deanbychkowsky]

Upgrading your speakers without adding an amp is a complete waste of money because the factory B&O amp is hot garbage, and cannot drive higher quality speakers with the power or clarity they require. You might notice some difference but I'd be very surprised if it weren't just placebo effect. You also can't fix the bass roll-off past volume 15.

If you want good sound out of your system, install whatever speakers are within your budget and get a Kicker KEY200.4 along with the PAC APH-FD02 harness from @SoundsGoodStereo. It will be the best $320 you ever spent on your truck, and the improvement even with the stock speakers will blow your mind. They also have speaker and sound treatment packages.

I don't work for SGS, but them boys have looked after me right proper SEVERAL times and I will always recommend them first for audio!

Upgrading your speakers without adding an amp is a complete waste of money because the factory B&O amp is hot garbage, and cannot drive higher quality speakers with the power or clarity they require. You might notice some difference but I'd be very surprised if it weren't just placebo effect. You also can't fix the bass roll-off past volume 15.

If you want good sound out of your system, install whatever speakers are within your budget and get a Kicker KEY200.4 along with the PAC APH-FD02 harness from @SoundsGoodStereo. It will be the best $320 you ever spent on your truck, and the improvement even with the stock speakers will blow your mind. They also have speaker and sound treatment packages.

I don't work for SGS, but them boys have looked after me right proper SEVERAL times and I will always recommend them first for audio!

I know I’m reopening an old conversation but were you happy with the key 200.4? Are you still running it just tied into your door speakers? Did it clear up the choppy distorted rear door speakers or are they still choppy and distorted, just louder…. I’m looking for the most budget friendly way to get more power to my upgraded door speakers…. Thanks!

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[EcoBeastCA]

I know I’m reopening an old conversation but were you happy with the key 200.4? Are you still running it just tied into your door speakers? Did it clear up the choppy distorted rear door speakers or are they still choppy and distorted, just louder…. I’m looking for the most budget friendly way to get more power to my upgraded door speakers…. Thanks!

Yes, I'm happy with it. However, I ended up doing a LOT more than just the KEY as it turns out. I would say the KEY is the single biggest improvement that you would notice and is well worth the money, but sound quality is a very subjective thing and you may find yourself chasing further refinements like I did.

Ultimately, here's what I did:

• SGS mounting rack
• SGS door block-off plates
  • Incremental upgrade
• Full sound matting on all door interiors and surface (i.e. under the trim panel)
  • I used VEVOR sound mat and it's identical to Blackhole for a fraction of the price, pretty sure it comes from the same factory
  • Another incremental upgrade but highly recommended for tonal quality
• SGS sub block-off plate
  • Necessary if removing/replacing the factory sub
• Kicker KEY 200.4 amp
  • Biggest noticeable improvement in quality and volume
  • Once I had everything installed, it took only one auto-tuning session and it was pretty much perfect.
• Kicker HS10 compact subwoofer
  • The factory single-driver sub is pathetic; I didn't even know there WAS a sub based on the original system's performance
  • HS10 is a big step up from the factory sub, but may not be enough for everyone. Tuning is a BIG part of making it sound good.
  • I have mine tuned so it will rattle the mirrors at volume 30, but it really is song-dependent. Some songs you'd think would pound the bass don't necessarily have those frequencies turned up, and it's not the sub's fault.
• Zen Audio NAV-TV DSP
  • Replaces the factory POS "amp" which is hot garbage
  • Significant difference to tonal quality, but this is more of an audiophile's investment
  • After installation I could definitely discern instruments and notes I couldn't hear before on the factory amp
  • Very expensive upgrade that—depending on your ears—you may or may not consider a worthwhile investment. If you think you're above-average in terms of audible perception, get one.
• Gladen RS-series all doors plus tweeters
  • These will handle higher gains from the KEY without distortion, and contribute a fair amount to bass response as well
  • The tweeters are a HUGE improvement over the stock ones which are very shrill
  • Reasonable cost for much better performance
  • Buy from @SoundsGoodStereo and they come as plug-n-play kits, very easy upgrade

I really wasn't trying to spend a couple grand, but that's what I ended up doing anyway just cause these trucks' audio systems are such garbage. I probably could've just invested in one of SGS' custom-built upgrade packages, but doing it this way was a bit more economical. It let me buy things piecemeal and hear the difference one part at a time.

SGS' packages also tend to favor their own sub systems which are quite expensive, and take up a lot of room either on the back wall or under the seat. I'm sure they sound amazing, but I wanted to keep my factory jack, and I needed room on the amp board for my emergency equipment that audio amps would've taken up space for.

Overall, the only thing I might do differently (and if I had the room) is have a slightly larger amp. The advantage of the KEY though is it tunes everything for you which makes setup a LOT easier. It took me a lot of tuning initially because I accidentally had bi-amp turned on when my speakers weren't wired for it, and I had it installed before the NAV-TV module. After I finally got the NAV-TV installed as the final upgrade, one tune later and it was pretty much perfect for me. At volume 30 I have zero distortion on virtually every song, and I can't hear myself speak at an elevated volume. Loud enough for these aging ears.

I should note that I mainly listen to EDM, down-tempo and deep house via Youtube Music. Your music preference may demand other configurations.

 

[SlammedZero]

Yes, I'm happy with it. However, I ended up doing a LOT more than just the KEY as it turns out. I would say the KEY is the single biggest improvement that you would notice and is well worth the money, but sound quality is a very subjective thing and you may find yourself chasing further refinements like I did.

Ultimately, here's what I did:

• SGS mounting rack
• SGS door block-off plates
  • Incremental upgrade
• Full sound matting on all door interiors and surface (i.e. under the trim panel)
  • I used VEVOR sound mat and it's identical to Blackhole for a fraction of the price, pretty sure it comes from the same factory
  • Another incremental upgrade but highly recommended for tonal quality
• SGS sub block-off plate
  • Necessary if removing/replacing the factory sub
• Kicker KEY 200.4 amp
  • Biggest noticeable improvement in quality and volume
  • Once I had everything installed, it took only one auto-tuning session and it was pretty much perfect.
• Kicker HS10 compact subwoofer
  • The factory single-driver sub is pathetic; I didn't even know there WAS a sub based on the original system's performance
  • HS10 is a big step up from the factory sub, but may not be enough for everyone. Tuning is a BIG part of making it sound good.
  • I have mine tuned so it will rattle the mirrors at volume 30, but it really is song-dependent. Some songs you'd think would pound the bass don't necessarily have those frequencies turned up, and it's not the sub's fault.
• Zen Audio NAV-TV DSP
  • Replaces the factory POS "amp" which is hot garbage
  • Significant difference to tonal quality, but this is more of an audiophile's investment
  • After installation I could definitely discern instruments and notes I couldn't hear before on the factory amp
  • Very expensive upgrade that—depending on your ears—you may or may not consider a worthwhile investment. If you think you're above-average in terms of audible perception, get one.
• Gladen RS-series all doors plus tweeters
  • These will handle higher gains from the KEY without distortion, and contribute a fair amount to bass response as well
  • The tweeters are a HUGE improvement over the stock ones which are very shrill
  • Reasonable cost for much better performance
  • Buy from @SoundsGoodStereo and they come as plug-n-play kits, very easy upgrade

I really wasn't trying to spend a couple grand, but that's what I ended up doing anyway just cause these trucks' audio systems are such garbage. I probably could've just invested in one of SGS' custom-built upgrade packages, but doing it this way was a bit more economical. It let me buy things piecemeal and hear the difference one part at a time.

SGS' packages also tend to favor their own sub systems which are quite expensive, and take up a lot of room either on the back wall or under the seat. I'm sure they sound amazing, but I wanted to keep my factory jack, and I needed room on the amp board for my emergency equipment that audio amps would've taken up space for.

Overall, the only thing I might do differently (and if I had the room) is have a slightly larger amp. The advantage of the KEY though is it tunes everything for you which makes setup a LOT easier. It took me a lot of tuning initially because I accidentally had bi-amp turned on when my speakers weren't wired for it, and I had it installed before the NAV-TV module. After I finally got the NAV-TV installed as the final upgrade, one tune later and it was pretty much perfect for me. At volume 30 I have zero distortion on virtually every song, and I can't hear myself speak at an elevated volume. Loud enough for these aging ears.

I should note that I mainly listen to EDM, down-tempo and deep house via Youtube Music. Your music preference may demand other configurations.

Fantastic write-up. Thank you for that.

 

[Rineland]

Yes, I'm happy with it. However, I ended up doing a LOT more than just the KEY as it turns out. I would say the KEY is the single biggest improvement that you would notice and is well worth the money, but sound quality is a very subjective thing and you may find yourself chasing further refinements like I did.

Ultimately, here's what I did:

• SGS mounting rack
• SGS door block-off plates
  • Incremental upgrade
• Full sound matting on all door interiors and surface (i.e. under the trim panel)
  • I used VEVOR sound mat and it's identical to Blackhole for a fraction of the price, pretty sure it comes from the same factory
  • Another incremental upgrade but highly recommended for tonal quality
• SGS sub block-off plate
  • Necessary if removing/replacing the factory sub
• Kicker KEY 200.4 amp
  • Biggest noticeable improvement in quality and volume
  • Once I had everything installed, it took only one auto-tuning session and it was pretty much perfect.
• Kicker HS10 compact subwoofer
  • The factory single-driver sub is pathetic; I didn't even know there WAS a sub based on the original system's performance
  • HS10 is a big step up from the factory sub, but may not be enough for everyone. Tuning is a BIG part of making it sound good.
  • I have mine tuned so it will rattle the mirrors at volume 30, but it really is song-dependent. Some songs you'd think would pound the bass don't necessarily have those frequencies turned up, and it's not the sub's fault.
• Zen Audio NAV-TV DSP
  • Replaces the factory POS "amp" which is hot garbage
  • Significant difference to tonal quality, but this is more of an audiophile's investment
  • After installation I could definitely discern instruments and notes I couldn't hear before on the factory amp
  • Very expensive upgrade that—depending on your ears—you may or may not consider a worthwhile investment. If you think you're above-average in terms of audible perception, get one.
• Gladen RS-series all doors plus tweeters
  • These will handle higher gains from the KEY without distortion, and contribute a fair amount to bass response as well
  • The tweeters are a HUGE improvement over the stock ones which are very shrill
  • Reasonable cost for much better performance
  • Buy from @SoundsGoodStereo and they come as plug-n-play kits, very easy upgrade

I really wasn't trying to spend a couple grand, but that's what I ended up doing anyway just cause these trucks' audio systems are such garbage. I probably could've just invested in one of SGS' custom-built upgrade packages, but doing it this way was a bit more economical. It let me buy things piecemeal and hear the difference one part at a time.

SGS' packages also tend to favor their own sub systems which are quite expensive, and take up a lot of room either on the back wall or under the seat. I'm sure they sound amazing, but I wanted to keep my factory jack, and I needed room on the amp board for my emergency equipment that audio amps would've taken up space for.

Overall, the only thing I might do differently (and if I had the room) is have a slightly larger amp. The advantage of the KEY though is it tunes everything for you which makes setup a LOT easier. It took me a lot of tuning initially because I accidentally had bi-amp turned on when my speakers weren't wired for it, and I had it installed before the NAV-TV module. After I finally got the NAV-TV installed as the final upgrade, one tune later and it was pretty much perfect for me. At volume 30 I have zero distortion on virtually every song, and I can't hear myself speak at an elevated volume. Loud enough for these aging ears.

I should note that I mainly listen to EDM, down-tempo and deep house via Youtube Music. Your music preference may demand other configurations.

Phenomenal write-up, thank you!

I’m also looking for the next step in my audio upgrade “journey”. I had hopes that the Polk DB+ speakers would have volume and thump over the factory speakers considering their 92/93dB sensitivity. Unfortunately it’s a bit underwhelming compared to the factory speakers. I also sound treated the doors while the panels were off, minus the block off plates. From your write up, it sounds like my next upgrade will be the Kicker Key 200.4. Perhaps add the block off plates after that, then determine if there’s anything else I want to continue with.

I very much appreciate your detailed write-up with the contribution of each component, thank you again!

 

[EcoBeastCA]

Phenomenal write-up, thank you!

I’m also looking for the next step in my audio upgrade “journey”. I had hopes that the Polk DB+ speakers would have volume and thump over the factory speakers considering their 92/93dB sensitivity. Unfortunately it’s a bit underwhelming compared to the factory speakers. I also sound treated the doors while the panels were off, minus the block off plates. From your write up, it sounds like my next upgrade will be the Kicker Key 200.4. Perhaps add the block off plates after that, then determine if there’s anything else I want to continue with.

I very much appreciate your detailed write-up with the contribution of each component, thank you again!

If you only changed speakers and nothing else, you will not get any improvement. In fact, as you noted, a decrease in volume is expected because better quality speakers are made with heavier and thicker material, thus requiring more power to move the cones to produce the same volume as a lighter speaker.

The factory paper cone speakers are in fact not terrible. I was very surprised how well they were able to pound with the KEY driving them with signal out of the factory amp. Ultimately it came down to sound quality for me, which is where the NAV-TV made by far the largest difference.

It's sad because Ford cheaped out on virtually everything to do with the system, and replacing just one or two things really won't cut it if you're looking for true clean, loud sound. You literally have to do the whole thing. The only item that can really be left in place is the factory speaker wiring, which is typically more than adequate for the type of upgrade we're talking about here. I did run new wires to my tweeters simply because the kit came with them, pre-terminated with a matching connector, and I had everything apart anyway.

If you're only wanting to change one thing at a time, I would do it in this order:

• KEY 200.4
  • Single biggest improvement, best bang for your buck
• Sound matting/block-off plates
  • Small expense, will improve what the KEY is doing
• NAV-TV
  • Worth it once you have everything treated and decide you want an improvement to overall tonal quality
• Subwoofer
  • I recommend doing after the NAV-TV because it has a dedicated subwoofer output, and the factory amp ramps down bass at volume 15 and higher, reducing the sub's effectiveness. The KEY only makes up for so much.
  • You CAN drive the sub using the speaker outputs from the KEY, but quality issues would still persist.
• Speakers
  • The stock ones aren't terrible, and you will really only notice the difference after having improved the rest of the system
  • This might seem counterintuitive, but if you don't have clean signal driving your speakers, they can cost $10k each and will have no benefit. "Power is nothing without control."

 

[Rineland]

If you only changed speakers and nothing else, you will not get any improvement. In fact, as you noted, a decrease in volume is expected because better quality speakers are made with heavier and thicker material, thus requiring more power to move the cones to produce the same volume as a lighter speaker.

The factory paper cone speakers are in fact not terrible. I was very surprised how well they were able to pound with the KEY driving them with signal out of the factory amp. Ultimately it came down to sound quality for me, which is where the NAV-TV made by far the largest difference.

It's sad because Ford cheaped out on virtually everything to do with the system, and replacing just one or two things really won't cut it if you're looking for true clean, loud sound. You literally have to do the whole thing. The only item that can really be left in place is the factory speaker wiring, which is typically more than adequate for the type of upgrade we're talking about here. I did run new wires to my tweeters simply because the kit came with them, pre-terminated with a matching connector, and I had everything apart anyway.

If you're only wanting to change one thing at a time, I would do it in this order:

• KEY 200.4
  • Single biggest improvement, best bang for your buck
• Sound matting/block-off plates
  • Small expense, will improve what the KEY is doing
• NAV-TV
  • Worth it once you have everything treated and decide you want an improvement to overall tonal quality
• Subwoofer
  • I recommend doing after the NAV-TV because it has a dedicated subwoofer output, and the factory amp ramps down bass at volume 15 and higher, reducing the sub's effectiveness. The KEY only makes up for so much.
  • You CAN drive the sub using the speaker outputs from the KEY, but quality issues would still persist.
• Speakers
  • The stock ones aren't terrible, and you will really only notice the difference after having improved the rest of the system
  • This might seem counterintuitive, but if you don't have clean signal driving your speakers, they can cost $10k each and will have no benefit. "Power is nothing without control."

Excellent info. I’m pulling the door panels off today and going back to the stock speakers until I can work in the Key 200.4 and NAV-TV. I’m sure the sound matting I installed will have enough improvement for the time being.

I agree, clean signal is paramount. I know these Polks can shine and hit hard from a previous build I did in my last ride. I didn’t expect this B&O “amp” to be such a disappointment.

 

[CBGray]

Yes, I'm happy with it. However, I ended up doing a LOT more than just the KEY as it turns out. I would say the KEY is the single biggest improvement that you would notice and is well worth the money, but sound quality is a very subjective thing and you may find yourself chasing further refinements like I did.

Ultimately, here's what I did:

• SGS mounting rack
• SGS door block-off plates
  • Incremental upgrade
• Full sound matting on all door interiors and surface (i.e. under the trim panel)
  • I used VEVOR sound mat and it's identical to Blackhole for a fraction of the price, pretty sure it comes from the same factory
  • Another incremental upgrade but highly recommended for tonal quality
• SGS sub block-off plate
  • Necessary if removing/replacing the factory sub
• Kicker KEY 200.4 amp
  • Biggest noticeable improvement in quality and volume
  • Once I had everything installed, it took only one auto-tuning session and it was pretty much perfect.
• Kicker HS10 compact subwoofer
  • The factory single-driver sub is pathetic; I didn't even know there WAS a sub based on the original system's performance
  • HS10 is a big step up from the factory sub, but may not be enough for everyone. Tuning is a BIG part of making it sound good.
  • I have mine tuned so it will rattle the mirrors at volume 30, but it really is song-dependent. Some songs you'd think would pound the bass don't necessarily have those frequencies turned up, and it's not the sub's fault.
• Zen Audio NAV-TV DSP
  • Replaces the factory POS "amp" which is hot garbage
  • Significant difference to tonal quality, but this is more of an audiophile's investment
  • After installation I could definitely discern instruments and notes I couldn't hear before on the factory amp
  • Very expensive upgrade that—depending on your ears—you may or may not consider a worthwhile investment. If you think you're above-average in terms of audible perception, get one.
• Gladen RS-series all doors plus tweeters
  • These will handle higher gains from the KEY without distortion, and contribute a fair amount to bass response as well
  • The tweeters are a HUGE improvement over the stock ones which are very shrill
  • Reasonable cost for much better performance
  • Buy from @SoundsGoodStereo and they come as plug-n-play kits, very easy upgrade

I really wasn't trying to spend a couple grand, but that's what I ended up doing anyway just cause these trucks' audio systems are such garbage. I probably could've just invested in one of SGS' custom-built upgrade packages, but doing it this way was a bit more economical. It let me buy things piecemeal and hear the difference one part at a time.

SGS' packages also tend to favor their own sub systems which are quite expensive, and take up a lot of room either on the back wall or under the seat. I'm sure they sound amazing, but I wanted to keep my factory jack, and I needed room on the amp board for my emergency equipment that audio amps would've taken up space for.

Overall, the only thing I might do differently (and if I had the room) is have a slightly larger amp. The advantage of the KEY though is it tunes everything for you which makes setup a LOT easier. It took me a lot of tuning initially because I accidentally had bi-amp turned on when my speakers weren't wired for it, and I had it installed before the NAV-TV module. After I finally got the NAV-TV installed as the final upgrade, one tune later and it was pretty much perfect for me. At volume 30 I have zero distortion on virtually every song, and I can't hear myself speak at an elevated volume. Loud enough for these aging ears.

I should note that I mainly listen to EDM, down-tempo and deep house via Youtube Music. Your music preference may demand other configurations.

@EcoBeastCA As others have said, great writeup!

I had one question - you mention you put Gladen RS in all your doors - I'm assuming that means the rear doors as well. You're also using NAV-TV, plus the Kicker 200.4. I'm doing the same with the exception that I used the PAC AmpPRO 4 instead of NAV-TV. With this setup, unless I"m missing something, you'd need a way to get power to the rear speakers? I was just curious how you pulled that off? Thanks!

 

[EcoBeastCA]

@EcoBeastCA As others have said, great writeup!

I had one question - you mention you put Gladen RS in all your doors - I'm assuming that means the rear doors as well. You're also using NAV-TV, plus the Kicker 200.4. I'm doing the same with the exception that I used the PAC AmpPRO 4 instead of NAV-TV. With this setup, unless I"m missing something, you'd need a way to get power to the rear speakers? I was just curious how you pulled that off? Thanks!

I just used the factory wiring with the PAC Audio harness. Shouldn't be any mystery to it, all the wiring for the 8-speaker system (except the center channel and maybe the tweeters?) is right there at the back wall of the cab and follows conventional car audio color coding.

 

[CBGray]

I just used the factory wiring with the PAC Audio harness. Shouldn't be any mystery to it, all the wiring for the 8-speaker system (except the center channel and maybe the tweeters?) is right there at the back wall of the cab and follows conventional car audio color coding.

OK, I think I now see what I was missing. If I skip sending the rear speakers inputs into the PAC AmpPRO 4, and instead just wire them to the new rears directly, they'll continue to get fed by the head unit. Then everything else in the system focuses on the front stage only. What was tripping me up was that if they fed into the PAC AmpPRO 4, they'd come out with no power and need an amp. With the Kicker 200.4 set to front stage only, that's where the confusion was coming from on supporting the rears with power. Cool. Thanks again!

 

[Ham]

OK, I think I now see what I was missing. If I skip sending the rear speakers inputs into the PAC AmpPRO 4, and instead just wire them to the new rears directly, they'll continue to get fed by the head unit. Then everything else in the system focuses on the front stage only. What was tripping me up was that if they fed into the PAC AmpPRO 4, they'd come out with no power and need an amp. With the Kicker 200.4 set to front stage only, that's where the confusion was coming from on supporting the rears with power. Cool. Thanks again!

Unless something has changed, using a integration module (NavTV, PAC, etc) it's all or none as the B&O amp should be disconnected. Or is he using passive crossovers because that would work on a 4 channel.

 

[CBGray]

Unless something has changed, using a integration module (NavTV, PAC, etc) it's all or none as the B&O amp should be disconnected. Or is he using passive crossovers because that would work on a 4 channel.

I thought the all or nothing as well, but in researching today, according to Plug-n-Play kits' website, for the 8 channel B&O, the rear speakers are run off the head unit, getting about 15-20 watts. So, they are not part of the factory amp power. As I understand it, that either leaves keeping them connected as they are and leaving them off the PAC so they don't get set to zero, or sending them through the PAC and amping them with a separate small 2-channel of their own - this is assuming one is wanting to use the Kicker Key 200.4 in bi-amp mode.

 

[EcoBeastCA]

I did not bi-amp my fronts as I prefer a full surround system rather than a front stage, so I powered my rears with channels 3 & 4 from the KEY. The Gladen RS kit I got from SGS included passive crossovers which I used for the fronts.

 

[Dvcpro13]

Excellent info. I’m pulling the door panels off today and going back to the stock speakers until I can work in the Key 200.4 and NAV-TV. I’m sure the sound matting I installed will have enough improvement for the time being.

I agree, clean signal is paramount. I know these Polks can shine and hit hard from a previous build I did in my last ride. I didn’t expect this B&O “amp” to be such a disappointment.

Hi... I saw in the quoted post that you planned to pull off the rear door panels to source the wiring to the rear speakers. Did you end up running back from the speakers to the amp? Do you happen to remember what the color codes were for the left and right rear speakers? I was hoping to tap in closer to the harness at the B&O amp. Thanks

 

[techobrien]

Hi... I saw in the quoted post that you planned to pull off the rear door panels to source the wiring to the rear speakers. Did you end up running back from the speakers to the amp? Do you happen to remember what the color codes were for the left and right rear speakers? I was hoping to tap in closer to the harness at the B&O amp. Thanks

What sound system does your truck have? The 8ch is listed earlier in this thread and I have the rest of the wiring diagrams laying around somewhere.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/b-o-speaker-upgrade-recommendation.28713/post-523957

 

[Dvcpro13]

What sound system does your truck have? The 8ch is listed earlier in this thread and I have the rest of the wiring diagrams laying around somewhere.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/b-o-speaker-upgrade-recommendation.28713/post-523957

Ugh I guess I missed that post. Sorry. I have the 8 speaker B&O. The post you quoted gives me the info I need. Thank you!

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