Axle Nut Torque Issue after Coilover Install

[GRowdy]

Hi all, been reading the forum since I picked up my '23 302a PB last spring. I'm buttoning up the install of some Bilstein 6112's and ran into an issue I can't quite wrap my head around.

I've been following along with the ford performance leveling kit instructions as it conveniently includes pictures and torque specs. When I go to re-torque the axle nut (pg 16), the whole CV joint begins to spin at 25 Nm, so I can't reach 40 Nm. I believe I properly re-seated the CV joint back into the IWE (pg 15) because my measurements match up. When I spin my wheel hub, the CV joint does not turn, just like the instructions say it shouldn't.

I "solved" this issue by grabbing the boot of the CV joint with one hand while tightening the nut with the other hand, allowing me to reach 40 Nm. My question is...have I missed something, assembled something incorrectly, or broken something? I can't find a single forum post or youtube video showing what I'm encountering. I'm not even sure if anything is wrong--it's just that from what I can tell, no one else has a problem torquing the axle nut down. Youtube videos show people tightening it down just fine (no spinning CV joint from what I can see).

Potentially relevant pieces of information:

• Both front wheels have been removed
• Both rear wheels are still on the ground
• This is happening on both front axle nuts/cv joints
• Spinning the hubs does not spin the CV joint on either side
• I did have to pop the CV joint out of the hubs on both sides during the coilover install, but I believe I re-seated them correctly as outlined in the ford performance instructions
• Spinning one CV joint doesn't spin the other, but it does spin the front drive shaft

This may be a non-issue, I just thought it was strange that I couldn't find anyone else that ran into the spinning CV joint problem when torquing the axle nut, which makes me think I missed something. Thanks!

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[HammaMan]

What trim is your truck?
XL and XLT powerboosts are the only 2 models that have IWEs. All others (501 and up) have continuously live front axles with no means of disconnect.

 

[Rineland]

Hi all, been reading the forum since I picked up my '23 PB last spring. I'm buttoning up the install of some Bilstein 6112's and ran into an issue I can't quite wrap my head around.

I've been following along with the ford performance leveling kit instructions as it conveniently includes pictures and torque specs. When I go to re-torque the axle nut (pg 16), the whole CV joint begins to spin at 25 Nm, so I can't reach 40 Nm. I believe I properly re-seated the CV joint back into the IWE (pg 15) because my measurements match up. When I spin my wheel hub, the CV joint does not turn, just like the instructions say it shouldn't.

I "solved" this issue by grabbing the boot of the CV joint with one hand while tightening the nut with the other hand, allowing me to reach 40 Nm. My question is...have I missed something, assembled something incorrectly, or broken something? I can't find a single forum post or youtube video showing what I'm encountering. I'm not even sure if anything is wrong--it's just that from what I can tell, no one else has a problem torquing the axle nut down. Youtube videos show people tightening it down just fine (no spinning CV joint from what I can see).

Potentially relevant pieces of information:

• Both front wheels have been removed
• Both rear wheels are still on the ground
• This is happening on both front axle nuts/cv joints
• Spinning the hubs does not spin the CV joint on either side
• I did have to pop the CV joint out of the hubs on both sides during the coilover install, but I believe I re-seated them correctly as outlined in the ford performance instructions
• Spinning one CV joint doesn't spin the other, but it does spin the front drive shaft

This may be a non-issue, I just thought it was strange that I couldn't find anyone else that ran into the spinning CV joint problem when torquing the axle nut, which makes me think I missed something. Thanks!

I had the same issue doing my install. Ended up grabbing the CV shaft and holding it while a friend torqued the nut to spec. Was considering a strap wrench but didn’t end up needing it. If you’re holding onto the boot, just be careful not to stress it too much and create a tear.

Your explanation of how the hubs are behaving is correct for when the truck is in 2WD. The hubs are disengaged from the CV shafts so spinning the hub should not spin the shaft. When you spin the cv shaft, the next “easiest to spin” component connected to the front differential will spin, in this case it was the drive shaft and that’s occurring because the transfer case is not locked in to 4WD so it can spin freely. If you spin the driveshaft you should see one of the CV shafts spin. Not likely to see both since it’s an open front differential and the internal friction will be different from one side to the other so the force and movement will be on the side with the least resistance.

 

[GRowdy]

What trim is your truck?
XL and XLT powerboosts are the only 2 models that have IWEs. All others (501 and up) have continuously live front axles with no means of disconnect.

Oops, I should've mentioned it's a 302a FX4.

I had the same issue doing my install. Ended up grabbing the CV shaft and holding it while a friend torqued the nut to spec. Was considering a strap wrench but didn’t end up needing it. If you’re holding onto the boot, just be careful not to stress it too much and create a tear.

Your explanation of how the hubs are behaving is correct for when the truck is in 2WD. The hubs are disengaged from the CV shafts so spinning the hub should not spin the shaft. When you spin the cv shaft, the next “easiest to spin” component connected to the front differential will spin, in this case it was the drive shaft and that’s occurring because the transfer case is not locked in to 4WD so it can spin freely. If you spin the driveshaft you should see one of the CV shafts spin. Not likely to see both since it’s an open front differential and the internal friction will be different from one side to the other so the force and movement will be on the side with the least resistance.

Thank you for the detailed response, and good to hear you ran into the same thing. I had been trying to think about the front diff and whether or not this was the expected response from turning the joint. I think what was tripping me up is that I didn't have to hold the CV joint to loosen either axle nut, but now I apparently have to hold it to tighten them back down, and I'm not sure why that is. If the CV joint spins at 25 Nm, how was I able to break the nut loose if it had been torqued to 40 Nm (theoretically)? I have only been using hand tools, no impact. It has been a few days since I disassembled each side but I want to say I had to step on the brake to get the nut loose, but now stepping on the brake doesn't help me torque it back down? Clearly I should've done this all in one day so I can actually remember what I did

 

[Rineland]

Oops, I should've mentioned it's a 302a FX4.



Thank you for the detailed response, and good to hear you ran into the same thing. I had been trying to think about the front diff and whether or not this was the expected response from turning the joint. I think what was tripping me up is that I didn't have to hold the CV joint to loosen either axle nut, but now I apparently have to hold it to tighten them back down, and I'm not sure why that is. If the CV joint spins at 25 Nm, how was I able to break the nut loose if it had been torqued to 40 Nm (theoretically)? I have only been using hand tools, no impact. It has been a few days since I disassembled each side but I want to say I had to step on the brake to get the nut loose, but now stepping on the brake doesn't help me torque it back down? Clearly I should've done this all in one day so I can actually remember what I did

Being an engineer, I’m definitely one to overthink things. But it never crossed my mind as to why I was able to loosen that nut without holding the CV, but had to hold it to tighten it. I was probably too excited to get everything apart and back together and see the finished product.
Definitely a good move to only use hand tools, and torque everything to spec. I only used an impact for removing the lugs to get the wheels off. Everything got torqued three separate times when I reassembled. Including the lug nuts. I had a bad experience with my last truck where the dealer didn’t tighten any of the lugs on the driver’s side and my front wheel came off leaving the parking lot. I’m very meticulous about it now.

 

[GRowdy]

Being an engineer, I’m definitely one to overthink things. But it never crossed my mind as to why I was able to loosen that nut without holding the CV, but had to hold it to tighten it. I was probably too excited to get everything apart and back together and see the finished product.
Definitely a good move to only use hand tools, and torque everything to spec. I only used an impact for removing the lugs to get the wheels off. Everything got torqued three separate times when I reassembled. Including the lug nuts. I had a bad experience with my last truck where the dealer didn’t tighten any of the lugs on the driver’s side and my front wheel came off leaving the parking lot. I’m very meticulous about it now.

I'm an engineer too and I'm apparently guilty of way overthinking this whole axle nut issue ?. But, as you said, I'm worried about something important coming loose as I drive down the road, which is why I've tried to be very careful retorquing things.

Speaking of which, did you happen to loosen/replace your UCA when you did your install? I'm not sure how I could possibly get a torque wrench on those bolts, let alone with the wheel on when it's back on the ground. I guess I could jack the LCA up until the UCA is at the right angle while the truck is still up, but I'm not sure what angle that will be.

 

[Supercub]

Speaking of axle nuts…. I have both a 21 and 22 Powerboost. The 21 doesn't have the max towing package and has a small axle nut as do prior ones. The 22 does have the max towing and has a big @sse’d axle nut. is it the max towing that makes them different sizes? Both are Lariats fx4’s.

 

[TexasTruck]

Speaking of which, did you happen to loosen/replace your UCA when you did your install? I'm not sure how I could possibly get a torque wrench on those bolts, let alone with the wheel on when it's back on the ground. I guess I could jack the LCA up until the UCA is at the right angle while the truck is still up, but I'm not sure what angle that will be.

I'm an engineer too, ha.... what is it about us that makes doing things so difficult I can't even paint a door without over thinking it

I replaced my UCA's at the same time I installed the FP leveling kit. Like you, I read and watched as many installs as I could. Some loosen the UCA's so you're not fighting the rubber bushings in the UCA. Some will also loosen the LCA bolts too so it droops easier and can clear the two long studs in the bottom of the coilover/strut.

I thought and thought about this too, same dilemma as you. Once I was ready to put the wheels back on, Ideally two jacks seem better, but I read several off-road DIY lift kit install posts where you can do the same with just one and one of your wheels. Put the wheel on one side while you work on the other side, then switch it around once it's torqued.

I positioned the jack under the LCA as close out to the wheel studs as possible. My floor jack has a round foot, so I put a 2x4 on edge to fit on the outside the LCA ball joint; watch the brake dust shield. Jack up the truck until it starts to lift off the jack stands and stop.

At this point, I was able to use my torque wrench and shallow socket to get on the UCA nuts. I remember if you loosen all the Christmas tree push pins on the coil over head to get the wires and what not out of the way it helps. I was able to press/bend the wheel liner with the head of the torque wrench to get on each nut. You also need an 18MM (OEM bolts) swivel head wrench on the UCA bolt head to keep it from turning. You can also use a crows foot and a torque wrench, but then you have to recalculate the torque value because the crows foot adds leverage to the torque wrench. There are online calculators to help figure that out.

Now to through a "wrench" into this, if you're not planning to replace your UCA's, I've read and watched others remove the LCA instead. You don't have to fool around with the axle nut or CV or hubs or UCA bolts or etc. You need a wheel alignment when all is said and done anyway, so why not...

I hope this helps.....

 

[HammaMan]

I dropped my LCA after first using a sharpie to show position of the nuts/bolts (just drew circles around them). I had an early 22 and had to wait a few months before anyone would align it due to the official specs not being in the machine for that MY. 2 different shops of the caliber you'd want doing it including the dealer wouldn't touch it. When I put it back together I realigned the LCA bolt/nuts and despite the rise it was but a hair out of spec. I couldn't notice anything driving it while waiting for the specs/files to be updated.

 

[hotrodmex]

Speaking of axle nuts…. I have both a 21 and 22 Powerboost. The 21 doesn't have the max towing package and has a small axle nut as do prior ones. The 22 does have the max towing and has a big @sse’d axle nut. is it the max towing that makes them different sizes? Both are Lariats fx4’s.

Sometime in very early 22 they switched from the eIWE to full time axles on the front of the non-locking TOD trucks. Nothing to do with Max Tow. So your 22 doesn't have eIWEs, and the front axles are always turning.

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