A2B interface questions

[chris51080]

I know that there are many threads on the A2B interfaces, but most appear to be a bit outdated.

From what I have seen, there are 3 primary options for an A2B interface with the B&O systems:
PAC AP4-FD31
MoBridge DA-G2
NAVtv Zen A2B

They all seem to have their pros/cons, and all seem to have had some reports of issues, although I believe they are all generally reliable. I’ve got a few questions for those with experience, now that these have been in the wild for a few years and have had firmware updates.

1. Navigation and drivers assist alerts - do these all provide the factory Nav and DA alerts? Do these alerts work with both the standard B&O as well as the Unleashed systems? Which speakers are mapped for the alerts? Are there any issues with this integration with these units?

2. Reliability - how have these units been holding up?

3. Sound Quality - is there any appreciable difference between the sound quality when using these units in an otherwise identical setup? I’ve heard some grumblings that NavTV > MoBridge > PAC. Is there any truth to that?

4. Setup - Are these all essentially equal in terms of setup, or is there more tinkering required with one over the others?

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[OleMustyBag]

I have ran only one of these, the Mobridge DA-G2. Initial setup was easy but requires a laptop. I bought the mid grade one to have the option to use coax outputs but next time I would get the entry as all I needed was optical full signal. Make sure you update to the newest software before you setup. I set it up about 8 months ago so I am a bit rusty on all the details of setup but as I recall I was able to choose which speaker/level that the factory chimes and nav get passed through. I chose front mid. I receive full pass through of all audio signal and all chimes and all navigation. I have had zero reliability issues with it. In fact any time there is an issue with sound it’s always the factory ford unit and after a reboot I am back up and running. Make sure you use forscan to set the audio signal flat so that you can properly process the signal in your DSP. If you plan to not run a DSP get the high end one so you can tune through the Mobridge unit. I recommend a Helix DSP I have had very good results but I am running every speaker active. The setup on the Helix was quite intimidating but results were amazing!
Hope this helps.

 

[chris51080]

I have ran only one of these, the Mobridge DA-G2. Initial setup was easy but requires a laptop. I bought the mid grade one to have the option to use coax outputs but next time I would get the entry as all I needed was optical full signal. Make sure you update to the newest software before you setup. I set it up about 8 months ago so I am a bit rusty on all the details of setup but as I recall I was able to choose which speaker/level that the factory chimes and nav get passed through. I chose front mid. I receive full pass through of all audio signal and all chimes and all navigation. I have had zero reliability issues with it. In fact any time there is an issue with sound it’s always the factory ford unit and after a reboot I am back up and running. Make sure you use forscan to set the audio signal flat so that you can properly process the signal in your DSP. If you plan to not run a DSP get the high end one so you can tune through the Mobridge unit. I recommend a Helix DSP I have had very good results but I am running every speaker active. The setup on the Helix was quite intimidating but results were amazing!
Hope this helps.

Thanks for the input.
Im in the middle of building out my system. I have purchased an MTI behind the seat dual 6.5" sub package, and the Helix V Eight amp/dsp combo. Im leaning towards Stereo Integrity M25/M3/TM8 components which will be fully active.
Already did the sound deadening in the doors, as well as block off plates with the factory setup, and I have to say that those did make a noticeable difference.

Do you know of any downside going with the Toslink instead of RCA MoBridge?

 

[OleMustyBag]

Thanks for the input.
Im in the middle of building out my system. I have purchased an MTI behind the seat dual 6.5" sub package, and the Helix V Eight amp/dsp combo. Im leaning towards Stereo Integrity M25/M3/TM8 components which will be fully active.
Already did the sound deadening in the doors, as well as block off plates with the factory setup, and I have to say that those did make a noticeable difference.

Do you know of any downside going with the Toslink instead of RCA MoBridge?

I have a Helix V Twelve I tried both inputs and felt that I had a cleaner signal through the toslink also much less wires for a cleaner install. Also there is no chance of adding noise thought the optical input. I like Stereo Integrity a lot but have never bought any of their stuff. I want to try and fit their SQL15 under the back seat with one of those pretty amps they make driving it. I agree on sound deadening I gutted the entire truck and did three layers on the roof because I have no sunroof and it was stupid loud. Did two layers on the floor and doors. I still need to finish my back doors. But huge improvement on sound quality and much less road noise on the freeway. I believe my truck is now quieter then my wife’s Lexus. I am thinking about putting in 8” helix s200 in all 4 doors and adding two of those new Helix V two amps to drive them so I paused on finishing the back doors. Get a decent microphone to tune with. Also when setting up the helix I had to turn up the digital input gain before I heard any sound. (Took me 2 days to figure that out I thought the Mobridge was not working) Planning on doing a retune with Helix new DSP6 software soon. Will MTI tune for you, or will you have to tune?

 

[chris51080]

Appreciate the tips.

Funny you mention sound treating the roof, I’ve been looking into that this morning.

I’m going to give tuning a try on my own, and if that fails I’ll just use a local shop to do it.

 

[OleMustyBag]

Appreciate the tips.

Funny you mention sound treating the roof, I’ve been looking into that this morning.

I’m going to give tuning a try on my own, and if that fails I’ll just use a local shop to do it.

Get on YouTube and look at RAW-Cat and Socket they both have a lot of videos on Helix tuning. Download it on your desktop and play around with the software before starting on your truck. The software is very overwhelming when you first open it. Let me know if you need help on figuring anything out I will try to help best I can.

On the roof the biggest difference is in the rain and car wash. But very happy with it.

 

[CBGray]

I can only speak to the PAC as that is what I am using. My experience has been great. It was easy to set up and nothing has changed as far as what I had before - feels like factory experience with all the integrations. I haven't found a single differece.

I did have to hook up the laptop to the PAC when I was installing and testing the chimes as they were too low if memory serves me right. Could have been a bit loud. Doesn't really matter, the main thing is that it was a simple slider UI and I just adusted to what I thought was the factory level and that was it.

I'm using a Kicker 200.4 as my amp, and for what I'm trying to achieve, that has been a great setup, no regrets. It looks like the PAC is $449 on Amazon today. That's $30 cheaper than when I got mine.

 

[cnitty76]

I have ran only one of these, the Mobridge DA-G2. Initial setup was easy but requires a laptop. I bought the mid grade one to have the option to use coax outputs but next time I would get the entry as all I needed was optical full signal. Make sure you update to the newest software before you setup. I set it up about 8 months ago so I am a bit rusty on all the details of setup but as I recall I was able to choose which speaker/level that the factory chimes and nav get passed through. I chose front mid. I receive full pass through of all audio signal and all chimes and all navigation. I have had zero reliability issues with it. In fact any time there is an issue with sound it’s always the factory ford unit and after a reboot I am back up and running. Make sure you use forscan to set the audio signal flat so that you can properly process the signal in your DSP. If you plan to not run a DSP get the high end one so you can tune through the Mobridge unit. I recommend a Helix DSP I have had very good results but I am running every speaker active. The setup on the Helix was quite intimidating but results were amazing!
Hope this helps.

Can you run this with factory speaker wiring?
I don't want to run new speaker wire to my doors.

 

[chris51080]

Can you run this with factory speaker wiring?
I don't want to run new speaker wire to my doors.

Other than the T-harness, you utilize factory speaker wiring.

 

[cnitty76]

Other than the T-harness, you utilize factory speaker wiring.

Are all needed harnesses included like the AmpPRO AP4-FD31 for plug and play?

It isn't clear to me looking at the Mobridge instructions online if they provide.

 

[chris51080]

Mobridge A2B does not have all of the harnesses included. I think they have the T harness, but you still need to get to the speaker harness at the factory amp.

The PAC unit does have all of that included so it is more plug and play.

 

[cnitty76]

Mobridge A2B does not have all of the harnesses included. I think they have the T harness, but you still need to get to the speaker harness at the factory amp.

The PAC unit does have all of that included so it is more plug and play.

Thanks for this info I just wanted to make sure I was not missing something.

 

[OleMustyBag]

Can you run this with factory speaker wiring?
I don't want to run new speaker wire to my doors.

To have a truly active system completely controlled by the DSP You will need to run wires to the tweeters as they are powered from the head unit. Also I added speakers in the front corners of the dash and had to run wires for those as well. Just keep in mind the wattage you are running and make sure to not overload the factory wires.

 

[cnitty76]

To have a truly active system completely controlled by the DSP You will need to run wires to the tweeters as they are powered from the head unit. Also I added speakers in the front corners of the dash and had to run wires for those as well. Just keep in mind the wattage you are running and make sure to not overload the factory wires.

Doors are my only speakers still using OEM wires.

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