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2022 CCD shocks ride like crap?

Snakebitten

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Figured it out during the daylight. Definitely firms things up. Fixes porpoising at speed over consecutive bumps, but definitely makes things even as small as manhole covers jostling. I like it better than the stock softness, but I think your fancy way of coding for firmness while retaining softness over small bumps is the way to go. I’ll take the quick and dirty way until I have time to get forscan going.
I'm glad to hear that you successfully pulled the plug. And you confirmed that the difference is NOT subtle.

And I agree with you that the max damping verifies that it's not hard to improve on the oem programmed ride, but we can do better than just hardwiring to max damping.

The challenge is to methodically figure out the correlation of the AsBuilt values to the programming algorithm that we have no way of altering?

The good news, in my opinion, is that CCD has the potential to be a legitimate active suspension that is better than what Ford delivers oem.
But unlike the aftermarket options that the Mustang or a Porsche has, we F150'rs have to tweak it ourselves.

On a Mustang you can just purchase an aftermarket VDM and plug it in. It's like buying a suspension tune for your active suspension.
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DBL R

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I'm glad to hear that you successfully pulled the plug. And you confirmed that the difference is NOT subtle.

And I agree with you that the max damping verifies that it's not hard to improve on the oem programmed ride, but we can do better than just hardwiring to max damping.

The challenge is to methodically figure out the correlation of the AsBuilt values to the programming algorithm that we have no way of altering?

The good news, in my opinion, is that CCD has the potential to be a legitimate active suspension that is better than what Ford delivers oem.
But unlike the aftermarket options that the Mustang or a Porsche has, we F150'rs have to tweak it ourselves.

On a Mustang you can just purchase an aftermarket VDM and plug it in. It's like buying a suspension tune for your active suspension.
I think I’m able to feel the larger difference because of how my rear end has changed with adding airlift/bags. OEM suspension settings exacerbated the pogo effect of bags, so a firmer damper stops the bags from engaging so much. The 5000’s are probably “too much” for a 1/4 ton, but they were the only kit that works with CCD, powerboost, and blue cruise, so it is what it is. Also you got me thinking, why not plug and play? They can do it with other forscan objectives, such as no honk and Bambi mode. 4dtech has a bunch of options that plug into the obd2 and change forscan parameters, so it may not be easy, but probably not entirely impossible.

https://www.4dtech.com/hornhonk/
 

DBL R

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Welp. With the quick and dirty unplug method you lose drive mode selection. Looks like the change to forscan will be sooner.
 

Snakebitten

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That actually makes sense since Ford chose to tie the various damping-maps to driving modes.

Unlike in the Raptor where the two are kept independent.

I actually didn't notice that when I unplugged the shock. So I assume it defaults to the default driving mode? (Normal)
 

isthatahemi

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I decided to try this mod, to get rid of the excessive floatiness, and increase wheel control, as Ford seems to think Platinum customers like the blown shock feel..

I will post more later, but when I started looking at the parameters, a few things jumped out at me.
  1. The values on my truck were similar in certain regards, the 750 number was present in about half the lines, the others were wither 575, or -4600(?) (I will post later)
  2. The values can't be "unsprung weight", (unless it's not KG's), it does line up fairly accurately with the full sprung weight at GVWR though. The unsprung weight would be prolly 150KG per corner rear, and 70kg per corner front.
  3. I increased by 20% all the positive values (and left the negatives alone), and the post bump jiggles are 50% better, and the floatiness is reduced to tolerable levels, but another 5% at least is called for imo.
Thanks again for providing the seed info, the stock floaty / boaty ride is someone's brainfart / proxy for luxury, like they've never driven a German vehicle, or something.
 

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Snakebitten

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I decided to try this mod, to get rid of the excessive floatiness, and increase wheel control, as Ford seems to think Platinum customers like the blown shock feel..

I will post more later, but when I started looking at the parameters, a few things jumped out at me.
  1. The values on my truck were similar in certain regards, the 750 number was present in about half the lines, the others were wither 575, or -4600(?) (I will post later)
  2. The values can't be "unsprung weight", (unless it's not KG's), it does line up fairly accurately with the full sprung weight at GVWR though. The unsprung weight would be prolly 150KG per corner rear, and 70kg per corner front.
  3. I increased by 20% all the positive values (and left the negatives alone), and the post bump jiggles are 50% better, and the floatiness is reduced to tolerable levels, but another 5% at least is called for imo.
Thanks again for providing the seed info, the stock floaty / boaty ride is someone's brainfart / proxy for luxury, like they've never driven a German vehicle, or something.

Thanks for sharing.

So....... since you are in there messin around anyway....... Crank it up some more and let us know what you think? ?

And if you are feeling really scientist-ific, why not play with that super enticing front "wheel rate" parameter? It's begging to reveal that it will "tune" the front end.
 

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I decided to try this mod, to get rid of the excessive floatiness, and increase wheel control, as Ford seems to think Platinum customers like the blown shock feel..

I will post more later, but when I started looking at the parameters, a few things jumped out at me.
  1. The values on my truck were similar in certain regards, the 750 number was present in about half the lines, the others were wither 575, or -4600(?) (I will post later)
  2. The values can't be "unsprung weight", (unless it's not KG's), it does line up fairly accurately with the full sprung weight at GVWR though. The unsprung weight would be prolly 150KG per corner rear, and 70kg per corner front.
  3. I increased by 20% all the positive values (and left the negatives alone), and the post bump jiggles are 50% better, and the floatiness is reduced to tolerable levels, but another 5% at least is called for imo.
Thanks again for providing the seed info, the stock floaty / boaty ride is someone's brainfart / proxy for luxury, like they've never driven a German vehicle, or something.
Any updates? I’ve been playing with the tables for months and haven’t found the perfect settings.
 

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You do realize you used the word perfect? ?

That's the whole dang problem.
You'll be editing Asbuilt values forever.
 

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You do realize you used the word perfect? ?

That's the whole dang problem.
You'll be editing Asbuilt values forever.
100%. What I think is good one day isn’t the next. I’ve probably adjusted 50+ times.
 

Snakebitten

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100%. What I think is good one day isn’t the next. I’ve probably adjusted 50+ times.
Then you are the perfect candidate to go play with that "Wheel Rate" value for us and let us know if it does what it implies?

Instead of us just fooling the algorithm with fake weight, that implies actually editing the spring rate up front?
Like telling the pcm you changed the front coil springs and it should adjust the damping curve to compensate?

I've been lazy.
You can't leave it alone. ?
 

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I picked up a '24 Platinum and I'm not in love with the ride I'm getting with the CCD shocks so I'm thinking about trying out the 20% increase in Forscan. Has anyone made any new progress recently on tweaking the algorithm?
 

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I do think there's a fella who was messing with the "wheel rate" value, as well. If I wasn't so lazy, AND fairly content with the ride, I would have ventured further down the rabbit hole.

Note that I have the ensemble of
1. 20% increase in weight values
2. RAS set very slightly, but enough to increase the Leaf spring rate, or increased damping of the Leaf spring, depending on how you choose to look at it.
3. And a rear antisway bar.
4. Add to that Michelin tires, because they do in fact ride well.

Give it a go. And let us know how you feel about the difference.
 

isthatahemi

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I picked up a '24 Platinum and I'm not in love with the ride I'm getting with the CCD shocks so I'm thinking about trying out the 20% increase in Forscan. Has anyone made any new progress recently on tweaking the algorithm?
I do think there's a fella who was messing with the "wheel rate" value, as well. If I wasn't so lazy, AND fairly content with the ride, I would have ventured further down the rabbit hole.

Note that I have the ensemble of
1. 20% increase in weight values
2. RAS set very slightly, but enough to increase the Leaf spring rate, or increased damping of the Leaf spring, depending on how you choose to look at it.
3. And a rear antisway bar.
4. Add to that Michelin tires, because they do in fact ride well.

Give it a go. And let us know how you feel about the difference.
Mine jiggles over bumps, all the time, makes the chassis feel like a wet noodle, I have 22’s with 305 Toyo C’ rated at 35 psi, seems like a lack of rebound wheel control.

Wonder if ford zapped my changes…
 

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Is there a way to see what the values are in Sport mode? I want normal mode to be like 85% of sport mode firmness.
 

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Is there a way to see what the values are in Sport mode? I want normal mode to be like 85% of sport mode firmness.
We can't see the algorithm that Ford has baked into the modes. So all we can do is "fool" the algorithm to use different values for the overall calculation, which as far as I can tell reduces down to nothing more than micro-voltage applied by the PCM to the damping valve solenoid.

The theory is that if our efforts does indeed increase the damping of the CCD shock, then it does so for every drive mode. Or put another way, if Sport mode is 10% more damping than Normal mode, and we increase the damping by 5% with our VDM editing, then the damping is increased by 5% in every mode. Sport is stiffer than it was oem, but still the same 10% stiffer than Normal mode.

I'm pulling the % right out of the air. I have no clue what the actual % is.

Again, if anyone wants to experience what the maximum damping possible feels like, just Unplug one of dampers. It really helps to drive around long enough with it at max damping to get an idea of what the baselines you are working with actually are.
Think of it as having analog adjustable shocks and you started by setting them to max damping. Then backed off until you were happy. :)
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