Why I Change My Own Oil

[Snakebitten]

I agree that the complexity is necessary to achieve the fuel economy required today. In my hot-rodding days, I dreamed of a 5.0 V8 that could produce 400 HP on regular gas.
I would disagree on your thoughts that solid state computers are trouble free. The main problem is the hundreds of sensors, solenoids, modules, and actuators that those computers are connected to. As someone that has been stranded, dead in the water, because a crankshaft position sensor failed. They either work or they don't, and that engine isn't going to start until you replace that sensor and there are no work arounds.
I had to scrap an S430 earlier this year because the solid-state instrument cluster just quit. I didn't worry about losing the speedometer, but the fuel gauge and odometer were part of the cluster. They stopped producing the cluster a decade ago and you can't go to a junk yard and get another one because the main computer checks the odometer reading and compares it to the last reading and will shut everything down if it is more than a couple of percent off. That is to prevent someone from changing the instrument cluster to 'roll back the mileage'. The body and drivetrain were in great shape, but it just made since to scrap it.
The problem is that there are hundreds of parts that have to work with the computers that require compatible firmware and revisions to work properly. The manufacturers don't continue to make those parts for very long after the car is built. I know that because I have several very nice cars that are over 20 years old and parts can be very hard to find, especially some electrical parts. I have passed on several cars that were less than ten years old with less than 50K miles on them because many of the electrical parts are no longer available. A little closer to home is that I have read on this forum that some of the current high-end models of the F-150 have as many as four electrical modules in the rear taillights and a replacement can run over $3,000.

That is one of the reasons that I want a basic truck with few bells and whistles. Ford is one of the few sources for a basic truck. I don't want a back seat, I don't want carpet, I don't need two zones of A/C, I don't want a heated steering wheel, or electric seats, and I don't want turbo chargers. I would even take a delete for roll up windows if they made those. None of the dealers seem to want to stock such vehicles unless I want it white. I had a 2023 on order, but when the 2024 was announced, the price dropped over $2,000. It didn't sound that way on the surface, but when you configure one with a 5.0, locking rear differential, 4X4, and the safety features, they are all standard on the 2024. The result is a $2,000 price drop over the same 2023. So, I cancelled the 2023 and ordered a 2024.

Basically, I am just a grouchy old man that has passed the baton on to the younger generation. God help us.

Awesome post!

So many valid concerns with the modern vehicle design conundrum.

But even your simple car from the past eventually backed you into the same corner, just perhaps slower than your new F150 will?

The good news for someone my age is that this is exactly the time in my life I can splurge! I don't have enough time left to get 20 years out of a vehicle. So I'm taking risks I never might have taken before. ?

It's all about the warranty now!

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[JExpedition07]

Ford wanted to reduce the # of variations to streamline production for 2024 and generally went with what sold well. The 5.0/3.73 was the #1 powertrain pick for regular cab orders from my understanding, so that’s all they are now offering. Most of those trucks seem to be hot rodded. The take rate of the Tremor with the 5.0 V8/3.73 was also very high, so the Tremor has retained the 5.0 as the standard powerplant with that gearset after the 2023 “testing waters” year.

Same reason the Platinum is only now offered with the 3.5 EcoBoost, 90% of Plat buyers bought the 3.5, so that’s all that is now on offer.

 

[RobertD]

I am in the over 60 club and have been changing oil since I was 10 working at the gas station. I find that I can change the oil faster than the drive time to the dealer. That would also put an extra 60 miles on the odometer for the round trip. Also there is no wait time when I change my own oil. I have always found that a lift certainly makes it easier to change the oil. So I bought a used 4 post for my barn. So easy to drive on and hit the lift button.

 

[Severdog]

I am in the over 60 club and..... I have always found that a lift certainly makes it easier to change the oil. So I bought a used 4 post for my barn. So easy to drive on and hit the lift button.

Same here...and count me in the jealousy club with your lift. This is the route I'd like to go some day.

 

[Calson]

The gears have nothing to do with payload capacity but rather towing capacity for the trucks. Lower gears equals greater towing capacity.

I do not have a barn and the cost of a barn and of a power lift would cover the oil changes for the life of the truck. If someone enjoys working on their truck and it is a kind of hobby then go for it. I have rebuilt engines and transmissions and drive axles and done so working on my back on gravel and pavement and out in the weather. When I could afford to pay a mechanic with a lift to do the work I did not hesitate to do so. I make sure the mechanic knows what they are doing (most do not) and that the best possible lubricants are used (and not what the dealer happens to use).

 

[Dale B]

A lot of those evils arise from two sources:
1) Deliberate specificity to ensure vendor lock in and ultimatley replacement and
2) Good old fashioned crummy engineering.

The solution to that is smaller companies that cannot afford to screw us. I'm very strongly considering buying an Aptera because one of their core goals is that the owner can repair the vehicle. Every part has a bar code on it that the user can scan and order a replacement for. The Big 3 are (probably?) smart enough to figure out how to achieve that, but they don't want to so that we have to buy new cars from them and we refuse to force their hand. Most of these ills trace back to us, the consumers. If we don't demand better, the companies will give us as little as we're willing to tolerate.

I don't fault the manufacturers for discontinuing the manufacture of parts or not providing continued support. Technology marches on and us consumers keep demanding newer products with greater amounts of complexity. These days even things like cell phones have new and better models every year. I just replaced my iPhone 7 because after seven years Apple was going to discontinue support and it had become obsolete. The product lifecycles have become shorter and shorter.

 

[Dale B]

Could not do that on my 2016 2.7L motor, dipstick tube did not route to oil pan. Not sure if the 3.5L ecobeast is different but I would appreciate some education on the topic for this motor!

My plan is to try to pump the oil out through the dipstick tube on the first oil change on my 5.0 V8 and then remove the drain plug to see how much oil remains in the pan. I built a small rig that has a small 12v oil pump that sits on top of a five-gallon bucket. It can empty an eight-quart oil pan in less time than I can change a filter. I think that I have a total of less than $25 invested in the rig. I have been using it for years to change the oil in my other vehicles. They were designed to have the oil changed in this manner and the suction tube removes more oil than the drain plug,

 

[Dale B]

Awesome post!

So many valid concerns with the modern vehicle design conundrum.

But even your simple car from the past eventually backed you into the same corner, just perhaps slower than your new F150 will?

The good news for someone my age is that this is exactly the time in my life I can splurge! I don't have enough time left to get 20 years out of a vehicle. So I'm taking risks I never might have taken before. ?

It's all about the warranty now!

Cheers for us old guys!

 

[Old Hat]

Drain plugs are at the lowest point of the pan. I don't see how a suction hose can evacuate as much as that. Or more! It seems to me the hose will suck air before the pan is empty because it will always hit the bottom of the pan on an angle. Yes, please post your test results @Dale B

 

[gagliano7]

I ahave always changed my own oil this way i know it was done correctly. My buddy and his girlfriend back in the day both went to one of those quick changes on different days. Both a week after having there oil changed their motors seized.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Drain plugs are at the lowest point of the pan. I don't see how a suction hose can evacuate as much as that. Or more! It seems to me the hose will suck air before the pan is empty because it will always hit the bottom of the pan on an angle. Yes, please post your test results @Dale B

If you think about it... The bottom of the pan is nearly level and if you park on a level surface the suction can get nearly all oil. The drain plug is usually in the side of the pan, though with a sight dimple, in my observation. I have a liquid evacuator and plan on trying it out for engine oil next time.

 

[Dale B]

Drain plugs are at the lowest point of the pan. I don't see how a suction hose can evacuate as much as that. Or more! It seems to me the hose will suck air before the pan is empty because it will always hit the bottom of the pan on an angle. Yes, please post your test results @Dale B

I have changed enough oil over the last sixty years to have seen hundreds of oil pan designs and I can tell you that not all were designed to get the last drop of oil out of the drain plug hole. Most have threads on the inside that are thicker than the wall of the pan. The last bit of oil will not drain up and over those threads. The attitude of the vehicle makes a difference as to how much oil will exit the pan. If you use ramps when you drain the oil it may affect how much oil will drain from the pan. The oil suction tube is quite small to fit down the dip stick tube and usually enters the pan almost vertically. I usually push it down until it bottoms out and then pull it back about a quarter inch. I change the filter and usually start hearing a gurgling sound telling me that it has suctioned all the oil that it can reach and then I push it in until it bottoms out in the pan, and it proceeds to empty the balance of the oil.

I was skeptical at first years ago, and pulled the drain plug to check and never got more than a drop or two of oil from the drain plug hole. You and I both know that few technicians are patient enough to wait for the last drop of oil to exit the pan before they reinsert the drain plug.

My 2024 F-150 5.0 is on order and there is no telling when I will get it. I will do the first oil change at 1500 miles and report back to the group.

 

[Gros Ventre]

My plan is to try to pump the oil out through the dipstick tube on the first oil change on my 5.0 V8 and then remove the drain plug to see how much oil remains in the pan. I built a small rig that has a small 12v oil pump that sits on top of a five-gallon bucket. It can empty an eight-quart oil pan in less time than I can change a filter. I think that I have a total of less than $25 invested in the rig. I have been using it for years to change the oil in my other vehicles. They were designed to have the oil changed in this manner and the suction tube removes more oil than the drain plug,

Just tried this, using a fluid extractor. Could only pull out 2 qts with it. Still had to go under and pull the sump plug... Feels like there is a baffle plate in the oil pan preventing a full depth insertion of the tube. Oh well...!! I have a Powerboost 3.5L Twin Turbo, Hybrid engine.

 

[Snakebitten]

Did you just do an oil change? ?

 

[Gros Ventre]

Did you just do an oil change? ?

Yes.

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