Powerboost CEL P237C/Exhaust Heat Exchanger Leak Megathread

[Snakebitten]

By the way, they were shipped Next Day. Saturday delivery.

It will be interesting to see lordofping's dealerships response to customer supplied parts.

We've seen some dealerships bowup and intentionally impede any progress with remarkable stubbornness. While others seem to genuinely care about getting the truck fixed and the customer taken care of.

I really hope his is the latter.

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[lordofping]

I have received the parts, and I am eternally grateful.

Based on the feedback here, I decided to not inform the dealer that I got the parts. I got the truck back after saying I needed it, and told them I'd keep a close eye on coolant levels.

I did try to take some pictures of the event.

Thing 1

Thing 2

Here you can see the two T25 torx screws that need to be removed. I did require a 90 degree attachment, as my screwdrivers were too long to fit in the space.

Here you can see after removal, the degree of twist travel

Getting this far was easy enough, but after seemed to be a tad difficult for me. It was very hard to pull them out, and I ended up using the widest flathead screwdriver I had to slowly pry it up enough for my fingers to do the rest. Putting the new parts back in was also difficult, but took far less effort to push in than to pull out. I did get coolant all over myself, but it did seem that if you point the hoses upward, after the initial spill nothing more came out. Overall took me 1 hour (not including time spent hunting for the right tools), and I am by no means an experienced mechanic, in fact quite the opposite.

 

[Snakebitten]

Great to hear! (good pictures too)
And good job taking matters into your own hands.

Now we just need confirmation that the tubes really are all that's needed, just like Ford says.

 

[Kodiak]

I have received the parts, and I am eternally grateful.

Based on the feedback here, I decided to not inform the dealer that I got the parts. I got the truck back after saying I needed it, and told them I'd keep a close eye on coolant levels.

I did try to take some pictures of the event.

Thing 1

Thing 2

Here you can see the two T25 torx screws that need to be removed. I did require a 90 degree attachment, as my screwdrivers were too long to fit in the space.

Here you can see after removal, the degree of twist travel

Getting this far was easy enough, but after seemed to be a tad difficult for me. It was very hard to pull them out, and I ended up using the widest flathead screwdriver I had to slowly pry it up enough for my fingers to do the rest. Putting the new parts back in was also difficult, but took far less effort to push in than to pull out. I did get coolant all over myself, but it did seem that if you point the hoses upward, after the initial spill nothing more came out. Overall took me 1 hour (not including time spent hunting for the right tools), and I am by no means an experienced mechanic, in fact quite the opposite.

Great job! Thanks for the outstanding pictures.

Let us know how this works out for you. If this ends up solving the majority of the issues, this will be an extremely valuable piece of knowledge for us to have. A relatively cheap fix to boot.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

For all those who have replaced the fittings at home, how much coolant loss was there? Is it something a small bucket will be sufficient for, or would it be better to use a large drain pan?

 

[lordofping]

Great job! Thanks for the outstanding pictures.

Let us know how this works out for you. If this ends up solving the majority of the issues, this will be an extremely valuable piece of knowledge for us to have. A relatively cheap fix to boot.

The class 3 leak has definitely been resolved, which I would say is a majority of the issue. I'm waiting for the parts to dry (from the coolant I spilled) before declaring that there is also no class 1 leak after the repair.

For all those who have replaced the fittings at home, how much coolant loss was there? Is it something a small bucket will be sufficient for, or would it be better to use a large drain pan?

I just had a drop cloth to absorb the coolant. I do not believe that large drain pans are necessary.

 

[EcoOrBoost]

Yes - I dealt with the same. My best guess is that the engine isn’t overheating (as evidenced by your gauge being normal), but that is a generic message for a temperature Delta from the inlet to exit of the heat exchanger being outside of the correct range. If the valve is stuck open, I could easily see the turbos dumping their heat into the exhaust which then gets pushed into the coolant due to the stuck valve, causing the exit temp to be too high and the computer limits power to reduce heat

The CEL on my 2022 pb came on March 16. I was taking it to the dealer a few days later to have the active air dam replaced (a story for another time) and was told the CEL was likely related and they had cleared it as part of the repair. I wasn’t more than 1/2 mile from the dealer when it came back on. Upon my second visit they bothered to actually read the code and determined it’s this heat exchanger valve. No leaks, no symptoms, just waiting for the part. Fast forward to today, driving on the freeway when I get the massive loss of power and the engine heat warning exactly like @21pb — engine temp was fine but I could barely maintain freeway speed. I arrived at my destination a few miles later and parked for several hours before driving home. I noticed I’m getting no boost at all since earlier today, the truck seems sluggish. Contacted the dealer, who has no ETA on the part but reordered it as an “emergency/expedited” order to see if that helps.

Will they be replacing the entire heat exchanger for this?

 

[Oxford_Powerboost]

The CEL on my 2022 pb came on March 16. I was taking it to the dealer a few days later to have the active air dam replaced (a story for another time) and was told the CEL was likely related and they had cleared it as part of the repair. I wasn’t more than 1/2 mile from the dealer when it came back on. Upon my second visit they bothered to actually read the code and determined it’s this heat exchanger valve. No leaks, no symptoms, just waiting for the part. Fast forward to today, driving on the freeway when I get the massive loss of power and the engine heat warning exactly like @21pb — engine temp was fine but I could barely maintain freeway speed. I arrived at my destination a few miles later and parked for several hours before driving home. I noticed I’m getting no boost at all since earlier today, the truck seems sluggish. Contacted the dealer, who has no ETA on the part but reordered it as an “emergency/expedited” order to see if that helps.

Will they be replacing the entire heat exchanger for this?

My understanding is that yes they are still replacing the entire assembly for the CEL people. I had the same symptoms - boost extremely limited until it cools.

 

[Snakebitten]

Unlike the leaky plastic coolant tubes, that valve doesn't seem to be available independently from the whole assembly.

Which seems like such a waste.

The picture that was posted earlier of that electric valve certainly suggests it would be possible to change it out.

 

[iceman77]

My ultimate goal is a full delete, with as little whining by the PCM as possible.
PB Heat Exchanger Delete Thread
After some good advice, I realized that all of the sensors are analog. Further, it is not clear where or if there is an independent valve position sensor or if the system simply monitors voltage changes across the valve control circuit for changes. All of this means that I might be able to get away with a simple resistor across the control wires instead of the whole fitting; I need to measure that resistance, and I'd rather do it on a dead part than on the working one attached to my truck. If that works and keeps the DTC VALVE codes at bay, it will still send DTCs for a lack of expected temperature change in the T1 and T2 coolant temperature sensors. I don't have a good solution other than get it inspected in the summer and live with the CEL otherwise.

I've been looking into exhaust heat exchanger delete myself last year when my then brand-new truck would leak coolant not even 600 miles into ownership and replacement part backordered with no ETA off back order. The biggest challenge I faced was to get the PCM happy without the bypass valve solenoid, that would be removed with the heat exchanger assembly. I gave up on this, since my truck got eventually fixed with part being available, after waiting like 2 months.

If you are still interested in trying to fool the PCM that the valve is still there, I might have a solution for you to try: The valve solenoid in the heat exchanger is produced by a German company called SBS-Feintechnik, that (apart from Ford) is used in BMW and Audi cars and motorcycles. The "motorcycle" here is the key! Modern motorcycles have an exhaust valve for noise management installed, and BMW specifically uses the very same solenoid assembly as your Ford truck! How do I know that? I just removed it from mine, as I like my bike loud! Obviously, this would produce numerous fault codes in the DME (PCM equivalent in BMW) just like in your Ford truck. There is a solution to that, and it's called a "servo-buddy", that simulates the operation of the SBS exhaust valve solenoid. It's only $69 and you can get it here. I can't guarantee it will work for the Ford truck, but I would assume so, as the valve is exactly the same model in my motorcycle than the one that is installed on my truck's heat exchanger. Give it a try!

 

[Baddad34]

Well…after lurking for awhile and not posting, I just got the CEL valve issue diagnosed on my ‘22 XLT PB. I was told the part (NL3Z-5A212-B) is on national backorder. One dealer said all they’re being told is 30 day minimum and another said it looks like they expect something to happen around May 10th with parts. She wasn’t sure what was going on with the date but noted that it happens sometimes when they introduce new versions of certain parts. No leak, so my truck is drivable which is good, except I can’t tow without it going into power reduction mode because of the valve in the heat exchanger. The entire reason I bought the PB is for towing for work and towing our travel trailer and utilizing the pro power. We have a trip planned in 3 weeks and then at least one each month after that. We didn’t plan any other vacations this year other than long weekend camping trips to take the kids on different adventures. I went ahead and set up a case number with ford customer care, but that was zero help other that “part escalation”. I’m blown away that this has been going on as long as it has…my family has never driven any trucks other than fords for our construction business and personal vehicles…probably over 30 vehicles over the years…looks like that streak may be ending.

 

[Snakebitten]

Except the competition doesn't have an alternative to the Powerboost ProPower.

Which is a bit surprising considering the splash it has made over 3 years of model production?

The exhaust heat exchanger is fixable. And it appears to be extremely rare for repeat issue.

I don't think I can give up on the Powerboost even if I'm one of the unfortunate to experience the ridiculous delay in what otherwise would be a 1 hour repair.

 

[iceman77]

The exhaust valve solenoid that is failing here for many of us does not control the flow of the coolant, it controls the butterfly valve in the exhaust, that when closed, redirects the hot exhaust gases into the heat exchanger. This valve is open by default. So, technically, you should be able to disconnect this valve and install the servo-buddy to fool the PCM the valve is still operational (see post above). There is no harm for having the valve open all the time, as its sole purpose (of this ill-fated heat exchanger) is to get the engine coolant to operating temperature faster, especially in very cold environment

 

[Oxford_Powerboost]

The exhaust valve solenoid that is failing here for many of us does not control the flow of the coolant, it controls the butterfly valve in the exhaust, that when closed, redirects the hot exhaust gases into the heat exchanger. This valve is open by default. So, technically, you should be able to disconnect this valve and install the servo-buddy to fool the PCM the valve is still operational (see post above). There is no harm for being the valve open as its sole purpose (of this I’ll fated heat exchanger) is to get the engine coolant more up to operating temperature, especially in very cold environment

I think, if I’m understanding correctly, that would cause the issue us with the CEL code are seeing where the computer derates the power for overheating.
The valve is there to bypass the heat exchanger once the engine is warm to avoid putting excess heat into the coolant

 

[iceman77]

When the butterfly valve is closed position the exhaust gases do not pass directly to the outlet but are redirected to the heat exchanger radiator. The valve is open by default and is in closed position only when idling and warming up the engine. Once engine up to operating temp the valve is wide open and exhaust gases are passed through the outlet pipe. Should the solenoid valve fail and and stuck in closed position, that would be an issue as the flow of exhaust glasses would be severely restricted causing performance issues and could cause damage to cat converter as well as over heating. Like I said above, the valve is open by default and you can hear it based on the sound coming out of the exhaust pipe. With valve open, you sound is more profound while with valve closed it is significantly muffled

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