Agreed. Plus, they really don't have the time for additional forensics. The backlog of Repair Orders is staggering. It's a long shot, but I'll ask the Service Dept. today if they still have my old part. If so, maybe they'll give it to me and then I could send to you.
Well that's incredibly flattering regardless of whether they gave it to you or not. I'm humbled.
I have a 2022 Powerboost with 1,200-miles and it is at the Dealer with exactly the same problem. He said they had sold seven 2022 Powerboost trucks and two were in the shop with the same problem and both awaiting parts. I first got the Propower failure note then heard the fans, checked the gauges, and noticed the overheat. My Dealer is being very nice to me and has provided a new Escape to drive until my truck is repaired.
Well, I asked and you were right. They ship them back to Ford so they can figure out what went wrong. ?
Honestly idk what part number it is but my dealer parts guy is the one that gave me this info.
What is your bed length. The 5.5 using the part number ML3Z5A212W -EXTENSION - EXHAUST PIPE and it seems to have the largest backlog according to another user.
I have a 6.5 foot bed 4 door. 157” super crew
It does not seem to leak very fast as I did not see coolant on the garage floor not did I smell it. I believe you could just top off the coolant reservoir until you got home.
It's doable. Bypassing the heat exchanger completely. But there's a chance that the plastic portion of the heat exchanger might cook without coolant in it. Plastic is turning out to be an expensive co$t savings on this apparatus.
I tried to bypass it by coupling the inlet and outlet hoses together. All you need is a 3/4” inch aluminum pipe cut to 4.5”
Do you think you could just do as you describe and have a muffler shop build you the midpipe replacement, then connect the hose loop as you showed, as well as disassemble the plastic valve from the discarded heat exchanger and leave it plugged in and nestled away?I tried to bypass it by coupling the inlet and outlet hoses together. All you need is a 3/4” inch aluminum pipe cut to 4.5”
It effectively stopped the leak, and the truck did not complain about it, ICE as well as EV ran like clockwork, no overheat, no code from PCM neither!
However, bypassing the heat exchanger creates a new issue. The plastic part of the heat exchanger (which gets really hot from exhaust gases) will start to melt, since no coolant is running through it once bypassed. I had to restore the connections to prevent it to melt and cause further damage.
A real workaround would be to get your muffler inlet pipe into a reputable muffler shop, cut the damn heat exchanger out and couple the coolant hoses together. This would effectively eliminate the whole heat exchanger out of the ICE cooling loop. The only outstanding task would be to deal with the PCM that would throw a DTC along with CEL once it loses connection with the heat exchanger valve.
Yes, this option is on the table! I don’t like the idea of the actual valve “hanging” under the truck, I would rather try to figure out the resistance on the connector and build a “dummy” that connects to the connector fooling the PCM that the valve is still there, or reprogram the PCM to disregard the HE valve input
But you asked.
Much appreciated.
Not only the supply chain war, but the fact that apparently rust never sleeps, even on a brand new truck. 40 days at the dealer waiting for the infamous -V version, and I finally get it home and notice this. Keep in mind the Boise winter was very mild this year. No snow or much rain the last 40 days. Mild overnight temps too.
