Replacing the 12v battery

[RGrove]

Any special procedure to replacing the H7 12v battery on a 2022 PB?
I can't seem to find a PB BMS reset process, so does the general F150 procedure apply?

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[Eskram]

Any special procedure to replacing the H7 12v battery on a 2022 PB?

I haven't replaced mine (yet), but I don't believe there is anything special about it - just yank and replace.

I can't seem to find a PB BMS reset process, so does the general F150 procedure apply?

I can confirm the procedure @astro_fusion fusion outlines here works on a PB.

I did it for kicks, and I think it actually did something - I was never able to get above a 72-73% SOC, even after an overnight charge. I did just did that trick a few moments ago, and now it shows 90% (which is where I set the value at in forscan). When I parked it earlier today, it was at 72. ?‍

 

[Calson]

Good idea to attach a 12-volt power source to the OBD-II connector under the dash so the computer setting will not be lost. I paid $15 for a Clore Automotive Sooar ESA 30 OBD II Memory Saver connector that plugs into the lighter port on a jump start device. More secure than using mini clips attached to the battery cable leads while removing the battery.

Surprising that in 2024 the engineers at Ford are clueless about static memory and capacitors. I was manufacturing small industrial computer data modules in 1982 that would retain data for more than a year without external power. If Ford cannot even manage this then I would not be inclined to buy one of their EVs.

 

[Buyer2021]

Surprising that in 2024 the engineers at Ford are clueless about static memory and capacitors. I was manufacturing small industrial computer data modules in 1982 that would retain data for more than a year without external power. If Ford cannot even manage this then I would not be inclined to buy one of their EVs.

Your F150 employs both volatile and non-volatile memory in its many different modules. The battery age-state is one example of data which is retained even when the battery is disconnected indefinitely, but which can be reset when appropriate.

I have personally done a leisurely swap of my starting battery, absent any tool to provide alternate 12VDC, without losing any of my infotainment and similar configurations.

In some cases it's useful to have memory 'clear' upon loss of power as an easy reset mechanism.

You may not agree with which data Ford elects to retain absent battery power for a given duration, but they certainly understand how to accomplish data retention in the absence of a battery.

 

[RGrove]

I bought an H8 because it looked like I could wedge it in purely by dimensions, and with a little creative rearrangement, but it was a no-go without cutting brackets. So I just returned it and got a Walmart H7 platinum.
I'm about to start a 3 hour drive, and will execute the swap when I get there. I'm typing this while idling in a parking lot, and the engine just started with a horrific clicking/grinding that sounds like a dead 12v...so I'm either going to solve a problem, or kic

It seems obvious now that the factory 12v is spec'd under-capacity, so it would be great to be able to stuff something larger in. I'd even say maybe this platform deserves parallel batteries (twin under the hood, not a big fat one and a tiny support one in the cab).

Also...never be afraid to question engineers and designers. If they were always right, space shuttles would never blow up, the Pinto would still be on the road, and we'd never have recalls.

 

[bdginmo]

I'm new to the F-150 so forgive me if these questions have been discussed ad-nauseum already. I have the 3.5L Powerboost. Are you guys replacing the 12v battery under the rear passenger seat when you do the one under the hood as well? When you disconnect the battery under the hood is the one under the rear passenger seat supplying an alternate 12v voltage to the system so that settings are not lost?

 

[Big Dog Daddy]

Any special procedure to replacing the H7 12v battery on a 2022 PB?
I can't seem to find a PB BMS reset process, so does the general F150 procedure apply?

BMS reset
In truck door closed
Key on engine off.
Look for the red battery light on the instrument cluster.
Flash high beams 5 times
Tap brake pedal 3 times
Battery light will flash and go solid.
Key off
Reset complete

You will not need a 12v power source to retain memory while changing the battery. Do not do this it could leave the electronics in an under powered condition and damage them.

 

[Big Dog Daddy]

I'm new to the F-150 so forgive me if these questions have been discussed ad-nauseum already. I have the 3.5L Powerboost. Are you guys replacing the 12v battery under the rear passenger seat when you do the one under the hood as well? When you disconnect the battery under the hood is the one under the rear passenger seat supplying an alternate 12v voltage to the system so that settings are not lost?

Welcome to the forum!
There talking about replacing the 12v battery under the hood. This isn't a Powerboost only problem. Many many 21 and newer 150's are experiencing battery problems, the factory battery is undersized, and many of these trucks sat on lots at the factory before shipping causing damage to the battery from day one after delivery.

 

[Big Dog Daddy]

I bought an H8 because it looked like I could wedge it in purely by dimensions, and with a little creative rearrangement, but it was a no-go without cutting brackets. So I just returned it and got a Walmart H7 platinum.
I'm about to start a 3 hour drive, and will execute the swap when I get there. I'm typing this while idling in a parking lot, and the engine just started with a horrific clicking/grinding that sounds like a dead 12v...so I'm either going to solve a problem, or kic

It seems obvious now that the factory 12v is spec'd under-capacity, so it would be great to be able to stuff something larger in. I'd even say maybe this platform deserves parallel batteries (twin under the hood, not a big fat one and a tiny support one in the cab).

Also...never be afraid to question engineers and designers. If they were always right, space shuttles would never blow up, the Pinto would still be on the road, and we'd never have recalls.

An H8 will not fit your Powerboost, due to the modules located in the battery box. An H7 is the largest recommended battery for the PB trucks
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/battery-reserve-capacity-and-otas.11548/

 

[RGrove]

An H8 will not fit your Powerboost, due to the modules located in the battery box. An H7 is the largest recommended battery for the PB trucks
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/battery-reserve-capacity-and-otas.11548/

Yeah, found out the hard way... The tray side-mounted electronics (overcurrent protection?) come out easily enough, but don't go back in with an H8 seated... It would work with just millimeters more, or a stable way to reposition that module.

 

[Big Dog Daddy]

Yeah, found out the hard way... The tray side-mounted electronics (overcurrent protection?) come out easily enough, but don't go back in with an H8 seated... It would work with just millimeters more, or a stable way to reposition that module.

The Powerboost will not gain from the H8 as much as the ice truck's do. A PB is capable of keeping the battery up to full charge at all times if all of the current software updates have been applied.

 

[Snakebitten]

Good idea to attach a 12-volt power source to the OBD-II connector under the dash so the computer setting will not be lost. I paid $15 for a Clore Automotive Sooar ESA 30 OBD II Memory Saver connector that plugs into the lighter port on a jump start device. More secure than using mini clips attached to the battery cable leads while removing the battery.

Surprising that in 2024 the engineers at Ford are clueless about static memory and capacitors. I was manufacturing small industrial computer data modules in 1982 that would retain data for more than a year without external power. If Ford cannot even manage this then I would not be inclined to buy one of their EVs.

Why do you think Engineers at Ford are clueless about static memory and capacitors?

With all due respect I have a hard time believing you would be inclined to buy a Ford EV regardless. Not a chance. ?

 

[Snakebitten]

Yeah, found out the hard way... The tray side-mounted electronics (overcurrent protection?) come out easily enough, but don't go back in with an H8 seated... It would work with just millimeters more, or a stable way to reposition that module.

That device taking up some of the floorspace of the battery tray is the 12V isolator that isolates the main AGM under the hood, the bendix starter, and the BISG from the rest of the 12V buss on the Powerboost during a "cranking event", as Ford describes it.

Or put another way, when a cranking event is commanded by the PCM, a signal is sent to the isolator via the LIN. The isolator changes to an open circuit, thus disconnecting the underhood battery and both 12V starters from the sensitive electronics in the truck. During that brief moment, the auxiliary battery under the seat provides 12V to the low voltage electronics.

 

[RGrove]

The Powerboost will not gain from the H8 as much as the ice truck's do. A PB is capable of keeping the battery up to full charge at all times if all of the current software updates have been applied.

I'm hoping for better rundown protection, rather than instantaneous power delivery, in the hope that it will be gentler on the battery over long term. So I'm really chasing higher amp-hours over CCA. The past two weeks, I've been deferring long distance jobs for work because I got it back from the dealer a few weeks ago, drove it on (2) 300 mile trips immediately, and now have constant random faults (something dramatic about the parking brake came up on 1st boot today, but disappeared before I could read it). So the past 2 weeks, the truck has had the very unusual duty of sitting unused for 2 days of the week while I work from home, and thus on each start, I get the low 12v fault, and all kinds of gremlins I'm sure are related to poor voltage stability.

So I do understand that there won't be any sort of performance change with higher 12v capacity, but there could be better overall system stability with it having deeper reserve.
If the design-spec'd H7 is really adequate, then I can't belive Ford's branded battery is so bad that it fails in service so quickly. My son and I bust chops constantly about Ford/Chevy, but I do expect a degree of quality in every component they put their name on. Same thing with Harley vs metric bikes...I have and love both, but still rag on Harleys while being happy with the general build quality of mine. My slogan for my Harley is that it leaks from places it doesn't even have fluids...

But...I've also suspected for a long time that my truck languished on a lot somewhere and was rebadged as a 2022 just before I got it. Sun-faded plastic parts, rusted differential housing, etc. It definitely didn't come off a line and straight to me. So it could have had a battery that was trashed from that, but still passes on technical testing.

 

[Snakebitten]

If your Powerboost gets the latest Battery Management update, your Powerboost is going to treat your new/next AGM battery a lot nicer than it has in the past.

I don't know how much that will help when a truck sits several days in a row, except that it will at least start that daily decline from a higher SOC?

I don't get very worked up about putting a vehicle on a maintainer if/when it's going to sit unused for a while. I've been doing that for many years with motorcycles, toy cars, RVs......

And none of those machines have 42 computer modules and an ongoing relationship with the mothership in the cloud.

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