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RAS w/scales, smart hitch

Snakebitten

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and you got a BIG cool freaking hangar to work in, mine is getting full . time to blow out a wall.
great write up on the ras.

20220104_174904.jpg
That big gorgeous Class A does kind of hog some floorspace. :)
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Snakebitten

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If I ever get my truck, I was thinking about these to help the ride on an empty bed. Wasn't sure if it would affect accuracy on the smart scales/hitch though.
I have just enough pre-load on them to get the empty ride I was looking for with the CCD. Fortunately they lifted the rear by no more than 1/4 inch, so no need to recalibrate the VDM module.

I suspect that the height sensors will be off a little per-pound if the truck lowers less per pound, but honestly after playing with the scales before installing the RAS they aren't that kind of precision anyway.

However, if you were to crank in enough pre-load to lift the truck substantially, and/or alter the leaf-spring droop rate substantially, then the algorithm for the scales would be affected more. They would probably lie in your favor.

I had considered that and thought I might do an experiment someday to develop some kind of formula to apply. Let's say without RAS preload I throw a known quantity of weight in the bed. (Which I kind of want to do anyways to verify the factory accuracy) Say 500lbs of feed bags?
Then return the RAS to the preload that I wanted to run at for the circumstances and then note what the scales say afterwards. Theoretically it would show less than real weight by some percentage?

Regardless, as much as I think the scales are a cool feature and I have no regrets having ordered them for the truck, I don't see me using them like they are some kind of calibrated cat scale. :)
But I DO think they are great for weight shifting and weight comparisons.

These 14th gen F150's are a HOOT to mess with. So many new to the platform gizmos.
 

C_Harris

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I have just enough pre-load on them to get the empty ride I was looking for with the CCD. Fortunately they lifted the rear by no more than 1/4 inch, so no need to recalibrate the VDM module.

I suspect that the height sensors will be off a little per-pound if the truck lowers less per pound, but honestly after playing with the scales before installing the RAS they aren't that kind of precision anyway.

However, if you were to crank in enough pre-load to lift the truck substantially, and/or alter the leaf-spring droop rate substantially, then the algorithm for the scales would be affected more. They would probably lie in your favor.

I had considered that and thought I might do an experiment someday to develop some kind of formula to apply. Let's say without RAS preload I throw a known quantity of weight in the bed. (Which I kind of want to do anyways to verify the factory accuracy) Say 500lbs of feed bags?
Then return the RAS to the preload that I wanted to run at for the circumstances and then note what the scales say afterwards. Theoretically it would show less than real weight by some percentage?

Regardless, as much as I think the scales are a cool feature and I have no regrets having ordered them for the truck, I don't see me using them like they are some kind of calibrated cat scale. :)
But I DO think they are great for weight shifting and weight comparisons.

These 14th gen F150's are a HOOT to mess with. So many new to the platform gizmos.
Great info, thanks!
 

jordandev

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I love the RAS. dialed it in more to 2mm and it raised my rear another 1/2 inch since I put another 150 lbs of batteries (4x6V now) on my tongue weight. Drives great. ??‍♂
 

Snakebitten

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I love the RAS. dialed it in more to 2mm and it raised my rear another 1/2 inch since I put another 150 lbs of batteries (4x6V now) on my tongue weight. Drives great. ??‍♂
That's definitely the traditional purpose and preload setting for RAS. I've heard several similar reviews by others. :)
 

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UGADawg96

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Well it's easy for me to spend your money. Lol

I personally think that RAS can apply to more than just towing height and weight distribution support when truck is loaded. However I admit that the marketing and most common purpose is to aid in carrying weight.

But I look at them a little differently than that "narrow" application. I consider what they actually are doing from a physics-based approach. Technically they are doing 2 things in reality :

1. They are literally a coil spring that is acting as a second damper on the leaf spring. It's like adding a second damper/shock to the rear suspension. So although the factory shock might be both unadjustable, AND be notoriously under damped for the empty/loaded rear of the truck, the RAS lets you apply additional and adjustable damping to the leaf spring.

2. Another perspective is that the RAS is actually an adaptable spring-rate mechanism. Or at least the shock absorber will experience it that way. The shock doesn't know RAS is there, but it does experience a leaf spring that suddenly has a different spring rate, depending on what your RAS settings are.

It's probably the suspension-geek in me that finds the RAS such a cool "tool" to dial-in how the rear suspension behaves on the truck. In my opinion, a truck by its very design has a potential wide variation of rear Payload. So a static shock valving (non-adjustable damper) and leaf spring is going to naturally be compromised at one end of the spectrum or the other. And it's obvious Ford caters to the ride of the empty truck on the F150 VS their HD truck platform. For me the RAS is a brilliant way of having my cake and eating it to since I don't have to purchase high-end suspension components to get the adjustability.

Note: my previous F150 had Fox 2.5 with DSC all the way around. A fabulous setup and awesome for towing. But RAS is like 1/5th the price and in some ways more than just an adjustable damper compared to the Fox kit.
I love the RAS. dialed it in more to 2mm and it raised my rear another 1/2 inch since I put another 150 lbs of batteries (4x6V now) on my tongue weight. Drives great. ??‍♂
Ordered :)

Ford F-150 RAS w/scales, smart hitch 1656855644081


Now I need to buy a floor jack and jack stands.....
 

Snakebitten

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It's a very low risk acquisition. :)

If you are someone willing to make adjustments and experiment enough until you become well acquainted with how this "tool" influences your truck, you will need a closed end 13 millimeter, and 2 open end 22 millimeter wrenches kept somewhere in the truck. I have them wrapped in a soft towel so they don't rattle.

I'm not saying I have the settings completely figured out for every possible scenario, but I have played and compared enough to now know what to expect.

I know I sound like a broken record, but I think the apparatus is an amazing clever piece of engineering. Took me a while to get my head around it. And to be completely honest, the first time I ever came across the mention of them I didn't get it.
 

UGADawg96

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It's a very low risk acquisition. :)

If you are someone willing to make adjustments and experiment enough until you become well acquainted with how this "tool" influences your truck, you will need a closed end 13 millimeter, and 2 open end 22 millimeter wrenches kept somewhere in the truck. I have them wrapped in a soft towel so they don't rattle.

I'm not saying I have the settings completely figured out for every possible scenario, but I have played and compared enough to now know what to expect.

I know I sound like a broken record, but I think the apparatus is an amazing clever piece of engineering. Took me a while to get my head around it. And to be completely honest, the first time I ever came across the mention of them I didn't get it.
yeah, hoping I can set it to the 2mm (40%) setting and leave it. If it is too much, I'd back it down to 1m (25%) and hope I don't want to go back to 2mm. Or maybe I should set it between the two to start, haha!

I have a coworker willing to let me borrow his floor jack, so debating spending the $100 for one.
 

Snakebitten

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It's easier to change the settings than you might think. You can do it sitting in a lawn chair sitting next to the truck with the wheel on. Admittedly you get tire grime on your forearms. :)

It is easier to install them with the truck lifted on a jack and the wheel off, but I now know I could do it without jacking up the truck or removing the wheels.

That 2mm setting is probably great for a fully loaded truck, but would probably irritate me when running empty.
 
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UGADawg96

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It's easier to change the settings than you might think. You can do it sitting in a lawn chair sitting next to the truck with the wheel on. Admittedly you get tire grime on your forearms. :)

It is easier to install them with the truck lifted on a jack and the wheel off, but I now know I could do it without jacking up the truck or removing the wheels.

That 2mm setting is probably great for a fully loaded truck, but would probably irritate me when running empty.
ok, I'll try 1mm first since we only tow a few times a year.
 
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Roscopcoletrain

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I have just enough pre-load on them to get the empty ride I was looking for with the CCD. Fortunately they lifted the rear by no more than 1/4 inch, so no need to recalibrate the VDM module.

I suspect that the height sensors will be off a little per-pound if the truck lowers less per pound, but honestly after playing with the scales before installing the RAS they aren't that kind of precision anyway.

However, if you were to crank in enough pre-load to lift the truck substantially, and/or alter the leaf-spring droop rate substantially, then the algorithm for the scales would be affected more. They would probably lie in your favor.

I had considered that and thought I might do an experiment someday to develop some kind of formula to apply. Let's say without RAS preload I throw a known quantity of weight in the bed. (Which I kind of want to do anyways to verify the factory accuracy) Say 500lbs of feed bags?
Then return the RAS to the preload that I wanted to run at for the circumstances and then note what the scales say afterwards. Theoretically it would show less than real weight by some percentage?

Regardless, as much as I think the scales are a cool feature and I have no regrets having ordered them for the truck, I don't see me using them like they are some kind of calibrated cat scale. :)
But I DO think they are great for weight shifting and weight comparisons.

These 14th gen F150's are a HOOT to mess with. So many new to the platform gizmos.
let us know how the weight test goes!
 

UGADawg96

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Roscopcoletrain

Roscopcoletrain

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and they say size doesnt matter ;)
 

UGADawg96

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Did the install today. Started around 9am and finished around 2pm. I ended up having to make both a Walmart run and a Home Depot run for tools. And also to my neighbors house to borrow another tool since I didn't want to run back to Home Depot again.

For reference, I installed the HD kit which uses slightly bigger hardware than the regular kit. I used the second hole per the recommendation from others and the picture on the box. I used the white 25% disc and had it set so there was a little friction when setting it, but it went between the coils no issue. After lowering the truck back on the tires, the white disc goes between the coils with no friction at all and the black 40% disc doesn't fit at all. This raised the back wheel well 1 inch. These measurement were taken when the truck was backed into the garage with the front tires on the edge with a slight lean towards the driveway. I also sprayed some surface shield on the rusty leaf bolts I missed when doing the pumpkin in April. I set the torque at 120 ft/lb, although the spec is 150 ft./lb. I have an appointment Monday at Discount Tire for a rotation and balance. They'll retorque the lugs at that time. Took a quick 5 mile drive to the UPS Store to return some Amazon things and couldn't tell any difference with the RAS installed.

Another point of reference. This truck is a 302a 157" wheelbase Powerboost with Max Tow.

I checked the onboard scales and it said the truck was almost at zero empty. In the past it would say that the truck had 300lbs in it when actually empty. I need to spend more time looking at the scales, but it was raining.

Before
F: 37 7/8
R: 40 7/16

After
F: 38
R: 41 1/2

Tools needed for the HD kit:
Lug nuts: 13/16 deep socket 1/2 drive with 24" breaker bar
Bump stop: 9/16 deep socket (3/8 drive with extension okay)
New bump stop hardware (used short bolt from kit): 15mm deep socket (must be 1/2 drive, 3/8 bottoms out)
Leaf arm bolt: 10mm Allen
Leaf arm nut: 19mm socket or combination or ratcheting wrench
Cap screw: 14mm combination or ratcheting wrench
Big nuts: 15/16 combination wrench
150ft/lb. torque wrench



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