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that$pit

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Was the backup chime the only function you lost with your original install? Any cellphone use issues or any other chime feature?

Im prepping to do this and I think id rather have no chime than an annoying chime lol.
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Bob Violence

Bob Violence

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Was the backup chime the only function you lost with your original install? Any cellphone use issues or any other chime feature?

Im prepping to do this and I think id rather have no chime than an annoying chime lol.
Rear chime was only issue, and I solved it with a resistor.
 

that$pit

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That version looks much cleaner.

Honestly, knowing what I know now, I probably would have just bypassed the no-splice kit, saved the $40, and just tapped into the wires on the existing harness. I really hate cutting into the stock harness, but I also kinda hate the wad of harness that I had to bunch up on the right side of my install. Eliminating the no-splice harness would have definitely cleaned that up a bit.
Just to confirm. The rear speakers are powered by the B&O amp on the back wall for the B&O non-unleashed system? Im seeing conflicting stuff about them being powered by the head unit. Correct me if I'm wrong; B&O non-unleased both front and rear door speaker wires come from the stock amp on the back wall. B&O unleased the rear doors are powered by the head unit?

Also, Im thinking the same thing about the splicing vs prefab harness. I just put in a sounds good stereo tuned kicker keyloc for an amp and sub, and i used their wiring adapter. I dont really want to get another one.

Im in the same boat as you were. I added a sub to the stock B&O non-unleased and want to balance out the power of the rest of the system. But im not going the Zen route. If i have to do that then im just going to be happy with what i have. $700 is too much just to get started and im no audiophile.

Why didnt you amplify the front doors while you were at it?
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