Is this necessary?

[Bugzuki]

Did you change the setting using Forscan? is that what the .697 change was about or did you do something different. I tired setting mine in but am off by 3mpg

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[fgutz3rd]

Yeah so the circumference of my tires was 2733. So I used Forscan and send into the BYCM and changed it to 2733. Mins you with the 35’s I did the same and I was still 4 miles under so if I was going 75 I was really going 71 and that was for the new tires. I couldn’t understand so I did more research and I found a Forscan post that talked about multiplying your tires circumference x .967 and that was your circumference. So I tried it and for me it was 2733 x .967 = 2642 and I entered that and it worked. I got on the highway and set my cruise to 75mph and the gps speedometer app was right with the speedometer. It would sometimes go down 1 but to me I didn’t mind it going from 75 to 74. I’ve been resting it all day today and it’s been spot on. I’d give it a try bro. Worked for me. I had been searching since I bought my truck. Give a try and let me know if it works. Godspeed brother

 

[Snakebitten]

For running empty, why not do the chalk test and find out what air pressure that actually is front/rear?

Then when towing, you can up the pressure accordingly.

 

[fgutz3rd]

Will you please explain? I do not understand what you mean by running empty and the chalk test?

 

[Snakebitten]

You can youtube "tire chalk test" and get a clear understanding of the technique.
It's often necessary for circumstances like yours where you have changed to tires that render the factory door tag useless.

Theory being that carefully and methodically using the chalk technique you will determine the proper tire pressure for even wear on the out-of-spec tires.

Of course changing the Payload on those tires would require an additional chalk test. With Load E tires I'm guessing that the chalk test pressure would also be enough to meet the load specifications for the tire too?

Here's an example

 

[fgutz3rd]

I really appreciate you and everyone else who took/take the time to research or respond with what they know. I was a military guy since I was 20. Never really got into mechanics. I knew enough to maintain my vehicles. I will definitely look into it. Thank you and God Bless You

 

[Snakebitten]

Wow.
Thanks for the kind words.
But you should know that most of us who are offering information or advice on the forum are in some way in debt to the same forum for helping us.
I know that's absolutely true for me. Immensely so.

A long way of saying it's my pleasure. Sincerely.

 

[fgutz3rd]

Right on man. Just paying it forward is how I’ve found. This forum is all about exploring out trucks and helping each other

 

[sts90]

34’s on 3.73 gears with your 10 speed transmission and level of power the powerboost engine puts out, you are more than fine. Re-gearing is only really a thing on Jeeps, gladiators, 4Runners, tacos, old broncos and some other one that escapes me. This mainly because the engine power is lower and it’s a 8 speed or less plus whole aerodynamics of a box on wheel thing. You could be running 3.31 gears on 34’s and wouldn’t really know. It mostly has to do with unsprung weight aka tires and rims. You will have less acceleration but that degree is a non starter money spent to results wise. Heck I am still debating doing Ford performance kit and 35’s but I liked my 24 mpg on long road trips stock. TFL Truck proved it only drop 1 mpg with that setup. This new generation of f150 are really impressive no matter how you stack it.

 

[fgutz3rd]

Yeah that’s true. I have 30 days with the tires I got and I’m thinking of switching to the same tire but the 295/70/R18 116S. Those tires weigh only 53 pounds. Only because I only tow my Rv a few times a year

 

[fgutz3rd]

34’s on 3.73 gears with your 10 speed transmission and level of power the powerboost engine puts out, you are more than fine. Re-gearing is only really a thing on Jeeps, gladiators, 4Runners, tacos, old broncos and some other one that escapes me. This mainly because the engine power is lower and it’s a 8 speed or less plus whole aerodynamics of a box on wheel thing. You could be running 3.31 gears on 34’s and wouldn’t really know. It mostly has to do with unsprung weight aka tires and rims. You will have less acceleration but that degree is a non starter money spent to results wise. Heck I am still debating doing Ford performance kit and 35’s but I liked my 24 mpg on long road trips stock. TFL Truck proved it only drop 1 mpg with that setup. This new generation of f150 are really impressive no matter how you stack it.

Also my mpg. I’ve yet to see any good mpg. The best I’ve ever got on the highway is 18. Switching the lighter SL tires would definitely get me over the 20 mpg range. Pulse like I said I tow my RV a few times a year. How bad could those SL tires really be towing my 8500 pound EV

 

[Snakebitten]

Won't be a popular suggestion, but with a 1/2 ton, it's nice to have a daily wheel/tire and then a tow wheel/tire package.

Not really necessary if towing isn't a heavy package, or you don't tow long distances. But I would tow all across the western states and be gone for a month or longer. It was worth every penny invested in the wheel/tire (load E) for the prowess it added to long tow days.

 

[fgutz3rd]

Well I do tow my RV it is pretty far. Guess o can’t have my cake and eat it too. I really do like these that I have. Especially with the 3 inch lift. It gives it the perfect wheel gap. Guess I won’t know my exact mileage until I drive really far.

 

[sts90]

Also my mpg. I’ve yet to see any good mpg. The best I’ve ever got on the highway is 18. Switching the lighter SL tires would definitely get me over the 20 mpg range. Pulse like I said I tow my RV a few times a year. How bad could those SL tires really be towing my 8500 pound EV

Maybe. Gearing is about power and responsiveness. With 3.73 gears you will never see economy most people here as 3.31 gears are standard and 3.55 is the most common upgrade. The tremor standard is 3.73 and that is best predictive estimate you can find for your truck. Mpg increase is a byproduct of the engine not working as hard to spin tires. This where tire weight comes in as you found out. If you worried about SL tires don’t be. You don’t even want to know what we do down here because tires are expensive. Best thing you can do is replace your spare tire to a standard tire. If you get under and read, it is a full size spare not for full time use. SL tires will handle the max tow for that truck or it would not have come with them.

 

[fgutz3rd]

Yeah I bought it used and it originally came with 275/65/18 AT tires. I presume they were SL. I bought the truck used with the 3 inch lift and the heavy 35’s. I switched to 295/70/18 AT that weigh 64 in comparison to 69. I have 30 days to see if I like them. So far I do because it rides smoother and quieter. They tried to offer me the same tire but the SL’s which weigh 53 but I was concerned about when I tow my RV long distance.

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