Ignition won’t stay on, need help BAD

[Erikp]

Hey guys. Back at it again, finally got the truck in my driveway again and holy crap is there a lot going on. I really don’t know where to start. I am waiting for a mongoose cable so I can begin using FDRS, but I’ve been using forscan to see what’s communicating and reading faults.

edited to add a little back story. Truck randomly died camping. Ignition switch did nothing and no BCM functions worked. Towed to dealer and they replaced BCM. Everything was working as they were doing the BCM PMI, but it failed and now it’s even worse off. After a bunch of nothing, poor service and whatever, I towed it home to have a look myself before I send it to my local dealer.

Modules not communicating or dead
APIM
SODR
SODL
DSP
OCS
CCM
TCU
PDM
DDM
RCM
GSM
IPMA
DCACA

Only modules not reporting faults or “error”
ATCM
TCCM
RTM
HVAC
PSCM
BCMC

all other modules report communication faults with various random modules. The biggest issue that I can’t seem to get over is the random no key detection, and the ignition just turning off. I keep getting the ignition to turn on, tons of faults on dash, resetting them does nothing, they come back etc. ignition turns off at random, might be 10 seconds, might be 5 minutes. When it does turn off it’s just like you pressed the button. It does the full shutdown procedure.

battery is brand new AGM from ford 2 hours ago. I need the ignition to stay on so I can continue with troubleshooting.

any help?

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[Gros Ventre]

Mistake #1 - a Ford battery...

 

[Erikp]

Mistake #1 - a Ford battery...

Yeah I really don’t think the issue is because I put a brand new ford battery into my ford pickup.

thanks though.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Yeah I really don’t think the issue is because I put a brand new ford battery into my ford pickup.

thanks though.

Every time I have seen people on here have a problem that was electrical... there was a Ford battery involved. In my case, I had some problems at the 4 month point that disappeared when a new, non-Ford battery was put in about 2 1/2 years ago. That pattern seems to apply to most, maybe all. The issue for you isn't a new battery it is a new-Ford battery...

 

[Gord0]

If you're going to be doing any sort of programming you'll want a charger that will operate in power supply mode. 20 amp would be best. You'll drain that new battery in no time. This is the recommended one around here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ESQW08?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[Erikp]

If you're going to be doing any sort of programming you'll want a charger that will operate in power supply mode. 20 amp would be best. You'll drain that new battery in no time. This is the recommended one around here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ESQW08?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I’m not ready to program. I have a battery charger. I need help getting the ignition to even stay on.

 

[Gord0]

I should have phrased that better. If you are key on engine off for much time at all you'll drain a new battery fast.

 

[Severdog]

Is this a PowerBoost engine? If so, have you checked aux battery under rear seat?

If not, can you monitor the 12V bus voltage when you turn on the key? Sounds like it's dropping below threshold.

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