2024 Ford F150 4X4 Leveled on 35’s

[wilmcb]

Hello - I recently purchased a new 2024 Ford F150 XLT 4X4 and wanted to fit 35” tires on aftermarket wheels with a leveling kit, without having to worry about clearance issues. So after tons of research, I made it happen and am very happy with the results. While doing my research, I saw tons of mixed reviews, with the majority of people saying that you couldn’t fit 35’s on an aftermarket wheel with a level. So I’m hoping this post will clear some things up and will help some of y’all with your decisions!

Parts/Specs:
35x11.50r17 Toyo Open Country ATIII
Method MR318 17x8.5 25mm offset
MaxTrac 2.5” Leveling Strut Spacers
Rough Country 3” UCAs

Tires:
From what I’ve researched, you’ll want to run a 35x11.50 rather than a 35x12.50 wide tire to help reduce the chance of rubbing when you’re turning the wheels. So, I went with the Toyo Open Country AT3 35x11.50r17 for my build. Something to keep in mind, which is one of the reasons I chose the Toyos, is that each tire generally has a different “Inflated Diameter” than the 35” you’d expect. For example, the Toyos run a bit small, with a 34.5” inflated diameter, whereas something like a Nitto grappler actually run a bit bigger. So, just keep this in mind when you’re choosing the tires for your build, as bigger or smaller variance in the tire size can help you achieve clearance with 35s.

Wheels:
I chose the Method MR318 with a +25mm offset for my build. I’ve seen a lot of evidence showing you can run 35x11.50 tires on a stock +44mm offset wheel on a leveled F150 with no issues. So, I went with the more positive offering for wheels to keep it closer to what I knew would clear, as the further negative you go, the more inclined you are to rubbing issues on the crash bars and valance. So, in my opinion, keep your wheel selection in the positive range unless you are fine with making some modifications for fitment for sure. The +25 offset gave me a flush/ slightly outside stance maybe

Leveling:
You need a 2”+ level in order to give your truck the height in the front needed to fit the bigger tires. I’m sure any leveling kit will do. I opted to add some Rough a country 3” max UCAs to help my angles out, but this didn’t necessary give me any more clearance for my build, so not needed to fit the tires. If you go over 2” lift in the front, sometimes your angles can get a bit steep and so it’s completely personal preference to take this approach.

Year:
2021 and newer F150s have more room to fit bigger tires, so if you have a 21+ and follow the above tips, you should be just fine. If you have a 20 and older, it’s not much of a difference, but definitely favor the smaller 35’s and a more positive offset to help. I have a buddy that just put 35x11.50 Falken AT on his 2020 4x4 F150 on stock wheels, and zero issues with about 2” of space.

Installment:
So after I got all my parts and such picked out, I had a local shop install everything. There were NO ISSUES with rubbing or clearance after installment and NO MODIFICATIONS, TRIMMING, ETC. there was about an inch clearance at the closest point of contact. Now, we went ahead and took a hammer and punched the crash bars (front and back) a little bit to give some more wiggle room. This is NOT NEEDED to clear at all, but I did it just to reduce rubbing if I’m compressed and at full lock, and because doing these minor things cause no harm to the integrity of your truck. For all those worries about a little plastic trimming inside the wells, it’s not going to do any harm, and you will never notice 2” of plastic flap that was trimmed if you ever needed to.

Really hope this helps y’all out and gives you the information you need to make the decision that makes you happy!

Sponsored

 

[StoneGray22]

Looks great! Thanks for posting.

 

[Winston]

So I did a ground to wheel well measurement with the center point aligned with the center caps. I came up with a 2.5” difference between front and rear. I’m about to order a set of 2.5” blocks but aince you put a 3” block on your front, does it sit a little higher than the rear or did it even out?

 

[Aliass24]

Nice, any pics of how close the tire gets to making contact at any point in the wheel wells.

 

[VTR_16]

Nice and clean setup! Excellent work thinking it all out and making it work the way you wanted.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

Looks great! I love the stance......I'm not personally into the "brodozer" look either. I'd say you got the offset perfect.

I ordered a +18 offset with 295/70/18's. I would have loved to run 17's but didn't want to cut it to close since I have max tow. I'll be trying to get away with about one inch of lift on the Eibach coilovers. I'd like to get close to level since I removed the rear blocks.

Hard to tell since your pictures were at dusk......but it looks like you have white or space grey. When I saw a space grey in person, I almost bought a new Lariat, instead of the used Kodiak brown King Ranch I had showed up for. That would have looked so nice........but cost me an extra 30K.

 

[SilverSpur]

Just some Inf. A piece math for lifting trucks of any height is for every inch lifted the drive shaft should be lengthened an inch. I used this math for most of my builds up to 8 inch's. It was for my last build where I put 17x44X15 groundhogs on a 74. It just helps with the drive shaft slide yoke front and rear drive shafts.

 

[wilmcb]

So I did a ground to wheel well measurement with the center point aligned with the center caps. I came up with a 2.5” difference between front and rear. I’m about to order a set of 2.5” blocks but aince you put a 3” block on your front, does it sit a little higher than the rear or did it even out?

Hey Winston, I used a 2.5” pick style strut spacer. The UCA’s I got are for max 3” lift. This just allowed me to get better angles on my joints and allows me to have a bit more leverage, but does not raise the truck any more or less. 2.5” should be the right number for around level.

 

[wilmcb]

Looks great! I love the stance......I'm not personally into the "brodozer" look either. I'd say you got the offset perfect.

I ordered a +18 offset with 295/70/18's. I would have loved to run 17's but didn't want to cut it to close since I have max tow. I'll be trying to get away with about one inch of lift on the Eibach coilovers. I'd like to get close to level since I removed the rear blocks.

Hard to tell since your pictures were at dusk......but it looks like you have white or space grey. When I saw a space grey in person, I almost bought a new Lariat, instead of the used Kodiak brown King Ranch I had showed up for. That would have looked so nice........but cost me an extra 30K.

Mine is Avalanche Grey ?

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

Mine is Avalanche Grey ?

Just looked it up, and Avalanche is definitely the color of the Lariat I saw. It looks awesome, nicely done!

I'm not sure where I remember the space grey from.

 

[MKhammer]

Very nice 2024 Lariat you have and I like the mods, it looks great.
I ordered a 2024 F150 STX FX4 and took delivery 2 mo. ago. It comes an inch taller than a 2024 F150 4x4 without the FX4 package and come standard with more of a street tire on the 4x4 model than my FX4. But we need to get our trucks where it works for what we are using it for.
I tow a fishing boat and drive mountain roads to get to my favorite fishing lake. I made one trip without any modifications to my truck and I experienced a lot of body roll, on the twisty turns, It felt like work even driving slow staying in lane with understeer. I decided I needed improvement so I went with a more conservative route.
I felt I didn't want to raise my truck too much so it wouldn't be too top heavy and raise the center of gravity that would defeat my purpose of mods. Everyone has different needs for how they use their truck so this is what I did.
I first contacted Hellwig about a rear sway bar stabilizer, They first said they did not know if it would fit on my 2024 STX FX4 with the factory dual exhaust. So I got under my truck and hung a plumb bob from the passenger side hole where the sway bar mounts and measured 1-1/8" to the muffler. I sent the pic to Kevin at Hellwig, then he confirmed there is enough room, super helpful guy. so I bought the sway bar and installed it what a difference it made.

My next mod I bought a 2" readylift leveling spacer kit. I had my dealer install it and align my truck, they made sure my headlights were adjusted and it did not affect the lane keeping sensors. I do not have blue cruise.
I am running my stock rims and General AT tires which are 32.5 tall and it ended up 41" from ground to top of rear fender well and settled to 40-1/2" in the front. I was expecting an inch of rake but got 1/2" which looks great.
My truck rides incredibly smooth and it handles incredibly precise , I couldn't be happier the way it turned out. it's better than the stock ride without changing the shocks. I can go up to 33" tires when I wear these out.

I included a pic where a GMC and a Chevy parked by me, The Ford Just out classes them

 

[Graygoose2021]

Beautiful build!!

 

[Ford Motor Company]

Hello - I recently purchased a new 2024 Ford F150 XLT 4X4 and wanted to fit 35” tires on aftermarket wheels with a leveling kit, without having to worry about clearance issues. So after tons of research, I made it happen and am very happy with the results. While doing my research, I saw tons of mixed reviews, with the majority of people saying that you couldn’t fit 35’s on an aftermarket wheel with a level. So I’m hoping this post will clear some things up and will help some of y’all with your decisions!

Parts/Specs:
35x11.50r17 Toyo Open Country ATIII
Method MR318 17x8.5 25mm offset
MaxTrac 2.5” Leveling Strut Spacers
Rough Country 3” UCAs

Tires:
From what I’ve researched, you’ll want to run a 35x11.50 rather than a 35x12.50 wide tire to help reduce the chance of rubbing when you’re turning the wheels. So, I went with the Toyo Open Country AT3 35x11.50r17 for my build. Something to keep in mind, which is one of the reasons I chose the Toyos, is that each tire generally has a different “Inflated Diameter” than the 35” you’d expect. For example, the Toyos run a bit small, with a 34.5” inflated diameter, whereas something like a Nitto grappler actually run a bit bigger. So, just keep this in mind when you’re choosing the tires for your build, as bigger or smaller variance in the tire size can help you achieve clearance with 35s.

Wheels:
I chose the Method MR318 with a +25mm offset for my build. I’ve seen a lot of evidence showing you can run 35x11.50 tires on a stock +44mm offset wheel on a leveled F150 with no issues. So, I went with the more positive offering for wheels to keep it closer to what I knew would clear, as the further negative you go, the more inclined you are to rubbing issues on the crash bars and valance. So, in my opinion, keep your wheel selection in the positive range unless you are fine with making some modifications for fitment for sure. The +25 offset gave me a flush/ slightly outside stance maybe

Leveling:
You need a 2”+ level in order to give your truck the height in the front needed to fit the bigger tires. I’m sure any leveling kit will do. I opted to add some Rough a country 3” max UCAs to help my angles out, but this didn’t necessary give me any more clearance for my build, so not needed to fit the tires. If you go over 2” lift in the front, sometimes your angles can get a bit steep and so it’s completely personal preference to take this approach.

Year:
2021 and newer F150s have more room to fit bigger tires, so if you have a 21+ and follow the above tips, you should be just fine. If you have a 20 and older, it’s not much of a difference, but definitely favor the smaller 35’s and a more positive offset to help. I have a buddy that just put 35x11.50 Falken AT on his 2020 4x4 F150 on stock wheels, and zero issues with about 2” of space.

Installment:
So after I got all my parts and such picked out, I had a local shop install everything. There were NO ISSUES with rubbing or clearance after installment and NO MODIFICATIONS, TRIMMING, ETC. there was about an inch clearance at the closest point of contact. Now, we went ahead and took a hammer and punched the crash bars (front and back) a little bit to give some more wiggle room. This is NOT NEEDED to clear at all, but I did it just to reduce rubbing if I’m compressed and at full lock, and because doing these minor things cause no harm to the integrity of your truck. For all those worries about a little plastic trimming inside the wells, it’s not going to do any harm, and you will never notice 2” of plastic flap that was trimmed if you ever needed to.

Really hope this helps y’all out and gives you the information you need to make the decision that makes you happy!

Loving the setup on your F-150! The wheels look awesome! Thanks for sharing.

 

[ThumperF150]

Just got my tires mounted.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

Just got my tires mounted.

Looking good, Rich! Thanks for sharing with the forum. We hope you are enjoying your F-150.

Sponsored