2025 F-150 Tremor 5.0L V8 - Recommended Service Intervals?

[jkosh22]

No need to run a fuel additive. Top tier gas and ethanol will keep the fuel system squeaky clean. Since the switch to lower sulfur gasoline a decade ago I've torn apart countless induction systems and the insides of the high pressure pump and injector tips were clean as new. These were mainly abused fleet vehicles running the cheapest co-op gas to give you an idea.

Any oil with a GM Dexos 1 Gen 3 license is fine. I always run those because on the surface it's "better" than the Ford spec and at very least the Dexos scheme does have 3rd party verification of the formulation as standard. Ford's spec can be claimed by anyone and no one verifies it. Beware of "boutique" oils. Not that they may wreck your engine, but they rarely if ever participate in compliance audits so you never know what you're getting. I've personally ran nothing but Super Tech 5w30 in my last 2 F150s with zero issues. Saves a boatload DIY when name brands are more than $10/5qt more expensive.

Don't change your air filter when you change the oil. Just tap it out. Change it at 25k if it's really dusty.

Change the transmission filter and fluid at 50K if you tow or do a lot of city driving. Highway driving 75K is fine. Transmission fluid turns dark fairly quick and color isn't a reliable indicator anymore. I'd change the transfer case fluid at 25k if you have 4A or do it when you change the transmission fluid if you don't. They don't take the same fluid just FYI. Any Dexron/Mercon LV type will work in the transfer case. Dexron 6 is the GM equivalent to Ford's Mercon LV. Transmission can take either Dexron ULV or Mercon ULV. It's the exact same fluid from ConocoPhilips. Valvoline was making a ULV that may still be available if you can find it cheaper. Again avoid the boutique fluids like amsoil because there's no 3rd party verification of anything they claim so you're SOL if something happens.

Don't bother touching the plugs until 100K and I personally wouldn't touch the cooling system until 150K. Newer coolants are much better than in years past. Likewise don't bother touching the brake fluid. If you really want you can get a tester to test for moisture content, but I've never seen brake fluid go bad in a street driven vehicle that wasn't sitting behind grandma's shed for 20 years first. You ain't gonna be boiling it in an F150.

Agreed. We test every vehicle that comes into shop and I’d say 8/10 they all pass coolant and brake fluid tests. Unless it’s a Honda, then is always fails brake fluid tests. If you physically test the fluid and it passes. Let it go. Easy peasy.

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[Blown F-150]

That's really close to my change methodologies. I tow pretty often, so do 3000mile OCI's.

I'm at 58k miles and will be swapping in a Torsen, so I was going to tackle all other driveline fluids while I'm there. Just doing a spill and fill for the trans (with filter replacement).

 

[Henfield]

I'd go with 10k intervals for the Cabin and Engine air filters.
I would move the Diffs and Transfer case to 50k, just so they don't drop at the same time as the ATF fluid and filter change. Before my next one of those, I'm getting a PPE unit for the transmission. That way I can do a drain and refil, without a filter change and get more fluid....

 

[J3TL4G]

No need to run a fuel additive. Top tier gas and ethanol will keep the fuel system squeaky clean. Since the switch to lower sulfur gasoline a decade ago I've torn apart countless induction systems and the insides of the high pressure pump and injector tips were clean as new. These were mainly abused fleet vehicles running the cheapest co-op gas to give you an idea.

Any oil with a GM Dexos 1 Gen 3 license is fine. I always run those because on the surface it's "better" than the Ford spec and at very least the Dexos scheme does have 3rd party verification of the formulation as standard. Ford's spec can be claimed by anyone and no one verifies it. Beware of "boutique" oils. Not that they may wreck your engine, but they rarely if ever participate in compliance audits so you never know what you're getting. I've personally ran nothing but Super Tech 5w30 in my last 2 F150s with zero issues. Saves a boatload DIY when name brands are more than $10/5qt more expensive.

Don't change your air filter when you change the oil. Just tap it out. Change it at 25k if it's really dusty.

Change the transmission filter and fluid at 50K if you tow or do a lot of city driving. Highway driving 75K is fine. Transmission fluid turns dark fairly quick and color isn't a reliable indicator anymore. I'd change the transfer case fluid at 25k if you have 4A or do it when you change the transmission fluid if you don't. They don't take the same fluid just FYI. Any Dexron/Mercon LV type will work in the transfer case. Dexron 6 is the GM equivalent to Ford's Mercon LV. Transmission can take either Dexron ULV or Mercon ULV. It's the exact same fluid from ConocoPhilips. Valvoline was making a ULV that may still be available if you can find it cheaper. Again avoid the boutique fluids like amsoil because there's no 3rd party verification of anything they claim so you're SOL if something happens.

Don't bother touching the plugs until 100K and I personally wouldn't touch the cooling system until 150K. Newer coolants are much better than in years past. Likewise don't bother touching the brake fluid. If you really want you can get a tester to test for moisture content, but I've never seen brake fluid go bad in a street driven vehicle that wasn't sitting behind grandma's shed for 20 years first. You ain't gonna be boiling it in an F150.

Unfortunately, I live a little ways out and the only gas station close to me is not top tier fuel. I figure the Amsoil P.I. is dirt cheap so I'll do it. I try to get top tier fuel when I can.

I really like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and it seems to be highly recommended by The Motor Oil Geek. I'm not too concerned about saving the money over some of the other options. That said, I'm sure the reality is as long as you are changing the oil frequently it probably doesn't matter that much.

Plugs at 100K seems pretty reasonable. I've got them at 60K, which I think is what Ford recommends, but maybe that is overkill.

All the other fluids will be done by a shop or dealer. If I had a lift I'd do it myself in a heartbeat, but my guess is doing this on the ground would be a total nightmare.

I'm actually surprised to hear coolant at 150K. Especially in the AZ summers, I'm sure it is hard on coolant.

 

[J3TL4G]

I'd go with 10k intervals for the Cabin and Engine air filters.
I would move the Diffs and Transfer case to 50k, just so they don't drop at the same time as the ATF fluid and filter change. Before my next one of those, I'm getting a PPE unit for the transmission. That way I can do a drain and refil, without a filter change and get more fluid....

Yea maybe I will get one of those PPE transmission pans. Not too expensive and probably makes the job a lot easier.

 

[XLT22]

Unfortunately, I live a little ways out and the only gas station close to me is not top tier fuel. I figure the Amsoil P.I. is dirt cheap so I'll do it. I try to get top tier fuel when I can.

I really like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and it seems to be highly recommended by The Motor Oil Geek. I'm not too concerned about saving the money over some of the other options. That said, I'm sure the reality is as long as you are changing the oil frequently it probably doesn't matter that much.

Plugs at 100K seems pretty reasonable. I've got them at 60K, which I think is what Ford recommends, but maybe that is overkill.

All the other fluids will be done by a shop or dealer. If I had a lift I'd do it myself in a heartbeat, but my guess is doing this on the ground would be a total nightmare.

I'm actually surprised to hear coolant at 150K. Especially in the AZ summers, I'm sure it is hard on coolant.

These trucks (and most vehicles for a decade plus) aren't bothered by Arizona heat. The cooling modules are validated in Death Valley conditions (hot and low density altitude) and high desert conditions (hot and thin air) loaded to gross. Problems usually only arise once the systems get significant age and start having component failures.

 

[darkblue13]

Sounds good.
I do transfer case every 15-20k. Everything goes through transfer case whether in 4x4 or not. It’s short money too. I did tranny at 25k with filter and new pan with drain plug then every 50k

 

[J3TL4G]

Thanks for all the help guys!

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