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Way2qk4u2c

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Do you know if there is any learning/programming that needs to be done in regard to the key fob antenna when switching cup holder assemblies? I got the complete assembly with lights and antenna pre-installed. While I have it apart, it would be quite simple to swap the "old" antenna onto the new cupholder assembly if need be.
I didn’t swap the antenna just used the one that came with the cup holder assembly.
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sippy2

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I just ordered and received ML3Z-1513562-CB full cup holder assembly
from OEMpartssource and it does NOT have the lights....just an FYI...it was in an opened package...so I'm thinking it was a return from someone. I will report back on the return process.

Anyone have an idea how to make sure I get the right one next time?

Thanks for any help.
 
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JHForman812

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I just ordered and received ML3Z-1513562-CB full cup holder assembly
from OEMpartssource and it does NOT have the lights....just an FYI...it was in an opened package...so I'm thinking it was a return from someone. I will report back on the return process.

Anyone have an idea how to make sure I get the right one next time?

Thanks for any help.
Unfortunately there’s no way to make sure. You gotta order it and hope it comes complete if it doesn’t send it back and try again
 

Kodiak

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I just ordered and received ML3Z-1513562-CB full cup holder assembly
from OEMpartssource and it does NOT have the lights....just an FYI...it was in an opened package...so I'm thinking it was a return from someone. I will report back on the return process.

Anyone have an idea how to make sure I get the right one next time?

Thanks for any help.
I just ordered that same part number from Village Ford Parts (Dearborn Michigan) and it came with the lights. I did not enter in any truck information. I skipped all the truck info and just went with the part number and that worked about 2 weeks ago. Good luck.
 
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scott011422

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I was looking at a video of a night time walkaround of a 2021 King Ranch. The lower door pockets WERE lit. But on the front doors only. I also found it surprising that the rear doors were not lit at all and neither were the floorboards. Only the lights on the center console. On my 2022 Lariat the top pockets on the rear doors are lit, the back underside of the front seats and the center console.
 

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A member further up the page said he found it faster and easier to unbolt the console and slide it back. so might be a better/faster option.
I just finished my install, had no problem sliding the console back until I realized the JHF harnesses are a bit short for my installation technique. I had to maneuver a bit to get enough slack in the wires,.. no big deal!
 
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JHForman812

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I just finished my install, had no problem sliding the console back until I realized the JHF harnesses are a bit short for my installation technique. I had to maneuver a bit to get enough slack in the wires,.. no big deal!
yours was the double light setup on the glove box right ? How short was it? I’ve only built 2 of those so I don’t have the length down to a science on those.
 

Vw64guy

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yours was the double light setup on the glove box right ? How short was it? I’ve only built 2 of those so I don’t have the length down to a science on those.
The 2-wire harness with upper glove box connector is perfect, slightly long which gives options for routing.

The 3-wire to power the cup holder from the passenger foot well was slightly short because I chose to slide my center console back instead of y'all preferred method of removing the climate control section of the dash. Don't change anything on you harnesses, they worked great.
 
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JHForman812

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The 2-wire harness with upper glove box connector is perfect, slightly long which gives options for routing.

The 3-wire to power the cup holder from the passenger foot well was slightly short because I chose to slide my center console back instead of y'all preferred method of removing the climate control section of the dash. Don't change anything on you harnesses, they worked great.
Ah ok thank I was concerned lol
 

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The 2-wire harness with upper glove box connector is perfect, slightly long which gives options for routing.

The 3-wire to power the cup holder from the passenger foot well was slightly short because I chose to slide my center console back instead of y'all preferred method of removing the climate control section of the dash. Don't change anything on you harnesses, they worked great.
PXL_20220709_000834625.webp

[/QUOTE]
I just finished my install, had no problem sliding the console back until I realized the JHF harnesses are a bit short for my installation technique. I had to maneuver a bit to get enough slack in the wires,.. no big deal!
So I’m curious, when you slide the whole console back, there’s only harnesses that need to be detached in order to do that and no hard cables/rods since everything is electronic?-correct.
I don’t have my truck just yet but I’m anxious to see how that’s gonna work. Seems like it be easier than taking the whole front HVAC panel off. Thanks
 

Vw64guy

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So I’m curious, when you slide the whole console back, there’s only harnesses that need to be detached in order to do that and no hard cables/rods since everything is electronic?-correct.
I don’t have my truck just yet but I’m anxious to see how that’s gonna work. Seems like it be easier than taking the whole front HVAC panel off. Thanks
[/QUOTE]
Bottom Line Up Front, Yes, completely shift-by-wire, no cables. The console is connected via the Grey harness on passenger side and a USB connector on driver side. That's It. The rear climate vents goes into a funnel for easy reassembly.
My opinion: it's way easy to slide the center console back. I'll do my best to express with words. There are plastic beauty pieces you have to pull off first. That'll expose the bolts. (2) bolts that attach to the firewall and (4) along the base of the console. Unplug the harnesses and slide the whole thing back... Picture shows it pulled back about 8". This is why my harness was more difficult to connect. I had to slide the console forward while routing the wires through the dash. Ideally, I would incorporate another quick disconnect adjacent to the factory grey connector but I don't want to give JHForman any more hassle. He already did a solid job. ;)

Ford F-150 Cup holder light installation / media bin light / glove box light / ambient lighting change PXL_20220619_042205161.MP
 

Papaw2018

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So I’m curious, when you slide the whole console back, there’s only harnesses that need to be detached in order to do that and no hard cables/rods since everything is electronic?-correct.
I don’t have my truck just yet but I’m anxious to see how that’s gonna work. Seems like it be easier than taking the whole front HVAC panel off. Thanks
Bottom Line Up Front, Yes, completely shift-by-wire, no cables. The console is connected via the Grey harness on passenger side and a USB connector on driver side. That's It. The rear climate vents goes into a funnel for easy reassembly.
My opinion: it's way easy to slide the center console back. I'll do my best to express with words. There are plastic beauty pieces you have to pull off first. That'll expose the bolts. (2) bolts that attach to the firewall and (4) along the base of the console. Unplug the harnesses and slide the whole thing back... Picture shows it pulled back about 8". This is why my harness was more difficult to connect. I had to slide the console forward while routing the wires through the dash. Ideally, I would incorporate another quick disconnect adjacent to the factory grey connector but I don't want to give JHForman any more hassle. He already did a solid job. ;)

PXL_20220619_042205161.MP.jpg

[/QUOTE]
Thank you, this will be a huge help later for me and possibly others.
 

Kodiak

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So I’m curious, when you slide the whole console back, there’s only harnesses that need to be detached in order to do that and no hard cables/rods since everything is electronic?-correct.
I don’t have my truck just yet but I’m anxious to see how that’s gonna work. Seems like it be easier than taking the whole front HVAC panel off. Thanks
Bottom Line Up Front, Yes, completely shift-by-wire, no cables. The console is connected via the Grey harness on passenger side and a USB connector on driver side. That's It. The rear climate vents goes into a funnel for easy reassembly.
My opinion: it's way easy to slide the center console back. I'll do my best to express with words. There are plastic beauty pieces you have to pull off first. That'll expose the bolts. (2) bolts that attach to the firewall and (4) along the base of the console. Unplug the harnesses and slide the whole thing back... Picture shows it pulled back about 8". This is why my harness was more difficult to connect. I had to slide the console forward while routing the wires through the dash. Ideally, I would incorporate another quick disconnect adjacent to the factory grey connector but I don't want to give JHForman any more hassle. He already did a solid job. ;)

PXL_20220619_042205161.MP.webp

[/QUOTE]


This looks like an easy way to add the media light too. Did you look at that when you had it apart?

Also, if you go this route how much longer would the wire need to be to make it a little easier on your install?

Thanks so much for posting this write up and picture.
 
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MonsterTrucker75

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as an alternative, you might consider sliding the arm rest console back. You can find (4) 10mm bolts along the base, you'll have to position the seats all the way forward then all the way back to access them, and then there are 2 more 10mm bolts against the firewall. The entire console will then slide straight back after detaching the wiring harnesses.
I've been stalling this ordeal for months now, partially, due to time restraints, but pondering about a workaround that dodges the removal of the center plastic trim above the HVAC controls just below the screen. (Looking to do the less removal possible.)

I am assuming that the only plastic trim pieces you removed are the ones located under the center plastic trims on each side of the center console correct? What was your angle here? Where did you start from, and was the removal just as nerve-wrecking as the common approach most others have executed?
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