Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible)

[Snakebitten]

One thing for sure is that 360 camera, AND things like proximity alerts (or whatever Ford calls it), I as a driver have everything I could possibly need to WATCH (literally) what I am doing.

If this truck was dead silent, I mean didn't make a sound beyond the tires rolling on the surface material, pedestrians have never been safer with me behind the wheel.

I noticed a few days ago while backing up in the barn that the sensors gave both the red color alert and the Audible severe alert for a small bag of sand laying flat on the floor. The truck couldn't possibly come into contact with it, although I suppose I could have touched it with my tire.

But in the real world that tells me that a person could fall asleep behind my truck and be lying prone and I would know it from the driver's chair.

Up until recently, that would be science fiction technology.

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[Kliza]

The backup alarm didn't bother me half as much as as the airplane sounds it makes at low speed around town. Its way louder than it needs to be IMO. I'll just deal with clearing the warning at startup until I can get the parts together to bypass it.

My wife says the sound my truck makes is the same as a Texas mosquito sprayer truck.

 

[WillB17]

Does anyone know who makes the connector and has a part number? Not looking for a Ford part number, Ford doesn't make the connectors. For example, molex or Aptiv, etc?

Update: Found the OEM connector manufacturer. It's a Molex MX150, part number is 346750002 and the terminals can be found here: MX150 Blade Terminals or use part number 340800001 for 14-16 gauge wire.

I ordered enough of these to build a few delete plugs so please DM if you don't want to build one yourself.

 

[kman67]

Figured I'd put this into a new thread just for visibility. I know many have wanted to disable the pedestrian sounder (The device making the "groaning" fake engine sound as well as the backup alarm) on the PowerBoost. Full credit goes to PeteRit's post here, I just made some directions for anyone who would like to give it a try themselves.

Obligatory Disclaimer: The pedestrian sounder is obviously a safety device, and is there for a reason. Any modifications you do to your truck are entirely your own responsibility.

With that out of the way, here's the relatively simple process of bypassing the sounder. The best part of this workaround is it's barely 5 minutes to revert the change and put everything back as it was from the factory if you ever need to.

What's needed:
- Tailgate delete connector (Look in your glovebox for the bag of connectors, we're going to use one of them)
- 1x 25w 4ohm Resistor (This will work)
- 2x 1.5mm male connector pins (This kit should work. Has a lot more than you need, but is cheap enough and may come in handy later, I'm sure you could get just the pins somewhere else for cheaper if you wanted.)
- Some scrap 18-20AWG wire (Around 6-8" is all you should need)
- Some shrink tube or tape to seal things up
- A soldering iron

Assemble the bypass device:
- Crimp/solder your two pins to some wire and insert them the connector (These should snap into place when properly inserted and not want to come back out)
- Solder in the resistor to connect the two leads on your pins, here’s what mine looked like

- Clean everything up a bit by securing it all together, I used some shrink tube and will probably add some additional protection later to waterproof it better

Install the bypass device:
- Disconnect your sounder module and plug your resistor setup into the harness that came off of the module
- I’d recommend covering up the connector on the module to keep it clean for potential future use and securing your new connector somewhere so it’s not just dangling around
- You're all done - the sounder will now be completely eliminated and no codes/lights should be present at all. In the event you ever need to put things back, all you need to do is unplug your "bypass device" and plug the sounder back in. No factory wiring is modified at all.

Figured I'd put this into a new thread just for visibility. I know many have wanted to disable the pedestrian sounder (The device making the "groaning" fake engine sound as well as the backup alarm) on the PowerBoost. Full credit goes to PeteRit's post here, I just made some directions for anyone who would like to give it a try themselves.

Obligatory Disclaimer: The pedestrian sounder is obviously a safety device, and is there for a reason. Any modifications you do to your truck are entirely your own responsibility.

With that out of the way, here's the relatively simple process of bypassing the sounder. The best part of this workaround is it's barely 5 minutes to revert the change and put everything back as it was from the factory if you ever need to.

What's needed:
- Tailgate delete connector (Look in your glovebox for the bag of connectors, we're going to use one of them)
- 1x 25w 4ohm Resistor (This will work)
- 2x 1.5mm male connector pins (This kit should work. Has a lot more than you need, but is cheap enough and may come in handy later, I'm sure you could get just the pins somewhere else for cheaper if you wanted.)
- Some scrap 18-20AWG wire (Around 6-8" is all you should need)
- Some shrink tube or tape to seal things up
- A soldering iron

Assemble the bypass device:
- Crimp/solder your two pins to some wire and insert them the connector (These should snap into place when properly inserted and not want to come back out)
- Solder in the resistor to connect the two leads on your pins, here’s what mine looked like

- Clean everything up a bit by securing it all together, I used some shrink tube and will probably add some additional protection later to waterproof it better

Install the bypass device:
- Disconnect your sounder module and plug your resistor setup into the harness that came off of the module
- I’d recommend covering up the connector on the module to keep it clean for potential future use and securing your new connector somewhere so it’s not just dangling around
- You're all done - the sounder will now be completely eliminated and no codes/lights should be present at all. In the event you ever need to put things back, all you need to do is unplug your "bypass device" and plug the sounder back in. No factory wiring is modified at all.

I just did this mod today and it works great!!! Thank you xtraman122

 

[WillB17]

Another thing for those attempting this: I have noticed a lot of people breaking connectors. It is a hard to unplug due to location, but there is a locking mechanism at the top of the connector. Make sure to press this down and pull on the connector and it will come off a lot easier. See attached.

 

[WillB17]

These have been flying off the shelf, I will have more made up this week if you wish to get one. These are all handmade, double soldered joints for strength, marine SAE wire, and marine shrink tube that has a built in waterproofing sealant. These also include the correct locking pins as the ones the OP posted are not actually designed for this housing and will not stay in place. I am also using wire seals as well, as the connector itself does not have self sealing capabilities. PM me if you want to get your hands on one.

 

[Kliza]

Has any one tried this fix for the backup (rear) sounder?

 

[cool rod]

These have been flying off the shelf, I will have more made up this week if you wish to get one. These are all handmade, double soldered joints for strength, marine SAE wire, and marine shrink tube that has a built in waterproofing sealant. These also include the correct locking pins as the ones the OP posted are not actually designed for this housing and will not stay in place. I am also using wire seals as well, as the connector itself does not have self sealing capabilities. PM me if you want to get your hands on one.

These have been flying off the shelf, I will have more made up this week if you wish to get one. These are all handmade, double soldered joints for strength, marine SAE wire, and marine shrink tube that has a built in waterproofing sealant. These also include the correct locking pins as the ones the OP posted are not actually designed for this housing and will not stay in place. I am also using wire seals as well, as the connector itself does not have self sealing capabilities. PM me if you want to get your hands on one.

Will I'd like to get one of these but I can't figure out how to send a PM. Can you PM me instead? Thanks

 

[WillB17]

Will I'd like to get one of these but I can't figure out how to send a PM. Can you PM me instead? Thanks

Hey Cool Rod, you can start conversations by clicking on their username first and then clicking start conversation. To check your inbox, look in the upper right hand corner and you will see a little envelop. Click that to access your messages. I have sent you a PM

 

[cool rod]

Hey Cool Rod, you can start conversations by clicking on their username first and then clicking start conversation. To check your inbox, look in the upper right hand corner and you will see a little envelop. Click that to access your messages. I have sent you a PM

OK, done

 

[KevinP]

These have been flying off the shelf, I will have more made up this week if you wish to get one. These are all handmade, double soldered joints for strength, marine SAE wire, and marine shrink tube that has a built in waterproofing sealant. These also include the correct locking pins as the ones the OP posted are not actually designed for this housing and will not stay in place. I am also using wire seals as well, as the connector itself does not have self sealing capabilities. PM me if you want to get your hands on one.

I made a sounder delete with similar parts but I also used a blank female connector with blanking plugs to protect the speaker terminals so that I can put it back to stock when I trade it in.

The 25 watt resistor is prob overkill. I think I got a 20 pack of 3 or 5W resistors for $7. They work perfect with no heat buildup whatsoever. I have a bunch of extra parts and had thought about making these for sale but then thought it could be a slight liability risk and decided not to sell them.

A tip for anyone installing these is to use a right angle pick to push (pull) down on the connector tab while simultaneously using a flathead to push the connector off the speaker. This can be done without removing any other parts and takes about 30 seconds.

 

[xtraman122]

Has any one tried this fix for the backup (rear) sounder?

It’s all coming from the one device, this kills both the backup sound and the fake engine noise.

 

[OleCuss]

If I could, I'd rather have only temporary suppression of the pedestrian alert system. Mostly for special occasions such as when I'm in a wildlife area or in a campground at night.

It appears to be illegal to disable the system if you are a professional entity but it doesn't appear to be illegal if I do it on my own vehicle as a rank amateur.

 

[cool rod]

I did the PALS mod today using WillB17's very well made ?device. What a relief, not having to hear that noise coming from the front of my truck anymore and I hated the look on peoples faces when I rode by making a strange racket. The device works perfectly and the hardest thing about doing the mod is getting the connector off the alert speaker. What a pain!

I probably would have given up if it wasn't for the helpful posts from WillB17 and xtraman122. A big shoutout to xtraman for his tip about using a long flathead screwdriver to depress the locking clip. I tried everything else I could think of but the very tight space around the speaker makes it tough to get in there. The screwdriver from the side takes a little jockeying to get it into place so the flat side of the screwdriver sits on top of the connector but then it doesn't take much effort to depress the clip. Once that was done the connector slides off easily.

To me the screwdriver was the key.

At that point you could leave it like that. The information screen will show this message and there will be several chimes each time you start the truck but that clears with the "OK" button and doesn't reappear until you start the engine again. Leaving it like that is certainly very doable.

If you add the resistor device you'll need to stabilize it so it doesn't dangle and shake so I used a long ziptie and tied it to the frame through a couple of convenient holes. That took a little jiggling to get it into place but it was easy.

I would say this is an easy mod that's hard to do but with the screwdriver it's not so hard. And did I mention how nice it is to drive around with a quiet truck?

 

[WillB17]

I am continually getting parts in and will continue to make these for the community. If you are interested, please send a PM.

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