Two very different ways of TRANSMISSION FLUID Drain / Fill method

[JGDallas]

From all videos watched about swapping transmission fluid (without dropping pan) on our 14th Gens, I have seen two very different styles. Which do you prefer, and why? I am very curious so please detail as well as you wish.

1. Drain 5-6 qts of old fluid and fill same amount of fresh fluid. Drive 20 miles. Then drain 5-6 qts of the old/fresh mix, and fill 5/6 qts of fresh oil. Result about 75% fresh oil in the trans. DONE.

2. Drain 5-6 qts of old fluid and fill same amount of fresh fluid. Start the truck for 20-30 seconds during which roll gears from park to neutral to reverse to drive to reverse to neutral to park. Turn engine off. All this in 20-30 seconds. Then drain another 5-6 qts from the pan, and fill back 5-6 qts fresh oil. Here's the claim: About 20-30 seconds is all it takes for oil from pan to go through the torque converter, then through the cooling lines and return back to the pan. With fresh oil from pan feeding into the torque converter and transmission pushing used oil into the pan. The second drain and fill then causes the transmission theoretically full of fresh oil.

The second method sounds more scientific to me IF
1. Fresh oil from pan is really chasing the old oil out (without mixing) of TC and transmission cooler lines into the pan.
2. As fresh oil is leaving the pan towards the TC, old oil is coming into the pan from the Transmission cooler lines. Isn't oil mixing in the pan before the entire "fresh oil" in pan get to go into the system?

Sponsored

 

[Bugzuki]

I would think there is a lot of oil mixing in the pan and the torque converter. The Torque converter is a large reservoir of sorts so it wouldn't directly pump the old fluid out without mixing some just like the pan. At least of the pan you would probably drain out most of the old fluid and fill with new, so it would stay mostly new until you drained the new back out the second time. It would be nice if you could somehow just run the engine and pump all the fluid out and then refill with fresh.

 

[JGDallas]

That’s a great point.

 

[jkosh22]

As a technician, we have machines that do 1 quart intervals. It removes all fluid in pan and fills up with same amount removed. Than prompts to start the engine and does 1 quart increments. It really varies as some times the hoses don’t get all the way in the pan or the diameter of the tube is different depending upon vehicle. Still I believe it’s only a 75-80% fluid exchange due to temp, pump strength in the machine and the route the fluid flows through the transmission. The f150s are nice with this machine due to dipstick being 4 or 5 inches from the pan. I just suck the pan down, full it and check the dipstick. Regardless, you are still replacing a percentage of the fluid. If you dig in to deep, you’ll drive yourself mad about these things. Been there, done that. Props to you for doing it yourself though.

 

[teamroper60]

The 10R80 has an internal thermostat that doesnt open until something like 180 degrees and closes if temps drop below that. Both of those options are going to allow the temp to drop, so I really dont see either one as a viable way to truly exchange all the old fluid. Certainly it wouldnt be an economical way to do it as it would take several drain/fill events. The real way to get the old fluid out and new in, involves a heated fluid exchanger. Ford dealerships should have one by now, as the aforementioned thermostat has been in Ford transmissions since the introduction of the 5R110 in 2003.

 

[Eighthtry]

The downside to not pulling the pan is the the transmission filter is not changed. Am I overthinking this?

And Hell, as long as I am overthinking, why not Ford put an external transmission filter and make all of this much easier.

 

[JGDallas]

Keep going guys… I can’t afford dealerships, and pretty handy myself with cars. Just trying to understand the best home remedy

 

[jkosh22]

That is correct. Dropping the pan and changing the filter is obviously the best way to do it. But it’s quite a process. Exhaust has to be lowered, heat shield needs to be removed, if you want the most room, you can remove the transmission crossmemeber, there is no drain plug so it can get messy. If you have the time, I’d definately do it. It regularly changing the fluid will do just fine. But at or around 100,000 would be a good idea to pay someone or drop the pan and change it yourself. I’ve done a few in the shop.

 

[JGDallas]

Excellent advise!

 

[jkosh22]

Make sure to use the ULV (ultra low viscosity). It’s in the same exact looking bottle as the LV. Just an fyi! But kuddos to you for doing it yourself. Saving yourself quote a bit of money.

 

[Davexxxx]

Saw this vid in the "Don't Do It" thread.

Helped me climb off the ledge

 

[JGDallas]

Saw this vid in the "Don't Do It" thread.

Helped me climb off the ledge

Damn! That’s quite a video !!

 

[PNWTremor]

I'm due for my first transmission service here in the next 3K miles and will be installing a PPE deep-sump pan for extra fluid (and thermal mass) and better cooling via aluminum. I have an RCI transmission skid plate that blocks a lot of the heat from escaping, and since I'm generously rough on my truck, it's prob smart to service everything early.

My strategy here is to do my first service at 30K which will include a filter change and a fluid change. Using the PPE pan's drain plug, I will replace the fluid every 30K (next @ 60K miles) then
every 60K (next @90K miles) I will drop the pan for a filter.

 

[PNWTremor]

Saw this vid in the "Don't Do It" thread.

Helped me climb off the ledge

This information is only true for whatever the transmission is in this video. At least for the filter in the 10R80 per Ford internal spec and ISO 16889 multi-pass testing by aftermarket labs, the 10R filters have a rated filtration of 10–15 µm nominal, ~25 µm absolute which falls within the range required to remove the particles this "expert" claims your transmission filter will not remove.

The 10R filter (part HL3Z-7A098-B) has 2x partitions, the first being the equivalent of the "screen" this guy is talking about. This removes the larger particles. The second partition is super fine and removes clutch material and metal wear particles. Ford actually did a good job here.

This is terrible advice and I hope none of you take this seriously.

At the very minimum, replace the fluid every 30-50K and replace the filter every 60-100K. I am replacing my filter and fluid at 30K, then every 60K thereon.

 

[Davexxxx]

This information is only true for whatever the transmission is in this video. At least for the filter in the 10R80 per Ford internal spec and ISO 16889 multi-pass testing by aftermarket labs, the 10R filters have a rated filtration of 10–15 µm nominal, ~25 µm absolute which falls within the range required to remove the particles this "expert" claims your transmission filter will not remove.

This is terrible advice and I hope none of you take this seriously.

At the very minimum, replace the fluid every 30-50K and replace the filter every 60-100K.

I'm happy to learn things, so thanks but where does your "at a minimum", come from?

Because I was going through the service schedule for my specific VIN yesterday and found no such spec.

Sponsored